This boho enclave is the perfect alternative to Egypt’s touristy Red Sea resorts

Away from the five-star hotels and bougie restaurants of Sharm El-Sheikh and Hurghada, Tamara Davison finds an oasis of diving, mountain adventures and laid-back beach life in Dahab

Warm, clear waters welcome travellers in Dahab (Jack Lawes)

As the sun rises over Egypt’s Red Sea, the turquoise waters surrounding Dahab come to life with the rhythm of the morning.

Elite kite surfers leap over anchored boats, and the metallic clink of scuba tanks echoes in the air as divers prepare for the water. Across nearby rooftops, freedivers stretch ahead of their sessions, and Bedouin children playfully splash in the shallows of the tranquil bay.

Just one hour’s drive from the touristy resort town of Sharm El Sheikh, Dahab has long been a hidden oasis for those drawn to the ocean.

Over the last few years, this laid-back escape has grown in popularity among travellers seeking a refreshing, no-frills alternative to Egypt’s mainstream tourist destinations.

The former fishing village has a very different vibe to the resort towns along the coast (Jack Lawes)

You’ll find few five-star resorts and boujie restaurants here. Instead, goats roam the streets, and unpretentious cafes lined with Bedouin-style cushions invite you to lounge alongside the warm, clear waters.

Framed by sand-coloured mountains on one side and Saudi Arabia on the other, Dahab (which translates as ‘gold’ in Arabic) for now maintains a unique bohemian charm. Its world-renowned dive sites, unparalleled coral reefs, and glassy turquoise lagoons attract a certain kind of visitor: those drawn to adventure, the ocean, and authentic experiences.

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Beyond its reef-filled waters, Dahab is also a melting pot of musicians, artists, yogis, and digital nomads (often struggling to find a strong wifi connection). It’s also a town deeply intertwined with the culture of Bedouin families that have called this place home for decades. Traditions aside, this former fishing village is also evolving. The newly built promenade and a recent surge of hotels suggest the allure of Dahab is no longer a secret.

The Red Sea is home to some of the most beautiful coral in the world (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

What to do

Get in the water

The Red Sea offers spectacular visibility and is cool enough for a refreshing dip when temperatures soar above 40 degrees. Whether snorkelling, swimming, scuba diving, freediving, windsurfing, or kite surfing, Dahab has an option for everyone and the perfect location for each.

Around Lighthouse and Mashraba, where most foreign and Egyptian visitors stay, there are very few waves, plenty of coral and several underwater structures to admire, making it a great spot for a dip. Eel Garden is another nearby snorkelling and diving favourite, where you can see a number of garden eels dance on the seabed.

The legendary Blue Hole is just a short drive away for those looking for something more adventurous. Dropping almost 100 metres deep, the underwater sinkhole is lined with diverse, colourful reefs, attracting the world’s leading scuba divers and freedivers.

Several renowned schools, including Scuba Seekers, Dahab Freedivers, and Jeep Kitesurf can help you kickstart various ocean adventures around Dahab. If you’re after some more adrenaline, head to either Dahab Laguna or take a boat to the Blue Lagoon (two separate spots) for calm waters perfect for kite surfing, windsurfing and other high-energy activities.

Visitors can also rent snorkelling gear from most ocean-front stores for DIY activities. But to stay safe and protect the Red Sea reefs, it’s best to ask a local about the easiest entry points into the water and avoid touching or standing on the coral.

Dahab attracts a range of travellers including musicians, artists, yogis, and digital nomads (Jack Lawes)

Lazy sun-filled days

Dahab isn’t necessarily known for its sandy beaches, but the great cafes lining the shore are perfect for lazy, sun-filled afternoons.

Following a morning of water activities, kick back at one of Dahab’s laidback beachfront haunts, such as Coffee Wheel or By The Sea. Sip on strong coffee, read a book, play some cards, and soak up a slower pace of Egyptian life.

You can also take a walk down the promenade for a spot of shopping, or hire a bicycle and explore the coastal road closer to sunset once the midday temperatures subside.

Life moves at a slower pace in Dahab (Jack Lawes)

Mountain adventures

Most people picture Egypt as a country of golden deserts, but it also has some impressive mountain ranges in the Sinai Peninsula.

