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Wines of the week: Eight medium bodied reds to drink chilled

Reds aren’t just for winter and pairing with hearty beef stews. Terry Kirby finds red wines that can be drunk in warmer weather, and even with fish

Terry Kirby
Thursday 10 May 2018 17:36 BST
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I hope you are all duly grateful. Refraining from writing about wines for barbecues, picnics and all things pertaining to outdoor eating and drinking last week led to record Bank Holiday temperatures, hotter than Rio, not an inch to spare on the beach, etc etc.

So this week, with the forecast for the weekend a bit uncertain again, I’m hedging my bets once more with some lighter to medium bodied reds, for chilling out with and, er, chilling over the coming months, ones more suitable to pair with fish (yes, it works) lighter foods, big salads, fresh young cheeses or with tapas, mezze and, whisper it quietly – barbecues – but will be perfectly happy indoors or out, hot or cold…

The grapes we need to bear in mind here are principally those grown in cooler climates such as gamay – associated with the beaujolais villages and very few other places – the renowned pinot noir and perhaps some others less well known but worth investigating.

Beaujolais wines vary in weight and substance from area to area but its best to seek out the lighter, more floral versions. My personal view is that most can take a light chill – say half an hour in the fridge, particularly on a warm evening. Try the juicy, fruity Domaine Des Pierres Dorées 2016, (£10.99 Laithwaites.co.uk), or similar, but somewhat more refined and elegant Manoir Du Carra Terre de Combiaty Brouilly 2016 (£13 Genesiswines.com); both brilliant with patés and charcuterie or something like cracked wheat with roasted vegetables. Avoid over-chilling.

Moving eastwards in France, Sancerre in the Loire Valley is principally known for its mineral, bone dry whites, derived from the fossil-rich, chalky soils, but these also deliver fabulous light-bodied, aromatic, very fresh reds, which are mostly only drunk at cellar or fridge door temperature and happily match many fish dishes, particularly tuna and salmon, or chicken on the barbecue.

For pure Sancerre, try the black-fruit laden Les Marennes Rouge Sancerre (£13.99 Waitrose) or, for something a bit more special, the intensely mineral, juicy Denis Jamain Les Fossiles 2016 (£14.99 Virginwines.co.uk), from an organic, very small producer of fabulous quality wines in the tiny appellation of Reuilly, further south down the Loire Valley.

Outside France, Germany is also a good source of lighter reds, such as the very easy drinking, cherry and white pepper flavoured Hans Baer Pinot Noir 2016 (£6; until 28 May, normally £7 Tesco). Terrific value as well. Many New World pinots can be a bit too weighty and complex for easy summer drinking, but try the smokey, ethereal SeaGlass Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County 2015 (£13 Marksandspencers.com) for a Californian take on pinot.

Finally, a couple of unusual reds both from much less well known grapes: from Sardinia, the Melis Bovale, Isole Dei Nuraghi (£11.80 Tanners-wines.co.uk) is made from the local bovale grape and has soft, herbal and blackberry flavours while the Miguel Torres Reserva de Pueblo Pais 2014 (£9.25 Farehamwinecellar.co.uk) is a terrific example of the recently rediscovered Chilean pais grape; more cherry fruit flavours, but a touch of spice and a rather more firm tannic grip; both beguiling and different, both ideal with a big bowl of pasta with tomato and other vegetable sauces.

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