The Independent's journalism is supported by our readers. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn commission.
Nashville for New Year’s Eve is the most sensationally dizzying trip of a lifetime
It just had to be a trip to the USA’s ‘Music City’ to start 2025 for George Clode – here’s how the Stateside getaway became a whirlwind of food, bourbon, late nights and live tunes
Your support helps us to tell the story
From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.
At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.
The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.
Your support makes all the difference.It usually takes 20 years in the music industry and a few hit records under your belt before you receive a round of applause at Nashville’s legendary Bluebird Cafe. So you can imagine my surprise when, shortly after a brief pre-show conversation with singer-songwriter Georgia Middleman on our first evening in town, we were called out as “her new friends from London” and given a raucous ovation by the audience gathered in the round.
But I shouldn’t have been surprised; this is Nashville, after all. And on this, my third visit, I finally figured out what’s so special about this city – and why I can’t (and won’t) stop visiting.
For now, here are my neon-lit, toe-tapping recollections from a four-night bonanza over an unforgettable New Year’s in Nashville, Tennessee.
Read more: I went on the Graceland tour that allows you to get closer to Elvis than ever before
December 29: Broadway and beyond
Broadway is bustling at any time of year, but during the New Year’s Eve buildup, there’s a heightened sense of excitement in the air. The frantic rockabilly sounds of Chris Casello’s wild guitar spill out from Robert’s Western World, and Blue Mountain Drive’s fiddle player tears the roof off Honky Tonk Central as we wander further down. The usual crowds on Broadway are bolstered by visiting college football fans preparing for the Music City Bowl showdown at Nissan Stadium. Jubilant groups in the street ask if I’m an Iowa Hawkeyes fan, and bros at the bar want to know if I love Mizzou (the Missouri Tigers). The answer to both is yes.
After tacos and live jazzy blues from the casually brilliant band Loose Lips at the Assembly Food Hall, we found ourselves at a packed Bluegrass Jam at The Station Inn, south of Broadway. I’m told these sessions finish at 10pm or 2am, depending on “how things are going”. When a dungaree-clad six-year-old took to the stage with his violin, I steeled myself for a junior school rendition of She’ll Be Coming ’Round the Mountain.
Instead, I witnessed a virtuosic bluegrass performance as the boy led the band, playing, singing, and calling out keys to musicians 10 times his age. Truly amazing. As one local put it: “There’s more musical talent pouring your drinks here than in any other city in the States.”
Read more: Best hotels in New York City
The same is clearly also true of Nashville’s under-10s, and they were all still playing when we left at midnight.
Ending the night beneath the twinkling fairy lights of Santa’s Pub at 3am is surely a rite of passage. Festive-themed all through the year and owned by Denzel Irwin (nicknamed Santa by his 18 grandchildren thanks to his long, white-ish beard), the karaoke dive bar is cash-only, hot, busy, and a whole lot of fun. Looking around at the dresses and bowties, it soon dawned on us that we’d unwittingly crashed someone’s wedding party. But it didn’t matter; we were welcomed with open arms and danced and sang along until the wee small hours. Thanks for letting us stay, whoever you were, and congratulations.
December 30: Bourbon, beats, Appalachian eats
Brunch at a distillery might be the best cure for a 3am finish at Santa’s, and Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery does brunch almost as well as it does bourbon. I opted for a pastrami hash with fried eggs, a side of biscuits (square scones), and a whiskey Bloody Mary to grease the wheels. A distillery tour followed, recounting the life of 19th-century founder Charles Nelson and the 2014 resurgence of the distillery thanks to his great-great-great-grandchildren, Andy and Charlie. After a generous tasting, I left with a head full of knowledge, a belly full of bourbon, and a bottle of the Nelson Brothers Reserve.
A needling Nashville wind accompanied me on my walk through Capitol View to the National Museum of African American Music. Opened in 2021, its five large rooms explore different eras, movements, genres and heroes of African-American music. Impressive interactive timelines – ‘Rivers of Rhythm’ – map the influences of pivotal musicians in each room. Towards the end I even got to ‘produce’ a Motown record, which I’m pleased to say reached #1 in the ‘charts’.
Nashville very quickly begins to feel like home. As our waitress at The Butter Milk Ranch would later tell me as she handed us an assortment of criminally good pastries, “after my third visit to Nashville, I moved here.”
It’s easy to see why. That evening, in East Nashville, the sense of homeliness became tangible at chef Sean Brock’s Appalachian-inspired restaurant, Audrey. The super-stylish decor felt like your fanciest friend’s front room, with wildflowers hanging from wooden beams, a large open kitchen and walls covered with mesmerising folk art. Molly, our server, recommended an off-menu Manhattan and wines to pair with sensational dishes like shrimp and Cherokee White Eagle grits, squash bisque with apple molasses, pit-cooked chicken, and hickory-grilled beef short rib. Totally divine – my only regrets were not leaving room for the pawpaw and banana pudding, and sadly having to decline Molly’s kind invitation for us to join her for New Year’s Eve shots at Wilburn Street Tavern. Next time.
