Wines of the week: 7 bottles to pair with spring fare

It’s a bounteous month for British fare: asparagus, purple broccoli, wild garlic and spring lamb are all coming into season. Terry Kirby selects the perfect match for each

Ah, spring. Finally, we have some warmer weather. Been a bit delayed this year: the Beast from the East, still wearing the thermals at Easter, my spring whites column at the start of the month might have been a bit premature, etc... But now that bright yellow thing has reappeared in the sky, we have already had a mini April heatwave and can, theoretically, expect lighter evenings and milder temperatures which allow us to at last move on from braises and casseroles to salads, grilled meat and fish and green vegetables, rather than all those roots.

And the king of spring green vegetables is, of course, British asparagus, the bad weather having delayed the start of the official season this year from the start of the month until just this past week. And as regularly as the spears poke out of the ground at some point in April, they are followed by agonies over which wines with which to accompany asparagus, regularly cited as one of the most wine-unfriendly foodstuffs (which might also be why it does strange things to urine...) But it’s not that difficult: the grassy, metallic but earthy taste of asparagus can work well with many sauvignon blancs, where the, clean, green leaf herbal and zesty notes are the ideal match. As I said last week, there are oodles of sauvignons out there, with the New Zealand Marlborough style most ideally suited, but try the much less well known Limestone Coast 2017 (£10.00 Marksandpencer.com) from the region of the same name in South Australia but displaying all the characteristic New World qualities – full-on tropical fruits and zesty, grassy, citric flavours. Spike the melted butter on the asparagus with lemon zest and juice and the match will be even better.

But, but….we should be a bit more adventurous.

If you are a bit OD-d on SB, a great alternative for asparagus is the fabulous Olifantsberg Grenache Blanc 2016 (£15.66 Greatwinesdirect.co.uk) from South Africa’s Breedekloof region – a little oak ageing brings out the complexity of the white Grenache grape, delivering a wine finely balanced between fresher orchard fruits, lime zest and a richer, layered finish. It is also particularly good with purple sprouting broccoli, also in peak season. Another grape that can pair with asparagus is Riesling – but make sure it is the bone dry, mineral version, rather than some of the slightly sweeter, off dry wines. The Peter & Ulrich Dry Riesling 2015/16 (£12.99 Majestic) is a great example – zesty, almost spritzy approachability, with apple, peach and apricot flavours with a long clean finish. If you are an SB fan, then you should love this.

Our third green vegetable is wild garlic, which can be found widely in woodlands about now and is a forager’s delight – just make sure it’s picked well away from traffic, dogs or cattle and washed well – think of it as a garlicky spinach and use in a variety of ways in a sauce, pesto or simply steamed with roast meats or grilled fish. It’s also brilliant with crab, which is also now in season and for which you need something slightly more substantial, such as the Austrian Brundlmayer Ried Berg-Vogelsgang Gruner Veltliner 2016 (£17.99 Ocado.com; Waitrosecellar.com) delicate, refined, lightly smoky and spicy. And also good with asparagus.

The meat of the moment is of course spring lamb, which needs red wines to bring out the best of it. The flavours of pinot noir go well with lamb and if it’s a special occasion, try the exceptional Burn Cottage Moonlight Race Pinot Noir Central Otago 2014 (£29.95 Winedirect.co.uk; £29.99 Agwines.com) from a boutique, biodynamic producer: complex flavours of summer berries, cherries, wild herbs and an earthy, spicy underpinning; a serious elegant bottle. If pinot is not for you or the budget is a bit lower, the rich, robust and spicy Tanners Super Douro, Reserva 2015, (£14.50 Tanners-wines.co.uk) made from the local port grapes combination with the addition of the rare sousao grape to give structure, will cut through any fattiness in the lamb. A terrifically appealling all round red for roasts and barbecues, once the weather allows.

And talking of summer berries, we are now also on the brink of the strawberry season, that most British of fruits, although most of the early arrivals in the shops will be grown under glass. Still, if the heatwave returns, it’s a good excuse to open a chilled rose, a joyous match for strawberries – just make sure the wine is colder than the fruit – as well as other summer fruit based desserts or tarts.

Bone dry, lean Provencal roses are, of course, fine, but for puddings, a fuller bodied, not quite to so dry and much fruitier rose is a better choice, so try the Basilicata Rosata Le Ralle Alovini 2016, (£8.95 Thewinesociety.com) made in Basilicata in southern Italy from the aglianico grape, which will give you the taste of strawberries in the glass, as well as the plate.