The best Malbecs to try this autumn – and no, they’re not from Argentina

Argentina may have made Malbec popular, but it originated in France, writes Rosamund Hall. Now, French Malbec is making a comeback

There are certain grape varieties that seem to trip off the tongue, and Malbec is definitely one of them. Mmmmalbec – it’s got a round, soft and inviting tone to it, don’t you think? But I’m sure that’s not just the reason it’s now our favourite red grape variety – it’s marched over merlot and sashayed past shiraz to become the top pick of red wines in the UK.

But how has it become so popular? One word: Argentina. It’s thanks to our South American wine-growing friends that we have become utterly obsessed with this grape variety. Up until the 90s, Malbec had a rather lacklustre reputation. It was grown predominantly across the southwest of France (which is its birthplace), the resulting wine being heavy and highly tannic (the mouth-drying feeling) – which, unfortunately, is not very approachable. It was also blended into other wines to give more “structure”, putting those dense tannins to good use.

But then Argentina swooped in, adopting Malbec as its own, swiftly becoming the international flagbearer for this grape – so much so that they account for over three-quarters of the world’s plantings. These Argentine offerings were deep, rich, full of aromas of black cherry, blueberries, and something akin to chocolate fudge cake, thanks to the lashing of toasted new oak that was used in their making. They were hefty, but in a way that we seemed to adore – the tannins still present, but softened in such a way that we lapped the stuff up. We had well and truly fallen in love with Argentinian Malbec, and it’s now rare to find a wine list or shop without it.

And while styles are changing in Argentina – they’re reining in the use of oak, and allowing some of the fruit to be more dominant again – I do believe it’s time that we revisited Malbec’s spiritual home of Cahors, in the south-west of France. It’s been overlooked for too long and there’s been a quiet revolution going on there in winemaking: something I’m very excited about.

Over the summer, I met a young winemaker from the region who poured me two wines: one made by his father, and the other by him – I couldn’t believe that these were grapes from the same region, let alone the same small plot of land that he farmed diligently with his wife. The first one felt like I’d been immersed inside an oak barrel of inky wine whilst wearing a heavy wool overcoat – it was a lot, especially on a hot summer’s day. The other was an energetic, bright, dark berry smack in the face of fruity goodness that was brimming with freshness and life.

The tannins, while present, were in perfect harmony with the acidity (the thing that makes your mouth water) and the fruit of the wine. They were having such a good time together in the glass – as was I in drinking it.

This newer, fresher style of Malbec is so appealing. They’re wines that aren’t dominated by heavy oak influence and powerful high alcohol. All the wines I’m talking about this week are 13 per cent or less; these are wines that deliver great flavour without a bruising finish.

So, why not delve into this beautiful region, deep in the south-west of France, and discover a different perspective on a grape that we all seem to love so much? All of these deserve to be enjoyed with some delicious food: like slow-roasted butternut squash risotto, roast duck or goose, or a tasty cheese plate featuring pont l’eveque, reblochon and epoisses.

The best French Malbecs to try in 2024

Le Grand Retour, Malbec de Cahors, Georges Vigouroux, France, 2021, £9.99 (13 per cent)

Le Grand Retour Malbec (Rosamund Hall)

(Available in-store and online at Majestic)

The translation of the “big return” is rather fun for this easy-going Malbec. It’s medium-bodied with juicy plums, soft blueberries, plump blackberries and laidback smooth tannins. It’s an everyday, simple and enjoyable wine.

Chez Michel Cahors Malbec, M&S, 2022, £9 (12.5 per cent)

Chez Michel Cahors Malbec (Rosamund Hall)

(Available in-store at M&S and online via Ocado)

A great example of how Malbec has evolved from this region. It’s a pretty, soft plummy drop with hints of black pepper and dollops of blackcurrants.

Maintenant ou Jamais, Château Ponzac, 2023, Cahors, France, £11.95 (12.5 per cent)

Maintenant ou Jamais Malbec (Rosamund Hall)

(Available online via The Wine Society)

Winemakers Matthieu en Virginie Molinié suggest that it’s “now or never” for this Malbec, it’s definitely one to enjoy in its youth while the fruit remains bright. I love the earthy rusticity of this wine, with sour black cherries, dark plums and a hint of spice. Medium to full bodied, it’s brambly, autumnal goodness in a glass.

Le Pur Fruit du Causse, Combel La Serre, 2022, Cahors, France, £20 (12.5 per cent)

Le Pur Fruit du Causse Malbec (Rosamund Hall)

(Available nationwide in Independents and online via Shrine to the Vine)

Pouring this into my glass I’m struck by the gorgeous, sweet, juicy fruit. It’s a heady mixture of ripe cherries, crunchy cranberry and blackcurrant. It feels like it’s brimming with life and is a very well-balanced wine. It has a really evocative aroma of pencil shavings too, which takes me right back to primary school and “the big pencil sharpener” smell.

Le Croizillon, Château Les Croisille, 2022 Cahors, France, £14.69 (12.5 per cent)

Le Croizillon Malbec (Rosamund Hall)

(available nationwide in independents and online via Hay Wines)

I love this wine. It’s so fresh, and it has a perfect harmony of grippy but delicious tannins, uplifting acidify and vibrant, ripe fruit. It’s slightly richer in the mouth than the others, with ripe black cherries, sweet prunes, and a medley of blackcurrants and blackberries. Lovely.

Rosamund Hall (DipWSET) is a freelance writer, presenter and columnist specialising in wine and spirits as well as lifestyle, travel and parenting