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Wines of the week: 7 sparklers sparkling

Come 1 December, we enter the month of indulgence and there’s no better drink for that than something fizzy, says Terry Kirby. He selects something for every occasion

Terry Kirby
Friday 29 November 2019 15:20 GMT
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Advent, then. And for me, having studiously ignored the avalanche of tinsel-related stuff that has been building up since sometime around the August bank holiday, tomorrow is when the festive season really begins – only now will I allow myself to deck the halls, write the cards, shop till I drop and embark on a month of indulgence and exhaustion, eating and, of course... drinking.

So columns for the next four weeks will then deal with all of those Christmas wines, from party sparklers to serious bottles for special meals.

One of the pleasures of the festive season is the excuse to open a bottle of something fizzy at all times – when friends come for drink, when the family are gathered, when the shopping is all finally done and the presents are wrapped, on Christmas Day morning – a small glass – with some scrambled eggs or on New Year’s Eve, when the chimes strike. So that’s why you need a selection.

For parties or gatherings, when you might be buying six or a dozen – and if you can afford it – it’s worthwhile to pitch just above the £10 level. Here are three suggestions for party sparklers where a little more money will get you a little extra quality: sub-£10 prosecco is generally not worth it, so go for the dry but aromatic Casa Canevel Prosecco Extra Dry (£12.69 allaboutwine.co.uk; £14.15 corkingwines.co.uk).

French cremant, made in various locations around France according to the traditional champagne method, is also a great party-celebration wine and is usually quite dry. It’s also a good time to look around for seasonal discounts, so act quickly and pick up a few bottles of the Calvet Brut Cremant de Bordeaux (£10.00 Tesco.com but 25 per cent discount on six or more until December 2; £9.56 until December 3, normally £11.95 ocado.com) – its fresh and light, made from semillon and cabernet franc, is an ideal party wine and well priced.

(The Independent
(The Independent (The Independent)

What is wonderful now about the UK is we have access to sparkling wines from the around the world. South African sparkling wine is improving in leaps and bounds and the KWV Laborie Blanc de Blancs Brut 2011 (£11.99 amazon.co.uk; £15.95 slurp.co.uk) has a heritage dating back to the first French settlers who planted chardonnay vineyards in the Cape in the 17th century. A brilliant value sparkler, traditionally made, with creamy, nutty flavours, suitable both as an aperitif or with party food and canapes.

Spending a little more? The Petaluma Adelaide Hills Croses NV (£16.95 philglas-swiggot.com; £17.99 noblegrape.co.uk; is a pinot noir-chardonnay blend made in the traditional champagne style but in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia – where the white wines have a lightness of touch not often found elsewhere in Oz. Petaluma is a very reliable name and this is a gorgeous sparkler, with some subtle red fruit amid the citrus and creaminess, suitable for both parties and as an elegant aperitif. If you disguise the label, you might find a few confusing it with the French original.

Speaking of which, when it comes to champagne, there are loads of discounts on the big names in the high street retailers but, if you want to be a little different, look out for lesser known names for wines of excellent quality and value for money. The multi-award winning Champagne Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs (£38.99 allaboutwine.co.uk; £44.50 winedirect.co.uk) is 100 per cent chardonnay, made from grapes from some of the best villages in the region, with intense citrus and clean stone fruit flavours and some characteristic creaminess.

It’s perfect as an aperitif and with smoked salmon or fishy starters. A small, but relatively unknown house is Gimonnet, who specialise in only growing chardonnay for exceptional handcrafted blanc de blancs. Their sublime Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Gastronome 1er Cru 2014 (£43.12 armitwines.co.uk; £49.99 selfridges.com) is made from grapes low in sugar, with smaller bubbles – therefore making it better to accompany food, so it’s ideal paired with scallops, lobster or a main fish course.

Of course, sparkling wine is now one area where the UK excels and there is a massive selection available both on the high street and online. Launched last year to mark the royal wedding, the limited edition Greyfriars Cuvee Royale 2015 (£30.00 greyfriarsvineyard.co.uk; £38.75 bakersandlarners.co.uk) is an individually numbered bottle of chardonnay-pinot noir blend, picked from specially selected plots from a vineyard in North Downs in Surrey – a wonderfully elegant, unashamedly upmarket wine, with complexity, freshness and lovely peach-and-apple fruit flavour. And it’s the wine I hope to open on Christmas Day.

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