How to visit Scotland responsibly

With travel restrictions ramping up again around the UK, here’s how to plan a guilt-free trip, says Sally Coffey

The Orkney Islands (iStock)

At the start of summer, many people in Scotland were nervous about the reopening of tourism, which saw some hotels, B&Bs, campsites and self-catering properties welcome guests back from 15 July. 

The issue was particularly pronounced in more remote areas – the Isle of Eigg’s 110 residents took the decision to keep all accommodation closed on the island until the end of August to discourage visitors, citing the much-reduced ferry capacity as the main reason.

Other tourism providers were conflicted. Julie Wilson, owner of Escape Holiday Home Management in Kingussie, admitted she was anxious that it could lead to a spike in infections: “I worry as we don’t have the infrastructure to deal with a high number of Covid-19 cases,” she said at the time.

And yet, Julie could also see the benefits of a return of tourism, which contributes £6bn each year to Scotland’s GDP: “It is lovely to see our area busy with tourists again. For me, it brings a sense of normality and structure to our lives and, of course, some much needed income.”

Cut to a couple of months later, and cases are surging again across the UK, with Scotland’s “central belt” – comprised of Lothian, Lanarkshire, Forth Valley, Ayrshire & Arran and Greater Glasgow & Clyde – particularly badly affected. Meanwhile, parts of the Highlands and the islands are desperate to hang on to their low infection rates, while still depending on tourists for money.

It’s crucial that visitors to Scotland are mindful of this paradox and that they stick to the guidelines – wearing masks, using hand sanitiser and booking ahead – so they can support the country’s recovery in a responsible way.

Ben Thorburn, head of marketing at Wilderness Scotland, which plans small-group tours, believes this balance can be found: “Compared with more popular locations, rural Scotland is following the guidelines to the letter, therefore our approach has been one of gently reopening and being very respectful and considerate to those communities in which we run our holidays,” he said.

Here are some top tips for holidaying responsibly.

Avoid the central belt

Restrictions are in place across the central belt (Lothian, Lanarkshire, Forth Valley, Ayrshire & Arran and Greater Glasgow & Clyde) until 26 October. Although Nicola Sturgeon has not yet imposed mandatory travel restrictions, the Scottish government has said that people should not travel to these areas “unless they need to”.  

If you already have a holiday booked there, you can still go, but be mindful of the rules that are in place that might affect your trip, such as the closure of all licensed premises, and limited opening hours for unlicensed premises, which must shut at 6pm.  

See all of Scotland’s latest restrictions here.

Leave no trace

The right to roam is one of the things that makes Scotland such an attractive destination for many.

Though the wild camping rule means visitors can pitch up or park their camper with an element of freedom they can only dream of south of the border, it doesn’t always endear you to the locals.  

Firstly, you need to consider your location. By the roadside is a no-no, as is pitching up on private land or within sight of someone’s house. Similarly, land where crops are growing, or livestock is grazing is out too.

Familiarise yourself with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code and ensure you leave no trace, and yes, that does include traces of your campfire (which many locals would prefer you did not start anyway) and, erm, excrement.

Finally, don’t be cheap – stop for coffee, book a table for lunch, take a local tour or, better still, book into a campsite.

Choose one place and stay there (or near)

The Five Turrets, a luxurious self-catering house in an old Baronial-style building in the Scottish Borders, is offering bespoke packages with other local businesses in the hope that people will travel a little less when they do come.

Spa treatments, gin tastings and a private chef can be arranged for the house. For a little more action, take a guided self-drive wildlife tour or a guided cycle ride amid the nearby hills. You can even take an alpaca for a walk with Beirhope Alpaca Trekking.

From £1,650 per week (sleeps eight); alpaca trekking £65 for a three-hour trek for two.

Support the local economy

For those travelling north through Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, The Real Food Café in Tyndrum, which has morphed into Scotland’s first ever fish and chips drive thru, is an eco-friendly pit stop with EV charging points. The team can also advise on local beauty spots where you can enjoy your fish and chips with a view.  

Meanwhile, self-catering guests in Fife’s charming East Neuk can order their local produce from food market Bowhouse on the Monday before arrival and organise for it to be delivered.

Stay isolated

Of course, the best way to allay local concerns is to stay as far away from anyone as possible.

At Alladale Reserve, you can stay in one of four lodges set in 23,000 acres of unspoiled terrain, considered one of Scotland’s last fully wild places. Spend your days taking a self-drive safari around the reserve, bond with your family while replanting trees as you assist with rewilding, and look out for native wildlife. You can also hang up your kitchen apron and let someone else do the cooking, with fresh meals delivered to your doorstep.

Meanwhile, The Wilderness Cabins are a pair of off-grid cabins set within farmland just 15 minutes from Oban, which are reached by boat over Loch Nell and provide the perfect nature escape. You can swim in the loch, make use of the SUPs and kayaks or just slow down and let the silence soothe you.

Alladale from £3,180 per week in the two-bed Ghillie’s Rest (all meals for two guests included); Wilderness Cabins from £200 per night (each cabin sleeps two).

Embrace a cold-weather getaway

With some businesses extending their season this year, it’s worth considering visiting in winter.

Wilderness Scotland is running a new private self-drive winter trip deep into the Cairngorms National Park where you can come nose to nose with Britain’s only free-ranging herd of reindeer. At this time of year, there’s also a decent chance of seeing the Northern Lights.

From £1,785pp for two sharing, including five nights’ B&B accommodation, two lunches, private guiding and excursions.