Travel: A short stay in... Istanbul

Half Europe, half Asia, this great world city is a historic crossroads where rival empires have fought for centuries. Gareth Lloyd discovered the architectural sights, museums, carpet bazaars and restaurants of Istanbul. And he didn't forget to take that Turkish bath...

WHY go there?

A cruise on the Bosphorus, belly-dancing, Turkish baths, a cuisine at the heart of eastern Mediterranean cooking - few places can offer so much history, excitement and culture for so little money.

For nearly two millennia it has served as the power base of vast empires. Still rich in mosques, Ottoman palaces and monumental Byzantine churches, Istanbul today is without doubt one of the world's great cities. The best times to visit are from now until June, and September and October.

GETTING THERE

The cheapest flights to Istanbul are available from the major high street travel agents. For example, Lunn Poly offers daily flights with Olympic Airways and British Airways from pounds 180 return. A package deal could be a cheaper option (see Deals).

GETTING around

By far the fastest and easiest way of getting around the city is by metered taxi. The 20- to 30-minute ride to and from the airport costs less than a tenner, while a journey from Taksim Square in the new city to Sultanahmet in the old city is around pounds 2.

If you don't mind a touch of claustrophobia, the red city buses offer the cheapest option for negotiating the city. Tickets can either be bought from booths adjacent to the major stops or from touts who charge an extra 20 per cent for the convenience. Destinations are listed on a kerbside window of each bus.

Istanbul's few trams and growing Metro system aren't of much use to tourists, but for just 30p the small funicular railway, the Tunel, is a great way to get up or down the hill between Karakoy and Tunel Meydani.

what to do

A Turkish bath can be a great way to connect with history as you socialise and sweat with the locals. The tradition of the steam bath has been passed down from the Romans, via the Byzantines, to the Turks. Islam's great emphasis on personal cleanliness resulted in literally hundreds of Hamams (baths) being built throughout Istanbul. Fortunately, many of these still survive and function today.

Upon entry you are shown to a dressing cubicle where you can stash your clothes and wrap up in the cloth (pestemal) and sandals that are provided. An attendant leads you through the frigidarium (cool room) and the tepidarium (warm room) to the caldarium (hot room), where you can sit, sweat and relax. You can have a massage on the central raised platform (gobektasi) once you've haggled over the price.

Next an attendant will lather, scrub, shampoo and douse you, using a bit of old sheep fleece, before leading you back to the cool room to be swathed in towels. From there it's back to your cubicle for a drink and a nap. For a Turkish bath at the famous Cagaloglu Hamani (at Babiali Caddesi) expect to pay in the region of pounds 10 to pounds 20 (depending on how many palms you grease).

what TO SEE

Many of the major sights are within a few minutes' stroll of each other.

q Topkapi Palace was the home of the Ottoman sultans for more than four centuries and is now Istanbul's top tourist magnet. Amongst its many architectural and historical attractions are a stunning treasure-house full of fist- sized emeralds and solid gold thrones, the mammoth kitchens (where food to feed the palace's 5,000 inhabitants was prepared) and the mysterious Harem, which was home to Jewish and Christian concubines and black eunuch servants. (Palace 9am-4.30pm; entrance pounds 1.50. Harem 9.30am-3.30pm; pounds 0.75)

q Aya Sofya, originally commissioned by the Roman Emperor Justinian, was the greatest church in Christendom for almost a millennium until the conquest of Constantinople (the city's Byzantine name) in 1453. After a brief interlude as a mosque (a mere 482 years), in 1935 Ataturk proclaimed the place a museum open to all. Still essentially intact, what's left today is a fascinating mish-mash of golden Byzantine mosaics, huge incongruous Arabic medallions and a mess of modern scaffolding. (Open 9am to 4pm; entrance pounds 1.50)

q The Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts was the home of the great Ibrahim Pasa, at least until he was strangled on the orders of his friend, Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. Now this grand edifice provides a glimpse into the opulent lives of the Ottoman upper classes. The collection of exhibits from the seventh to ninth centuries includes plush carpets, illuminated manuscripts and nomads' tents. (Open 9.30am-4.30pm, closed Tues; entrance pounds 1.50)