December 31: NYE, Nashville style
The ‘big day’ promised plenty of adventure before the festivities of the ‘big night’. We kicked off with brunch at Nashville institution Elliston Place Soda Shop, a 10-minute cab from our Broadway base, Hotel Fraye. I spent the journey singing Eagles songs with our infectiously happy Lyft driver, Wisdom.
The Soda Shop, a 1950s-style diner, has served the good people of Nashville their meat-and-three, milkshakes, country ham, coffee and pies since 1939. I was greeted like an old pal by Miss Linda “The Pie Lady” Melton, who’s been with the shop since 1992, and saw it weather storms of uncertainty in 2019. Relocated next door and returned to former glory by owner Tony Giarratana, the Soda Shop reopened in 2020 and is more popular than ever, much to Miss Linda’s and all her regulars’ (including Nashville rocker Jack White’s) happiness and relief. I came for the country ham, stayed for the stories, and left with a warm heart (plus a cold, delicious milkshake).
Read more: 10 US cities for solo female travellers you might not have considered
Before party time, we dined at Anthony Scotto’s elegant Gulch restaurant, Luogo. Anthony and his team brought out samples of nearly everything on the menu, and a couple of extras, popping open a bottle of Gattinara to pair with the food: a perfect beef meatball, extra-thin marinara pizza, whole stuffed branzino, aubergine and courgette pie, Gorgonzola creamed spinach, creamy polenta, and the tenderest grilled NY strip. And if you think that sounds a mouthful, we also had two types of rigatoni and an espresso martini to finish us off. If you like good Italian food, hell, if you like good food of any sort, go to Luogo – and send Anthony my regards.
At 7pm, we joined 220,000 people – around a third of the city’s population – at Bicentennial Park to ring in the new year at Nashville’s Big Bash. Major country artists Keith Urban, Brittney Spencer, Kane Brown, Jelly Roll and Shaboozey rocked the main stage, with megastars like Post Malone and Lainey Wilson performing at other venues across the city. The festival atmosphere was electric, with groups in novelty hats joining together to sing Wagon Wheel and their favorite Jelly Roll numbers.
Back on stage Keith Urban was an excellent host, playing a song, introducing an artist, telling a joke, all while doing the intricate dance that is live TV broadcasting. Shaboozey brought the house down with his 19-week Billboard-topping A Bar Song, while Jelly Roll mesmerised the swaying crowd like a preacher with genre-hopping performances, including a surprising cover of Afroman’s Crazy Rap. It was an overwhelming show, culminating in the countdown, the signature midnight Music Note Drop, then fireworks, confetti clouds and party horns.
Nashville’s greatest hit
It wasn’t just the sensational party that brought me to Nashville for NYE. Despite being an unforgettable way to end and start the year, it wasn’t even the primary reason. I came to Nashville for its people: to ride with Wisdom the singing Lyft driver, hear Miss Linda’s stories, jam with the bluegrass band, drink a beer with Santa, shots with Molly, and yes, even have a laugh with American football fans.
Because as a Londoner, naturally suspicious of kind strangers, I crave these quintessentially Nashvillian interactions. As world kindness appears to wane, Nashville cranks the kindness up to 11, be it through the cheerful “have a lovely trip, y’all” sung by the immigration officer at Nashville’s airport, or the “My! Ain’t you pretty!” beamed by the stranger in the lift – to my wife on this occasion…
Another sage cab driver summed it up best: “A lot of people mistake ‘southern hospitality’ for basic politeness. But that’s not it. Southern hospitality is politeness combined with genuine human kindness, and Nashville’s the only place I’ve ever properly experienced it.”
Well, me too, buddy. And that’s why I’ll be back on that plane to Music City as soon as I possibly can.
Travel essentials
How to get there
British Airways offers five direct flights per week to Nashville International Airport (BNA) from London Heathrow.
Where to stay
The Fraye Hotel is a modern, boutique property in the vibrant Midtown neighbourhood of Nashville. Close to the action of Broadway, but far enough away to feel like a retreat, the hotel combines contemporary luxury with an old school Southern charm. Expect stylish rooms, a rooftop pool, a lively restaurant, and the occasional acoustic performance in the hotel lobby.
George Clode travelled as a guest of Nashville Convention and Visitors Corp; visitmusiccity.com
Read more: The 10 best beaches in the US
Join our commenting forum
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
Comments