Days out: A homage to Hockney in Saltaire

Work, rest and play the Yorkshire way

The world's largest showcase of David Hockney's work sits between a railway and a canal in Saltaire, a trim, Victorian northern suburb. Unlikely? Not really. Saltaire is close to Hockney's birthplace of Bradford; the mill building, which houses the collection, was christened 'The Palace of Industry' when it opened in 1853. Hockney is famously industrious.

Salts Mill is the focal point of Saltaire, the most complete Victorian model industrial village in Britain. It was designed by the philanthropic wool baron Sir Titus Salt, who wanted his workers to "live close to their work amid such conditions as fresh air, pure water and cleanliness which could hardly be secured in a town". Built between 1851 and 1872, the village contained everything from a hospital to a boating park. It has survived virtually unchanged and Salt's extraordinary vision for the welfare of his people can still be seen.

In designing the houses, Salt took into account the differing social and domestic needs of his workers. Managers were given three-storey houses with decorated arched windows and gardens; the workers got plainer, two-storey cottages and no gardens.Stand at the top of George Street to get a feel for what Salt was aiming to achieve. The terrace slopes down to the valley bottom containing the three essentials for Salt's trade: river, canal and railway. The riverside park offered relief from work. Canal cruises, a terraced walk, a cricket pitch and a cable-hauled tramway taking you up to the moors.

Salt took the business of the moral well-being of his workers seriously. No premises were licensed until as recently as 1983. Instead, Salt built the Hall and Institute to "supply all the advantages of a public house without its evils". It offered a library, lecture theatre, billiards room and gym. The former reading room houses Britain's only Reed Organ and Harmonium Museum.

Salt did not stint on decorative details. The almshouses resemble Italian villas; the Congregationalist church is domed and columned while the mill buildings are Italianate Renaissance.

The mill employed more than 3,000 workers and daily turned out 30,000 yards of cloth. Closed down in 1986, it was bought a year later by Jonathan Silver, a locally born self-made millionaire and friend of Hockney.

Hockney's work is on display throughout the building: in the vast ground floor spinning shed, the top-floor gallery – currently showing his opera set design – and in Salt's Diner, the restaurant. The mill also has a bookstore, photographic gallery, shops selling designer jewellery, Indian carpets, outdoor clothing and modish homeware. It's fun, cool, airy with opera belting out at breathtaking decibels.

Forget Yorkshire puddings, the diner here is very LA – risotto cakes, polenta – very filling and very Hockney. Hockney plates, Hockney menus, staff in Hockney T-shirts. Even his holiday snaps of Bridlington hang on the walls.

Saltaire is 3 miles north-west of Bradford on A657. Salts Mill is open daily 10am-6pm (01274 531163; www.saltsmill.org.uk). Reed Organ and Harmonium Museum open Sunday to Thursday, 11am-4pm, £2. Call before visiting (01274 585601). Saltaire tourist information is at 2 Victoria Road (01274 774993).