Petra guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Jordan’s rose-red ancient city

With thousands of years of history carved into the rocks, the Rose City’s architectural beauty and links to a forgotten past are as beguiling as ever, says Paul Stafford

Ad Deir, or The Monastery, is one of the most-visited monuments in Petra (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

Petra, in southern Jordan, is a love letter to human civilization from a long-lost empire. The Nabataeans, a nomadic Arabic people, began chiselling away at the natural sandstone surroundings around 2,300 years ago, slowly fanning out into the surrounding wadis (“canyons” in Arabic) over the centuries until it contained, it is believed, between 30,000 and 40,000 people. When Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt put it on the archaeological map in 1812, it was a ghost town, following centuries of abandonment.

While much of the city is gone, many of its monumental structures remain, carved straight into the cliffs. It’s a powerful testament to their construction abilities that the buildings most important to the Nabataeans withstood the intervening centuries while so few other civilizations were able to conjure anything quite so magnificent. With that in mind, Petra’s status as a Unesco World Heritage Site as well as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, comes as little surprise.

What to do

Into the wadi

Petra is ‘a rose-red city half as old as time,’ according to a poem by John Burgon (Getty)

There’s a reason it took so long for the world to learn of Petra, the city is largely concealed deep inside a network of gorges and canyons. The main entrance, on the city’s eastern side, offers the most dramatic introduction to the city. Starting on the edge of Wadi Musa, the tourist town that has swelled up around this gateway, enter the narrow canyon called the Siq. Although you’ll be encouraged to take a donkey, avoid doing so; cruelty aside, hefty tips are often demanded, and the Petra experience is far better without the hassle.

Cliffs tower over this narrow path, which weaves through the sinewy rock for 1.2km, finally opening onto Al-Khazneh, better known as The Treasury. One of Petra’s highlights, its lofty columns and shallow pediment are topped by a vast funerary urn; the whole structure is carved directly into the cliff. As with much of the site, there is no concrete certainty as to its significance, although it is thought to be the tomb of an important Nabataean ruler at the time it was built in the first century.

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From here, a series of lofty carved buildings straddle the canyon floor on either side, which winds onwards to your right. Although many smaller paths lead to a confection of tombs and ruins buried in the rock, continue along the flat canyon floor until it opens up to reveal the main arena of the city. A Nabataean theatre and colonnaded street to your left, and a series of tombs cut into the cliffs on your right, including that of Sextius Florentinus (a Roman senator), demonstrate the Hellenistic and Roman influences on the city, both politically and architecturally.

Because the site was largely abandoned as a lived-in city (its existence known for centuries only to the Bedouin who inherited it), what remains of Petra today feels sacred. Given that a vast proportion of its highlights happen to be tombs, there’s also a sense of reverence without ever turning maudlin. Although most people settle for seeing the highlights in a day, allow two days to explore the site thoroughly.

Other highlights include the Royal Tombs, Ad Deir, also known as The Monastery, which sits apart from the main city centre, and the High Place of Sacrifice. These latter two landmarks require a rather steep climb up steps (the touts often exaggerate the number of steps to scare people into hiring donkeys), rendered more difficult in the desert heat, although the panoramic views of Petra from the top are reward enough.

Fill in the gaps

The centre of Petra is reached through a narrow gorge known as the Siq (Getty/iStockphoto)

Back at the entrance gate, across from Petra Visitor Center, you’ll find the Petra Museum, a modern facility which opened in 2019 to exhibit the archaeological treasures unearthed in and around the ancient city. Charting the settlement’s history from the arrival of Neolithic peoples through to the city’s demise, the museum’s artefacts and interactive exhibits paint a vivid picture of Nabataean life. Ideally, try to visit before you enter Petra, for a deeper appreciation of the relics left within.

Discover Petra’s back door

An alternative route into Petra is via Little Petra (Al-Beida) to the north. As the name suggests, Little Petra is similar in age and style to its larger neighbour, but on a smaller scale. The site is even accessed via its own mini version of the Siq. It is believed that Little Petra was an agrarian, creative suburb of the city during its zenith, where remnants of viticulture and painted murals can still be seen. From Little Petra there’s a path that leads south to Petra. This back door is a great alternative way to enter the Unesco landmark, entering the site near Ad Deir.

North of Petra is sister archaeological site, Little Petra (Getty)

Where to stay

Mövenpick Resort Petra

There are no hotels and very few places to eat and drink in Petra proper, but outside the main entrance, there’s a bevy of services and touts angling for business. The Movenpick Resort Petra has long been a cut above the rest; its location, overlooking Petra Museum and the main entrance gate, and its genteel arabesque decor, are tough to surpass.

Petra Plaza Hotel

Simple and refined, Petra Plaza remains the reliable choice for rooms on a mid-range budget. Ideal for those looking to take part in other activities in Wadi Musa, such as cooking classes at Petra Kitchen, the hotel is located further into Wadi Musa town, just over a mile from the main entrance to Petra. Rooms are decorated in warm tones, with woven rugs and air conditioning.

