Bavaria beyond Oktoberfest: Why you should visit Germany’s ‘trad’ region outside of its famous festival

From great shaggy beasts to towns full of frescos, Vicky Smith finds much to discover besides the top tourist draws

Wild-Berghof Buchet in the Bavarian Forest (Bayern.by-Gert Krautbauer)

The streets of Sonthofen, Germany’s southernmost town, were eerily quiet. A Christmas tree twinkled softly and restaurants cast warm pools of light, but darkness and silence reigned. Something was afoot… Suddenly, a cacophony of cowbells. And then they appeared: huge shaggy beasts with a human form and long curving horns.

These were Klausen, a variation on the infamous Krampus. Each year in early December, men (who must be unmarried) march through Sonthofen in fearsome furry costumes, whipping spectators with twigs. Women also take part in parades as “Bärbele”, dressed in witchy outfits. I was delighted to find how enthusiastically this ancient Alpine practice – likely pagan in origin, and designed to ward off winter’s evil spirits – had been embraced by younger generations.

Bavaria has many iconic tourist hallmarks: from rosy-cheeked men in lederhosen to King Ludwig II’s Disney-imitated castles. But the region’s biggest draw, for better or worse, remains Oktoberfest, with its swilling steins of beer and dirndl-clad waitresses. This sees millions of visitors descend on Munich for the rowdiest festival of its kind, pegged for an even bigger extended edition in 2023. But intrigued by German culture and history, I was here to explore Bavaria beyond the tents, steins and stereotypes.

I flew to Munich in December to start my trip, to soak up some Christmas market cheer and see Sonthofen’s Klausen. While some spots in the state are undeniably more convenient by car, most places on my hit list were easily accessible on public transport from or via Munich.

Klausen costumes in Sonthofen, Bavaria (bernhardhuber.com)

My first stop outside the capital, a quick train or bus ride away, was Garmisch-Partenkirchen, or “GaPa”, a scenic Alpine resort that huddles around the skirts of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain. GaPa is a hotspot for hiking and skiing but, not a sporty type, I was ignoring the slopes and seeking out its less heralded lüftlmalereien. These traditional murals, inspired by the Baroque frescos in Catholic churches, adorn GaPa’s wide pastel buildings with flamboyant depictions of biblical events and daily life.

Making a beeline for Ludwig Street, home to one the most impressive collections, I marvelled at scenes spanning muscular angels and mythical beasts, plus swarthy Tyrolean-hatted men wielding hoes and scythes. Although lime plaster is used for preservation, the paintings still need occasional restoration and there’s a fear they might fade out. So I was heartened to meet the charismatic “Alpine graffitist”, Bernhard Rieger, one of a few so-called fresh air painters keeping this art form alive. “I’m hoping my 14-year-old son might follow in my footsteps”, he chuckles.

Meyer’s Keller in Nördlingen, 100 miles from GaPa, was a different dining experience entirely. Manned by affable Michelin-starred chef Jockl Kaiser, this alternative restaurant combines Bavarian trademarks – from rustic decor and a beer garden to hearty meals like pork and dumplings – with elevated menu options and a sustainable, locally sourced ethos.

Alongside old regional favourites like stuffed cabbage, I perused inventive creations like “Poppy”: poppy seeds roasted and ground in light cream, beetroot cooked with apple juice, beetroot crisps and black nuts. It was the first dish on a zingy four-course tasting odyssey; a refreshing change to the meat-heavy menus regularly seen outside of Munich.

The pretty town of Nördlingen (Tobias Gerber)

Beyond its gastronomic delights, the town of Nördlingen oozes enchantment. Lesser known than its neighbours on the “Romantic Road”, despite an astonishing location in a meteorite crater, this medieval-walled town is all classic, chocolate-box charm. Tall pastel buildings – mainly half-timbered or with scalloped edges – line cobblestone streets, while climbing “The Daniel” tower offers a lovely view across the town’s red roofs. From here, I took a breather and spotted some nesting storks. The Daniel is home to some of the world’s last night watchmen, who still call out “So, G’sell, so!” in reassurance (now interpreted as “everything’s fine”, it’s a phrase inspired by a 15th century legend).

