The Independent's journalism is supported by our readers. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn commission.
How to spend a day in Haight-Ashbury, San Francisco’s historic home of counterculture
The Summer of Love bestowed this district with its bona fide cool factor in the 1960s, but Richard Franks discovers that its charm remains in hipster stores, diverse places to eat and trendy bars
Your support helps us to tell the story
From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.
At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.
The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.
Your support makes all the difference.Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.
Few intersections in the US hold as much cultural gravitas as San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury. Made famous during the 1967 Summer of Love, these two then unassuming street corners blossomed under the hippie-led “flower power” era as an estimated 100,000 youths spanning the US arrived in this suburb to spread social values and indulge their hedonism.
Haight-Ashbury would soon sprawl outwards as a psychedelic playground, with musicians including the Grateful Dead, Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin citing the area’s free-thinking nature and affordable rent, among other illicit reasons, as elements that made it so attractive.
Today, Haight-Ashbury remains a vibrant area and meeting point of the eclectic, and is home to colour-popping Victorian houses, quirky vintage shops and the world’s largest independent record store. If you find yourself in San Francisco and want a taste of counterculture history, and much more besides, here’s what not to miss in the neighbourhood.
What to do
Go vintage clothes shopping
Is this the best place in San Francisco to bag a pre-loved garment? More than a dozen vintage stores and thrift shops are packed into a half-mile radius on Haight Street, between Central Avenue and Strayan Street, selling everything from Levi’s jeans to antique jewellery. Try Relic Vintage for rare finds or go thrifting at Held Over.
Read more on US travel:
Visit the homes of famous rockers
Haight-Ashbury wouldn’t exist in its current guise if it weren’t for that inadvertent spotlight placed on the neighbourhood by its hippie rockers. Music fans flock from all over the world to spend time in the area where the famous 1967 Summer of Love all began. You can’t go in, but you can see the apartment where nomadic guitar genius Hendrix lived for a short time, plus the historic Grateful Dead House where the band lived and jammed together; both praised the low rent of the area at the time for allowing the magic to happen.
Explore Golden Gate Park
It might not run through Haight-Ashbury but the city’s largest park has its boundaries on the edge of the district. This 1,017-acre green space stakes its claim as the third most visited park in the US. Summer concerts are often held on Robin Williams Meadow, a memorial patch for the late actor who lived in San Francisco, while the suitably named Hippie Hill sees thousands descend upon it on 20 April (or 4/20) to celebrate California’s legal right to use cannabis. There’s also a skate park, multi-use trail and botanical garden, plus the Kezar Stadium, the former home of the San Francisco 49ers American football team.
Where to eat
Cha Cha Cha
With such a mix of cultures, it’s no surprise that this neighbourhood’s food offering has the eclecticism to match. Cha Cha Cha is a Caribbean tapas-style restaurant which comes highly recommended by those lucky enough to live near it; just ask any local where to eat and they’ll tell you here. Its Cajun garlic shrimp is off the scale but you’ll want to round up your pals and try the paella.
Parada 22
Sticking with the Caribbean vibe, Parada 22 serves up authentic Puerto Rican dishes in a warming environment famous for its great value. Everything on the menu – including their renowned fried plantain and sautéed shrimp dish, mofongo – is $21 (£16.50) or under, while sangria flows aplenty at happy hour.
Slice House Pizza
Pizza by the slice may just be the greatest post-bar snack, and Haight-Ashbury has many bars. Slice House is headed up by Tony Gemignani, one of the best pizza chefs around: he’s been crowned world pizza champion a stonking 13 times. You can’t go wrong with an NYC slice after a few craft beers, and their Detroit pepperoni is something else.
Where to drink
The Alembic
San Francisco’s cocktail scene has a lot to thank The Alembic for; this rustic spot leads the way in Haight and beyond with its forward-thinking approach. Twists on cocktail staples include a brown-butter old fashioned and a black manhattan with salted cacao. Arrive early and cosy up in a leather booth.
Magnolia Brewing
In 1997, the original Magnolia location found its home on the former site of the Drugstore Cafe, one of the original Sixties hippie hangouts in Haight. Some 3,000 beer batches, spanning IPAs to stouts, have been produced in its basement and poured upstairs since then, with many named after the city and Haight-Ashbury’s notable residents. Try a pint of Misty Bay, a tropical hazy IPA, or a Janis Joplin, a citrusy double IPA.
Trax
Trax is a welcoming dive bar often frequented by the local LGBT+ community. While it might not look like much from the outside, there’s something truly great hiding inside: San Francisco’s cheapest happy hour. Domestic beer is $3 between noon and 7pm from Monday to Friday, but is $2 all day and night on Tuesdays, and any bar open since 1940 must be doing something right (there’s a pool table, too).
Where to shop
Love on Haight
Nothing screams Summer of Love like Love on Haight. This colourful emporium of peace and love stocks the world’s largest collection of tie-dye and should really be seen to be believed. T-shirts, dresses and even underwear – it has it all. There’s also a Grateful Dead merch section, in a gentle nod to their 2000 album Ladies and Gentlemen... the Grateful Dead which features the shop owner’s tie-dye artwork on the cover.
Amoeba Music
You’ll find another “world’s largest” at Amoeba: this time it’s an independent record store. One of three stores across California, the eclectic Amoeba not only stocks a ridiculous amount of physical music, its free concerts and events also make it a popular hangout for rockers. Amoeba is housed within a former bowling alley and reflects Haight-Ashbury’s progressive, free-thinking spirit: rainforest conservation, recycling efforts and local charity causes are all supported through purchases.
The Booksmith
The Booksmith is one of San Francisco’s best-loved small indie bookshops. This cosy literature spot stocks a good collection of new and classic books, with a particular focus on subgenres related to the storied past of its neighbourhood. Keep an eye on their events as many names associated with the Sixties and Seventies, such as Neil Young, Patti Smith and the Grateful Dead, have all made appearances.
Where to stay
Stanyan Park Hotel
For all its cultural significance, Haight-Ashbury does lack depth in accommodation. Its only real hotel option is Stanyan Park, a boutique Victorian hotel with 36 elegant rooms and a full breakfast buffet with each stay. Having lived a previous life as a saloon and small lodge from 1883, it remains the oldest hotel on the borders of Golden Gate Park and is one of San Francisco’s most historic.
The Line
Consider The Line, at the corner of Turk and Market, for something more modern. This imposing flatiron building celebrates local art from its lobby up to the rooms, while there are daring cocktails on offer in its rooftop bar and Asian-Northern Californian dishes at its lauded Tenderheart restaurant. Its 236 rooms feature king-sized beds, downtown San Fran views and high-end Grind espresso machines, while suites also include rolltop baths and plush sofas. It’s just a 15-minute Muni bus ride to Haight-Ashbury (catch No 6 or 7 at Market Street and 6th Street from outside the hotel).
Getting there
Virgin Atlantic operates daily flights from London Heathrow to San Francisco International Airport.
Read more on the best USA hotels
Join our commenting forum
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
Comments