Ammarin Bedouin Camp

If you’re looking to stay closer in tune with the desert and surrounding mountains, the Ammarin Bedouin Camp offers simple tents with single or double beds. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price and a shuttle service to Petra (extra charge) is also available. As with most Bedouin camps in Jordan, you can book tours and guides directly with the owners.

Where to eat

Wadi Musa is packed with options of varying quality. My Mom’s Recipe is one of the reliable spots close to Petra’s main entrance. As the name suggests, the focus is on home-style Jordanian cuisine, with heaped plates of mansaf (slow-cooked lamb and rice) and maqluba (a one-pot rice dish with meat and vegetables). There’s a certain theatre of food here, with the restaurant designed like a giant Bedouin tent. A whole page of the menu is dedicated to vegan and vegetarian dishes.

Zawaya has two locations, but it’s the original outpost in the centre of Wadi Musa that is most celebrated. Jordanian and Levantine dishes prevail, alongside barbecued meats and a fantastic hummus, but the desserts are the highlight, particularly the homemade warbat (triangular filo pastry with a sweet filling).

Mansaf is considered the national dish of Jordan (Getty/iStockphoto)

Of the few restaurants located in Petra proper, The Basin occupies a building that once housed the museum (before the new facility was opened). As you’d expect from a place with no competition in the middle of a tourist trap, you won’t be getting gourmet cuisine here, but the air-conditioned interior offers much-needed respite from the sun, and the buffet could be a lot worse.

Where to drink

Although visiting The Monastery requires a walk up many steps, As Deir Restaurant offers some basic seating in the shade, along with cold drinks, tea and coffee. It may sound basic but it’s the perfect way to take in the view, while taking on liquids. You can also buy snacks and shawarma, and it’s best to pay using cash. There’s also a toilet here, for which you must pay (around £1.10).

If, after reaching The Monastery, you feel as though you still have plenty of energy, follow the signs for End of the World Coffee heading to the northwest. Sited on the edge of a cliff, there’s no reason to come here other than to drink authentic Bedouin tea with the gentleman who runs the spot.

Alcohol isn’t illegal in Jordan, but it is hard to find and heavily taxed. Inevitably, international hotels are often the best place to find a stiff drink. The Movenpick has Al Maqa’ad Bar, while Petra Palace has Kilkenny. Both options are a little underwhelming. The best option is The Cave Bar at Petra Guest House, next to Petra Visitor Center, which is branded as being, somewhat distastefully, located within a former Nabataean tomb.

Where to shop

The Nabataean Ladies Cooperative works with local Bedouin women to craft bracelets, rings, chains and other jewellery out of silver. You can observe their handiwork in action in the workshop on the second floor and purchase the finished items directly.

There is no shortage of souvenir shops in Wadi Musa. Among them, The Sand Castle is well positioned a few hundred metres from the entrance gate. Bottled sand art, jewellery, handmade rugs, inlaid furniture and antique silver are the main items that you’ll see variations of elsewhere but are of higher quality here. Souk Zara, located within the Movenpick, is another good choice.

Architectural highlight

The Treasury, or Al-Khazneh, is thought to have been built as a mausoleum and crypt (Getty/iStockphoto)

Beyond The Treasury which, with its intricate, weathered carvings of mythology’s heavy hitters such as Castor and Pollux, is the most obvious candidate, Petra’s highlight potentially still waits to be revealed. In 2016, new mapping techniques revealed what appeared to be the ruins of a huge new structure buried beneath the sand. Much more is believed to be undiscovered, only adding to the city’s allure.

FAQs

What currency do I need?

Jordanian dinars (JOD).

What language is spoken?

Arabic is Jordan’s official language, although many people are adept in English.

Should I tip?

Although it’s not mandatory, leaving a tip goes down well in Jordan and 10-15 per cent is usually appropriate. For hotel service, around 2 JOD (around £2.30) should suffice.

What’s the time difference?

GMT+3.

How should I get around?

JETT run a daily bus service between Amman and Petra, which departs early. However, the best solution is to hire a car and weave some sights along the King’s Highway into your itinerary.

What’s the best view?

Less of a question of where and more of when: the most captivating view is after dark, when Petra by Night tours into the city see the ancient monuments illuminated by hundreds of flickering candles and the innumerable stars above. Tours run on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays.

Insider tip

Buying a Jordan Pass before you travel allows you to take care of two key tasks: ticketing and visas. Provided you’re staying in the country for more than three nights, the Jordan Pass allows you to waive visa fees on arrival and provides free entry to most major attractions, including Wadi Rum, Jerash and, of course, Petra.

Getting there

Flights connect the UK to Jordan at two entry points: Amman (Queen Alia International Airport) and Aqaba (King Hussein International Airport). While the latter is closer to Petra, there are direct flights from London to Amman throughout the year with Royal Jordanian, British Airways and Wizz Air. Direct flights twice weekly from Gatwick to Aqaba with easyJet run from late October to March.