The last leg of my journey was spent in Regensburg and the Bavarian Forest, two more places too often bypassed by tourists and easily reached by train. I’d expected Regensburg, a small city on the Danube, to be gorgeous; the centre, much of which escaped wartime bombing, is a Unesco World Heritage Site due to its fine architecture and Roman remains. Here I strolled around distinctive landmarks like the Gothic cathedral and palatial St Emmeram Castle, taking in the centuries of rich history.

What I didn’t anticipate was how timeworn customs are shaping a thriving cultural scene. Towering murals by artist Andre Maier dot the old town, mixing regional heritage with fantasy elements – think medieval-armoured women with extravagant headpieces and Bavarian lions. Meanwhile, master beader Claudia Flügel-Eber is rekindling the art of the perlbeutel (pearl bag) by knitting these delicate accessories by hand. Popping into her vintage store and cafe, Carakess, for punch and a slice of homemade walnut cake, I was amazed to find out that medium bags can require 30,000 tiny beads and 140 hours of labour.

After days of fickle weather, the clouds finally broke on my last stop before returning to Munich, revealing an unblemished blue sky. Situated in Bavaria’s namesake forest, in the hamlet of Bernried, Wild-Berghof Buchet is a lovely little complex housing rooms, event spaces and a field-to-fork restaurant. It’s also the ideal place for an invigorating hike and hearty meal before your journey home. Ascending into the forest, prettily cloaked in a mantle of snow, I trekked for an hour or so before hunger lured me back to the hamlet – especially idyllic with its Alpine-style houses tucked into crisp white folds – and a delicious lunch of local venison.

Honeypot castles and Oktoberfest may dominate headlines, but Bavaria has plenty of lesser-known show-stealers if you know where to look. Cutting-edge gastronomy, night watchmen traditions and visionary artists were just three of the unexpected delights I’d encountered by straying from the beaten path. So follow my example and actively go off-piste – you’ll find that Germany’s largest state is a detailed patchwork of local life.

Biohotel Garmischer Hof, in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Biohotel Garmischer Hof)

Travel essentials

When to go

I travelled in December in order to to see the cute Christmas markets in the area, but I’d recommend visiting Bavaria when the weather’s more enticing. Event highlights for 2023 include the Landshut Wedding, which returns in June on its four-year cycle, but quirky traditions take place year round.

Getting there

You can get to Munich by train from the UK. The quickest option is by Eurostar to Paris, then a TGV Duplex to Munich. When travelling around, regional day offers like Deutsche Bahn’s Bavaria ticket often work out cheapest; also keep an eye out for Germany’s upcoming, money-saving €49 monthly ticket, due to launch in spring.

Staying there

Schwan Locke is a handy Munich base situated near the city’s central station; ideal for day trips. Home to 151 modern studio flats with mid-century industrial design, it also has a bar with food overseen by the team from Mural, a Michelin-starred restaurant in the old town. Doubles from £97; lockeliving.com/en/munich/schwan-locke

Between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Mittenwald is the famous Schloss Elmau, a luxury retreat which has twice hosted the G7 Summit. But it comes at a cost: from £335 for doubles. For something a little more budget-friendly, try Biohotel Garmischer Hof, a simple but comfortable bolthole in GaPa’s centre. Doubles from £113; garmischhotel.de/en

Nestled in the Bavarian Forest, Wild-Berghof Buchet offers both hotel rooms and – in warmer months – a mobile cabin, so you can “glamp” where you want in the beautiful surrounds. The pretty complex also has a shop and a restaurant serving sustainable produce, including venison straight from the grounds. Doubles from £133; wildberghof-buchet.de