The Ukrainian wine producers who are working through war – and the best bottles to try

War has overshadowed the region’s natural resources and beauty – yet with a wine-making history dating back thousands of years, wine runs through the veins of Ukraine. The Independent’s wine columnist Rosamund Hall sources the best selection. Budmo!

If I asked you to name one of the most dynamic, creative and innovative wine industries in the world, where would you say? Chile? South Africa? I am guessing not Ukraine – but for me, it is one of the most exciting wine regions in the world, and we should not only know about its wines but be enjoying them, too.

Ukraine is at the heart of our collective minds for so many of the wrong reasons. A country rich in culture and outstanding beauty that has been overshadowed by war: 24 February 2025 will mark three years since Russia launched a full-scale military invasion of Ukraine.

It is a deadly siege which has caused not only hundreds and thousands of military casualties but tens of thousands of Ukrainian civilian casualties, too. Yet throughout this horror, the resolve of the Ukrainian people has been staggering.

And one small way this astounding resilience can be felt is through the committed individuals and organisations working in the wine industry. With a history dating back thousands of years, wine runs through the veins of Ukraine.

Wine is one of the greatest symbols of civilisation. It is a product that has united us for millennia through the collective pleasure of bringing people together with good food, warm conversation, music, story-telling, art and so much more, despite adversity – and no country can symbolise that better than Ukraine.

Crimea, one of the largest wine-producing regions, suffered a devastating blow when Vladimir Putin seized it from Ukraine in 2014. The trade association, Wines of Ukraine, says the loss of Crimea and the armed conflict in the east ironically gave a giant push to Western-style dry wines, especially in Transcarpathia and the southern Odesa and Kherson regions. It adds: “Ukraine is a wine-growing region of Old Europe, and we invite you to discover it from a new side.”

This is exactly the sentiment of Vitalii Shmulvych, CEO of one of Ukraine’s largest wineries, Bolgrad, with whom I had the pleasure of speaking recently. He strongly believes that Ukrainian wines are capable of introducing drinkers to a new array of high-quality wines made from indigenous varietals, especially those looking for something unique, interesting and (of course) delicious.

With ambitions of adding Ukraine to the roster of “New World” producers such as New Zealand, Chile, South Africa and Australia through their dynamic approach to wine-making, Shmulvych believes that wine is central to his country’s culture. “This is our usual life, this is how we are living and celebrating our days,” he told me. “I want to be able to share [Ukraine] with the customer.”

The drive to share the wines of Ukraine with the UK market came to fruition at the beginning of November, when Bolgrad collaborated with UK importer Kingsland and Lidl to bring the first Ukrainian wines to our supermarket shelves.

All of this has been happening under the shadow and realities of war. Shmulvych describes how 2022 was a disaster, but “vines don’t know there is a war; and they still need looking after” – so they persevered in the most difficult of circumstances.

Despite the extreme challenges they faced, Shmulvych and his team managed to fulfil every order to their clients, exporting to countries including Japan, Sweden and America.

He said that they have found their rhythm in a working reality that includes the missile alarm going off five or six times a day, during which time it is forbidden to work – he and his 200 employees often work extensively at night.

Other outstanding Ukrainian wines are available through the Ukrainian Wine Company, established in 2023 by a committed group of Ukrainian wine specialists. Their mission is simple: “To bring the very best of Ukrainian wines from small and medium-sized wineries.”

Tania Olevska of the Ukrainian Wine Company told me that 35 new micro-wineries have started in recent years, a testament to the ambition of Ukraine in the face of extreme labour shortage due to conscription and the constant bombardment on Ukraine’s energy infrastructure.

The innovative approach can be exemplified through the company’s inspired campaign, “Just One Bottle” – encouraging restaurants and shops to list “just one” and for us as consumers to buy “just one” this Christmas. This small but powerful collective support can have a seismic impact on the growers and their communities.

The quality of Ukrainian wines is remarkable. I have been so impressed with every wine that I have had the pleasure of tasting – and am excited to discover more. Ukraine is capable of producing wines of appeal to all wine lovers, from your relaxed everyday bottle to wines for collectors. Each bottle is the embodiment of the hard work, care, commitment and vision of the hands involved in making it – and the unstoppable spirit of Ukraine. Slava Ukraini (or “Budmo”, when you’re making a toast!).

Bolgrad Select Duo, Ukraine 2023, £7.99

Lidl (available in-store), 12.5 per cent

(Rosamund Hall)

Bolgrad is a long-established winery located near the Black Sea. This is a supremely appealing wine, with gorgeous flavours of soft peach and ripe pineapple, all balanced beautifully with energetic, fresh acidity.

Biologist Sukholimanskiy, Biologist Craft Winery, Ukraine 2022, £24.50

Ukrainian Wine Company 11 per cent

(Rosamund Hall)

I love this wine. Made by a small winery which was the first biodynamic wine producer in Ukraine, this 100 per cent Sukholimanskiy is crafted with minimal intervention. If you have never had a natural wine before, approach this with an open mind and embrace its vibrant, life-affirming flavours of bright citrus, fresh mint and a hint of apricot. It has racy acidity and a beautiful long length.

Bolgrad Select Saperavi, Ukraine 2023, £7.99

Lidl (available in-store), 14 per cent

(Rosamund Hall)

Saperavi is a grape variety that can be rustic and tannic but this style is altogether easier going. It’s brimming with brambly ripe, dark-berried fruit, a whiff of wood smoke and sweet vanilla – I love how juicy it is. It has a warming mouthfeel thanks to its velvety tannins; a perfect wine for warming food with good friends.

Beykush Pinotage, Beykush winery, 2023, £18.95

Ukrainian Wine Company 13.5 per cent

(Rosamund Hall)

Beykush is a dynamic producer using both indigenous and international varieties that work well in the unique Beykush peninsula climate by the Black Sea. This pinotage has ripe strawberries, plump plums and a lovely chocolate-covered cherry finish. The super-smooth tannins support this generous but elegantly balanced wine beautifully.