Depending on the time of year you visit, several easy hikes and viewpoints are accessible close to Assalah — the north end of town that’s considered more ‘local’. These hikes offer stunning views of the surrounding landscape and are a great way to experience the natural beauty of Dahab on land.

Dahab also boasts a growing rock climbing scene, but these activities are best reserved for the cooler months between October and April.

Most hotels can also help you organise an overnight hike to Mount Sinai and Saint Catherine, an area of religious importance that boasts panoramic views of Sinai from 2,285 meters high.

Many climb to the top for sunrise, and it’s a relatively well-trodden path, but you will miss a night of sleep for it (most say it’s worth it).

Dahab is a good jumping off spot to visit the Sinai mountains (Getty Images)

Community events

Almost everyone spends their days around the water here, but Dahab has a different energy during the evening. There’s not much of a party scene or drinking culture, but you’ll still find a rich array of community activities instead.

From salsa classes to open mic nights and karaoke, Dahab’s thriving community-feel ensures that every night of the week is filled with opportunities to connect and have fun.

To find out what’s on, speak to the front desk at Rafiki Hostel or join one of the local social media groups on Facebook.

Where to stay

Rafiki Hostel

Dahab’s most popular hostel is a big part of the community and is known for its welcoming atmosphere. It hosts several events around Dahab, including open mic night, hikes to Mount Sinai, and live music in the mountains. There’s also a pool, many lounge areas, and fast Wi-Fi for guests. Rafiki has 36 beds across its dorms and 13 private rooms.

Alf Leila Boutique Hotel

The Alf Leila is a pretty boutique hotel a short walk from the Lighthouse shorefront. The simple hotel combines modern amenities with traditional Arabian decor across its seven uniquely decorated guest rooms. There’s also a traditional courtyard and many shady spots to relax. Upstairs, you’ll also find The Breakfast Cafe, another tasty Dahab spot selling good coffee, eggs benedict, and smoothie bowls.

Retac Qunay Dahab Resort & Spa

Situated a little out of town, this is one of the more luxurious options in the desert. Formerly known as Le Meridien, this sprawling resort includes a spa, multiple pools, and private beach access to the Red Sea. This is a great option for those seeking an escape from the centre of Dahab and a more upscale place to stay. However, you’ll probably need to organise taxis to and from town.

There are plenty of beachside cafes and restaurants in the town (Getty Images)

Where to eat

Dahab has a growing scene of cafes and restaurants, all offering unique flavours and delicious drinks. Some of our favourites include:

Nancy’s Kitchen

For low-key dinners packed full of fresh ingredients, look no further than Nancy’s Kitchen. This hole-in-the-wall is a popular haunt among Dahab expats and offers a simple menu of hearty, healthy dishes with a home-cooked feel. Space is pretty limited, and you’ll probably have to wait a while for your order, but Nancy’s is a fresh change from other Egyptian restaurants and usually plays great music.

Zanooba

This small, popular restaurant in Lighthouse is known for tasty slow cooking, which needs to be pre-ordered before noon on the same day. Zanooba uses clay pots to cook all of its family recipes in a brick oven for hours before your reservation, creating delicious flavours and really tender meat and vegetable options. The restaurant follows sustainable principles, works with local suppliers to ensure high-quality ingredients, and has a very friendly owner.

El Dorado

There are plenty of Egyptian restaurants in town, but there are also some popular international ones for when you’re after something a little different. El Dorado is a simply decorated Italian restaurant known for its tasty stone-baked pizzas. Away from the bustle of the main strip, it’s a great date-night option, and unlike most restaurants in Dahab, it also serves wine.

How to get there

The easiest way to reach Dahab is to fly via Sharm El Sheikh. Several airlines operate this route from around the UK, including EasyJet and WizzAir. Flight time from the UK to Sharm El Sheikh is around 5 hours 30 minutes.

From there, it’s roughly an hour’s drive to Dahab, best organised by private taxi services. The drive through the desert between Sharm and Dahab is spectacular.

You can also fly into Cairo and travel to Dahab by shuttle bus or coach. By road, it can take up to 10 hours and requires crossing several routine security checkpoints.

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