q Cistern Basilica, as featured in the James Bond film From Russia with Love, is an enormous underground Byzantine water tank. It was built by Justinian the Great in AD532 to supply the Great Palace. At some point it fell into disuse and was forgotten until being rediscovered in the 16th century. Visitors can explore this cavern via wet raised walkways to the strains of Vivaldi, whilst feeding the fat carp in the pool below. (Open 9.30am-4.30pm; entrance pounds 0.75)

q The Blue Mosque, (otherwise known as the Sultan Ahmet Mosque) with its magnificent cascades of domes, six slender minarets and spacious courtyards, is a triumph of harmony, elegance and proportion. Competed in 1616, it is the blue Iznik tiles that sheath the underside of the great dome and the galleries which account for its popular name. (Open daily except during prayer times; entrance free)

q Uskudar is just a short hop by ferry (about every 20 minutes; 30p) from the Istanbul districts of Besiktas, Kabatas, Karakoy or Eminonu. Uskudar feels subtly different from its near neighbours: it's more traditional, more relaxed, and a great place to spend a few hours browsing the streets, markets and mosques, or watching the men fish from the wharf.

q The Hippodrome, a pleasant tree-lined esplanade, has traditionally been the place where surly crowds come together and riot. Today it is home to several curious monuments including the Column of Constantine which has never been the same since Crusaders ripped off its bronze plates, believing them to be gold.

OUT OF TOWN

The Bosphorus is the 32km stretch of water which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara - and separates Europe from Asia. As an historical crossroads it has no equal. Ulysses crossed these straits; Byron swam them. Mehmet the Conqueror captured Constantinople via the Bosphorus, and in the ensuring centuries huge Ottoman armies would take an entire week to cross its waters.

Bosphorus cruises depart from dock number 3 in Eminonu for the scenic two-hour trip north to Andolu Kavagi. Tickets cost pounds 6 for the round trip. At present the daily departure times are 10am and 1pm (but these are subject to change).

WHERE TO STAY

Istanbul boasts a wide range of hotels to suit all budgets and tastes. The most popular places can often be full, so it's advisable to book in advance.

q Hotel Park (tel: 90 212 517 6596; Utangac Sokak 26, Cankurtaran) has newly modernised rooms and pleasant staff, along with a rooftop garden with a fine view of the Sea of Marmara. With rooms from between pounds 10 and pounds 20, it's a good deal.

q Hotel Empress Zoe (tel: 90 212 518 2504; Akbiyik Caddesi 10, Sultanahmet) is an Ottoman-style building. The lobby is in a Byzantine cistern next to an old Ottoman hamam. The rooftop terrace has a bar. The simple but charming rooms, reached via a spiral staircase, cost between pounds 40 and pounds 50.

q Pera Palas Hotel (tel: 90 212 251 4560; Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Tepebasi) was the first of Istanbul's grand hotels, opened in 1895 to serve the passengers arriving on the Orient Express. The rooms vary from high-ceilinged chambers with period furnishings to cramped upper-floor servants' quarters. From pounds 70 to pounds 110 with breakfast.

q Yesil Ev (tel: 90 212 517 6785; Kabasakal Caddesi, Sultanahmet) is converted from an Ottoman house and has 22 rooms furnished with period pieces and antiques. Behind the hotel is a lovely shaded garden terrace restaurant. From pounds 80 to pounds 200.

q Istanbul Hilton (tel: 90 212 231 4650; Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Haribye). The best of the modern five-star hotels, complete with indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a casino, tennis courts and a gym. From pounds 200.

