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We tried Hourglass’s new vegan, carmine-free red lipstick – here’s what we thought

It’s a bold shade in luxurious packaging boasting impressive eco credentials... but does it deliver?

Louise Whitbread
Friday 19 March 2021 10:34 GMT
Three years in the making, the pigment is created using animal-free alternatives
Three years in the making, the pigment is created using animal-free alternatives (The Independent)

Red lipstick is one of the most transformative beauty products you can use. Whether you’re a fan of bold, matte shades or a sheer gloss, they’re instantly brightening and are a timeless, elegant make-up staple.

The ultimate confidence booster, there’s plenty of different textures and finishes to enjoy, from luxury brands and high street finds.

However, you may not know that one ingredient used to make the pigment found in red lipstick is carmine. It comes from cochineals, an insect native to Latin America, and alongside its popular use in cosmetics products, it can also be found in yoghurts, ice creams, soft drinks, cupcakes and doughnuts.

One of the main reasons it’s used is because it causes very little irritation and can be used to make a variety of red, pink and orange colourings.

But in the past five years, the demand for vegan beauty has ramped up, with more brands than ever catering to the growing desire for products to contain ingredients that aren't derived from animals across skincare, haircare, make-up and other personal care products.

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The latest launch comes from Hourglass, a luxury beauty brand that, after working to become fully vegan since 2017, achieved an animal-free range in December 2020.

It has created a new lipstick called confession, featuring “red 0”, a true red shade that’s made using a carmine alternative. It took three years of development to create it using no animal by-products.

We were keen to put it to the test, to find out how it measured up on its own and against the red lipsticks we already own. We rated it on the colour payoff, pigment, ease of application, texture and staying power.

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Hourglass confession ultra slim high intensity refillable lipstick

hourglass lipstick.jpg

Buy now

What’s in it?

The formula is made using a patent-pending vegan replacement for carmine which has gone through a rigorous development process.

According to the brand, it’s taken 175 colour experiments, 26 pigment combinations and 19 formulations over three years to create.

It’s a mission that’s reflected in the packaging too, which is a super slim, pointed bullet with a beetle decoration that represents the insect not being in the ingredients list.

The colour is described as a true red – a vibrant shade that’s rich in pigment with a bold hue.

How does it feel?

The packaging is as luxurious as you would expect from the hefty price tag of £39. It’s super slim in shape with a rounded bullet as opposed to a more usual point.

As the lipstick itself is so narrow, it does require a very steady hand for precise application, especially on the corners of your mouth and at the cupid’s bow.

The long applicator comes in handy as it means you don’t need to worry about accidentally smudging it with your knuckle or the tips of your finger.

Upon first look we thought it’d be a matte finish, but it’s actually more satin-like, with a very smooth, creamy and not-sticky texture.

Take your time applying it, however, as the colour is so richly pigmented that one coat is more than enough for a bold, high-impact look.

You can always tidy up any smears with a cotton bud or dab of carefully blended concealer, however.

Does it last?

Creamier textures often feel more comfortable than matte or gloss, but are more subject to transfer onto cutlery, glasses, mugs of tea and cheeks.

We were impressed that this lipstick stayed put all afternoon, through three cups of tea and dinner, without budging one bit. If you are going to eat, we would recommend blotting just to be on the safe side, but there was almost zero transfer and we didn’t need to touch up.

The colour faded ever so slightly, but it was still an even shade across our lips and we can foresee this holding up well on post-lockdown nights out.

Bold red shades can be hard to pull off as they can leave your lips looking overloaded with product, dry, and messy if not applied evenly, but this managed to feel lightweight with great colour payoff and a long-lasting formula.

While you wouldn’t guess it from the look of the lavish packaging, it’s refillable too, just like the rest of Hourglass’s lipsticks. Simply pull firmly on the black bullet and it pops out. You can replace it with a less-expensive refill (£22, Hourglasscosmetics.co.uk).

The verdict

If you have a bigger budget to spare and are on the hunt for a new favourite red lip product, we couldn’t recommend the Hourglass confession lipstick more. It feels no different to our usual red lipsticks, lasts incredibly well and is rich in pigment – essential for an even application of any bold colour.

The refillable aspect is expected from Hourglass, and it goes to show you don’t have to scrimp on luxury for your make-up to also be eco-friendly.

The packaging is undoubtedly appealing too, fitting compactly into any pocket or handbag – perfect as colours like this one often require touch-ups after eating – and reflecting the high price tag with its glossy chrome finish and insect detailing.

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For more eco-friendly make-up reviews, read our guide to the best refillable lipsticks that can help reduce your beauty waste

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