Travel question: Where should I spend my time in Ireland?

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Simon Calder
Friday 28 June 2019 13:19 BST
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Cork is a friendly, compact city with intriguing modern architecture
Cork is a friendly, compact city with intriguing modern architecture (Getty/iStock)

Q I have been to Dublin many times on business, but I have never explored the rest of Ireland. If I were to bolt three days on the start or end of a trip, how would you recommend I spend the time?

Julia F

A The island of Ireland is roughly the size of Scotland, but getting around is much easier. So you could conceivably visit Donegal in the far northwest or the Ring of Kerry in the deep southwest within a three-day stay. But to get a sense of the character and diversity of the island, and in particular its heritage, shores and landscapes, I suggest a trip to and around the republic’s second city, Cork.

Trains run from Dublin’s Heuston station to Cork every hour, on the hour, for a “walk-up” fare of €41 (£37), taking two-and-a-half hours to cover the 160 miles between them. Cork is a friendly, compact city with an unusual location, on an elongated island, created where the river Lee divides into two channels. Visit the intriguing modern architecture and art of the Glucksman Gallery on the University College Cork campus, and find out more about the city at the Cork Public Museum in Fitzgerald Park.

For drinking and dining, visit the Huguenot Quarter, where many Protestants fleeing France settled in the 17th century. This tight bundle of lanes is now full of bars, restaurants and shops.

If you install yourself in Cork, you can take a couple of good side-trips. For the tourist experience, you could hop on bus 215 to Blarney village green and wander along to Blarney Castle – a 15th-century fortified residence on a rocky outcrop, where you can perform some interesting gymnastics to kiss the celebrated stone.

But I recommend instead bus 226 to Kinsale, a gorgeous fishing village that is beautifully located on its own harbour. Or take the train to Cobh, on Cork’s vast harbour, which is a pretty place in its own right but also commemorates Titanic; Queenstown, as the port was named in 1912, was the last port of call for the doomed ship.

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To maximise your time, consider an “open-jaw” itinerary, flying in to Dublin but out from Cork (or vice versa). Cork’s airport is easy to reach, and has links with a dozen UK airports.

Every day our travel correspondent Simon Calder tackles a reader’s question. Just email yours to s@hols.tv or tweet @simoncalder

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