FOOD & DRINK

Turkish cuisine is at the very heart of eastern Mediterranean cooking, with the ingredients simple but of very high quality. Most dishes are served with wholesome breads for mopping up the juices and oils. Drinks to look out for include tea, Turkish coffee, good beers, and raki - similar to a French pastis. You will have difficulty finding places which cost more than pounds 10 per meal with drinks. (see Books)

q Fried fish sandwiches from one of the bobbing boats tied to Eminonu quayside are one of the cheapest ways to fill your stomach. For just 60p you are given a delicious fresh fillet slapped in a quarter loaf. Eat it with a raw onion.

q Celtin Restaurant (Istiklal Caddesi 1, near Taksim Square) is a cheap cafeteria-style place with an upstairs terrace on which to enjoy charcoal- roasted chickens and excellent national dishes.

q Vitamin Restaurant (Divan Yolu Caddesi 16, near Topkapi Palace) serves fresh fruit juices, kebabs and a variety of tasty vegetable, meat and potato dishes for less than pounds 1 each.

q Cennet Anatolian Cuisine (Divan Yolu Caddesi 90) has some traditional Anatolian music to accompany your meal. The food is average and the service leisurely but the atmosphere is great.

q Haci Abdullah (Sakizagaci Caddesi 17, off Istiklal Caddesi) has been producing outstanding Turkish and Ottoman cuisine for more than a century. Expect to pay between pounds 3 and pounds 8 for a full meal.

q Peras Palace Hotel Restaurant (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 89-100) offers a chance to sample some 19th century splendour. But if the prices on the European menu are prohibitive, there's always the cafe and bar.

ENTERTAINMENT

Most Turks are enthusiastic folklore and folk music fans, and still know enough of their regional songs and dances to jump up and join in the performances. There are regular traditional music concerts at the Cemal Resit Rey Konser Salonu, near the Hilton.

The annual Istanbul Music Festival from mid-June to mid-July is the city's most prominent arts event. There are world class performances of jazz, rock and classical music in numerous concert halls, historic buildings and palaces.

Most of the nightclubs and bars are around Taksim Square. The biggest and best is Andromeda (Yedikuyular Caddesi, Duvardibi Sokak 4, Elmadag). If you want a treat, go and see some belly dancing at Maksim Gazino (Siraselviler Caddesi 37), where the dinner and a show will cost about pounds 30.

SHOPPING

Istanbul is a hagglers' heaven. All bargaining is always done in a polite fashion, but remember, if the shopkeeper meets your price you will be expected to buy.

Carpets are big business and few people escape the city without giving in to at least one charming tout who persuades them to "just have a look". It's worth checking the quality and prices in a few places before making your choice.

On any given Kurban Bayrami (Sacrifice Holiday) over two million sheep get the chop. Add to that the normal day-to-day culinary requirement for meat throughout Turkey and you are left with plenty of raw material for leather goods. The best place to look for these is in some of the 4,000 shops in the fabulous covered market. This is also the place to look for jewellery, ceramics and fake designer gear.

For a traditional Ottoman treat, try some Turkish Delight. Stroll along Hamidiye Caddesi in Eminonu and find the shop of Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, the 18th-century inventor of the sweetmeat. The shop is still run by his descendants. Another good place to find Turkish Delight is in the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, also in Eminonu.

BOOKS

Lawrence Kelly has combed through the writings of two millennia and collected the choicest bits of history, biography, diary and travellers' observations to produce the excellent Istanbul: A Traveller's Companion (pounds 10.95, Constable). The best guide to Turkish cuisine is Eat Smart in Turkey (pounds 11.99, Ginkgo) by Joan and David Peterson.

CURRENCY

With the current rate at around 370,000 Turkish lire to the pound, it's not hard to become a lira millionaire. With high inflation, the value of the Turkish lira continues to drop daily, so don't change too much at once.

INFORMATION

Three-month Turkish tourist visas cost pounds 10 and are issued upon arrival. The Turkish Tourist Office at 170-173 Piccadilly, London W1V 9DD is not really worth bothering with.

In Istanbul there are tourist offices at Ataturk Airport, in Sultanahmet Square and in the Istanbul Hilton Hotel Arcade.

Istanbul.net is a commercial service with various categories of information on Istanbul including accommodation and other travel services: www.istanbul.net. You can read what other travellers have to say about Turkey in the postcards section of the Lonely Planet web site at: www.lonelyplanet.com

DEALS & PACKAGES

Gareth Lloyd travelled with Kirker Europe (tel: 0171 231 3333) which offers superior three-night breaks in Istanbul from pounds 412 per person including scheduled flights, transfers and B&B accommodation. Less luxurious but much cheaper short-break deals are available through operators such as Simply Turkey (tel: 0181 7471011).