Don’t dive headfirst into the Christmas Baileys before you’ve tried these autumn and winter wines

Just as I select seasonal produce for the meals I make, I like to opt for seasonal wines that complement my cooking, writes The Independent’s wine columnist Rosamund Hall

This point in November should be known as the “betwixt” time of autumn. The novelty of entering “cosy season” has well and truly worn off, and the grass seems more damp and soggy than “jewelled” these days. Bonfire night and Halloween have disappeared in a puff of smoke, and it’s still too early to be decking the halls with baubles while you belt out your finest Mariah rendition.

I don’t know about you, but everything can feel a bit flat and underwhelming, and I find it a really tough time to remain joyful. I don’t want you to think I’m a doom-monger – actually, I’m very much a glass-half-full type of person (it must be my profession). And so there are several things that I do to combat this time of year.

Firstly, I try and make sure I get my 10,000 steps in, while seeing some sunshine (if it’s actually out, of course; the recent anticyclonic gloom did nothing to help my malaise). Secondly, I make sure I concentrate on cooking some mightily delicious and warming food: a combination of soups, braises and homemade cake seems to do the trick. And then thirdly, and no less importantly, there is the wine that I choose to drink.

I like to think seasonally about my cooking (well, as much as I can with a fussy three-year old), so why not do the same with wine? I imagine all the things that I’m looking for at this time of year – comfort, reassurance, feeling nourished and nurtured – but also uplifted and energised too, when it can all feel a little muted.

Vinously speaking, I like my whites to be richer and fuller-bodied than the breezy whites of the summer. I search out grapes such as viognier, roussanne, fiano and chenin blanc, to name a few – think of ripe stone fruits or a big bowl of fruit salad – I want a more generous and giving wine.

When it comes to red wine, I like to be a little more experimental. Just because the nights are drawing in and the mercury is dropping, it does not mean you have to drink big, rich, full-bodied reds until the next clock change. I enjoy a range of styles, from lighter grapes such as gamay and pinot noir to slightly fuller reds such as sangiovese from Tuscany.

I feel the need for wines that complement the more substantial food that I’m cooking, so I love wines with darker berried notes or hints of cinnamon and sweet spices.

The world feels like a very unsettled place currently, so it is more important than ever to try and embrace each and every moment. I can’t stress enough how great choosing a lovely bottle – and serving it up with some good food and great company – can elevate any day. So don’t wait for the occasion to appear – instead, why not make it happen?

Here’s a pick of some of the wines I’m enjoying this autumn...

Codorniu Seleccion Familia Reserva Organic Cava, Spain, 2020

Waitrose, £12.99 (on offer for £8.99 until 26 November) 11.5% abv

Codorniu Seleccion Familia Reserva Organic Cava, Spain, 2020 (Rosamund Hall)

The official fizzy season is nearly here, but it doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy a bottle now. While budgets are tight for champagne, I encourage you to reacquaint yourself with cava, as it offers great value for money. Made in exactly the same way as its more famous French counterpart, this fresh, zippy cava delivers a lot of pleasure, whilst being very wallet-friendly (especially with this current offer). Think zesty lemon, with hints of almonds all wrapped up in super-fine soft bubbles. It is a fairly simple, but highly enjoyable sparkling wine for a fizzy Friday night.

Ventoux Blanc, France, 2023

Lidl (in-store only) £6.49, 13.5% abv

Ventoux Blanc, France, 2023 (Rosamund Hall)

This is a great example of what a good autumn white is – made of a blend of three autumnally perfect grapes: viognier, roussanne and marsanne – it is all about the soft stone fruits. Close your eyes and think of biting into a ripe peach – it’s soft, juicy and bags of fun from the southern Rhône in France. I’d rather drink the wines of Ventoux than cycle up their namesake.

Reyneke Organic Chenin Blanc, South Africa, 2023

Waitrose, £10.99 (on offer for £8.99 until 26 November), 13.5% abv

Reyneke Organic Chenin Blanc, South Africa, 2023 (Rosamund Hall)

Chenin blanc is one of my all time favourite white grape varieties – it can range from being lean and austere through to decadent and sweet with every iteration in between. This is a fleshy expression of the grape from a highly regarded producer in South Africa. It reminds me of lemon curd, ripe pineapple and soft-set honey. It’s medium bodied, with quite a generous mouth feel – it’s definitely a warmer, fuller style of white but still has good acidity.

Ferdinand Mayr Exclusiv Blaufränkisch, Austria, 2022

The Wine Society, £8.95, 13.5% abv

Ferdinand Mayr Exclusiv Blaufränkisch, Austria, 2022 (Rosamund Hall)

A bright, fun wine made by a family producer using the indigenous Austrian grape, Blaufrankisch – it is a light bodied, simple and joyful drop with bursting ripe blackcurrants and cherry with a hint of peppery spice too and fresh acidity – oh, and it is great value for money.

Invincible Vinho Tinto Douro, Portugal, 2022

Sainsbury’s, £12 (£10 with a Nectar card), 13.5% abv

Invincible Vinho Tinto Douro, Portugal, 2022 (Rosamund Hall)

This is a charming and enveloping wine packed full of ripe sweet dark cherries and plums and a savoury hint which reminds me of one of my favourite crisps – the humble bacon Frazzle (trust me, it’s a good thing). It has plush, soft tannins with lovely acidity and is generous and warming, but not overbearing.

Chianti Classico Riserva, Poggio Tosco, Italy, 2019

M&S, £14, 13.5% abv

Chianti Classico Riserva, Poggio Tosco, Italy, 2019 (Rosamund Hall)

Dearest Chianti my old friend, why don’t we spend more time together? Hailing from the charmingly hilly region between Florence and Siena in Tuscany, Chianti is one wine that offers excellent value for money. This is a warming red which demands an offensively large tray of lasagna and a table full of friends. It is packed with ripe black cherries, juicy blackberries, some sweet mocha-chocolate and a lick of vanilla all surrounded by mellow tannins and good acidity.

Kopke White Port NV, Portugal

Ocado, £16 (currently on offer for £11), 19.5% abv

Kopke White Port NV, Portugal (Rosamund Hall)

Have you heard of white port? No, then you’re not alone – it’s not something we see a lot, which is a shame as it’s utterly delicious. Kopke is the oldest Port wine house, and is particularly famous for their white port. This is their “entry level” offering, but there’s nothing basic about this wine. Enjoy on its own chilled, or over ice with a slice – or as I love it, with tonic water, to make a delicious port and tonic. It is sweet, but not cloying with candied lemons, ripe tropical fruits and a little touch of toffee too. Yum.