Travel essentials for your summer holidays, from passports to health care

The great getaway 2023 will involve widespread disruption in the air and on the railways

In at the deep end? Hotel pool in Funchal, Madeira (Simon Calder)

The busiest summer for overseas travel since 2019 is under way – spelling increased stress on the transport network, from rail to airspace. At the same time, unrest in France is increasing, with British travellers warned about the riots sweeping the country.

July and August 2023 are each expected to see more than 20 million passengers passing through UK airports, with millions more using British ports as well as Eurostar and LeShuttle trains through the Channel Tunnel.

But the travel industry’s resilience is still depleted compared with before the Covid pandemic, with disruption a daily occurrence. Adverse weather and industrial action can cause chaos to a transport system that is working at full stretch, making it vital for travellers to be aware of their rights.

In addition, post-Brexit regulations have created pitfalls for travellers, as well as reducing the availability of tickets on Eurostar trains.

These are the key issues for the great summer getaway of 2023.

Passport peril

Every day, passengers are turned away from UK airports and ports because they have fallen foul of post-Brexit passport rules. Sometimes they discover only at the departure gate that they will not be allowed on board. Travellers who have inadvertently failed to comply with the new conditions are understandably very upset. In addition, they typically lose hundreds or even thousands of pounds invested in their holidays with no hope of recouping their losses from travel insurers.

As part of the agreement on leaving the European Union, the government asked for British passport holders to be treated as “third country nationals” when entering the EU (and wider Schengen Area, which includes Switzerland, Iceland and Norway).

Airlines and holiday companies have now accepted the evidence from The Independent about the exact passport rules imposed by Brussels, and cases of wrongful denial of boarding have almost dried up. But at the same time, with British passport holders about to go abroad in the largest numbers since the UK left the EU, a significant number face being turned away.

For travel to Europe, a British passport must meet two conditions:

1. On the day of entry to the EU, the passport must not be more than 10 years old; all children’s passports comply with this rule
2. On the intended day of departure from the EU, the passport must have at least three months remaining

Straightforward passport renewals are currently taking between 10 days and two weeks, rather than the 10 weeks that HM Passport Office claims should be allowed.

The UK also asked to be subject to the “90/180” day rule that limits the time British people can spend in the European Union (and wider Schengen Area). Officials may check whether the traveller is compliant. They could also ask to see proof of financial means as well as an onward or return ticket.

None of these rules applies to British travellers to Ireland.

Rail disruption

Reaching the seaside or the airport could be tricky in July. The national industrial action that began in June 2022 is continuing. The main rail union, the RMT, has called three more days of walk-outs in July: Thursday 20, Saturday 22 and Saturday 29.

The strikes, which the union says will see 20,000 workers walking out, are aimed at train firms contracted by the Department for Transport. They include the leading intercity operators Avanti West Coast, CrossCountry, Great Western Railway and LNER, as well as commuter networks in south-east England and the two main operators in the north of England, Northern and TransPennine Express.

Even without industrial action, TransPennine Express is struggling to run its planned timetable; on Friday 23 June it urged passengers to avoid all travel due to staff shortage. The rail firm normally runs frequent services to and from Manchester airport.

In addition, Aslef has banned overtime at much the same train operators from 2 to 6 July inclusive, which will cause an unpredictable amount of disruption – it largely depends on how many drivers go sick during that spell.

Heading abroad on Eurostar trains, post-Brexit capacity limits are hitting hard. Over the weekend of 1-2 July, the only standard class tickets remaining from London to Paris are the first and last of the day on Saturday, at £218 one way; the remaining 25 weekend trains are full in standard class. On Monday, the first 10 London-Paris trains are full in all classes. Pressure has increased since direct Disneyland Paris trains were axed because of Brexit complications.

Air traffic overload

Eurocontrol, the pan-European air navigation provider, is warning of “overload” at many key locations in July. Under its European Network Operations Plan, it says Fridays in July are expected to see the heaviest traffic – with more than 34,000 daily flights to, from and within European airspace. The peak day in 2019 was 28 June, with 37,228 flights, but since then air-traffic controller numbers have been depleted.

“Overloads” are predicted for air-traffic controllers in Area Control Centres (ACCs) in several key locations through the summer. They include London, Barcelona, Nicosia and Brussels (weekends only). Of more concern are the predicted “high overloads”, which can will result in delays and/or planes flying longer routings to avoid the constricted areas – with pressure on the whole network. These are the areas with high overloads expected:

• Athens on “most days”.
• Belgrade on Saturday 8 and 15 July.
• Budapest on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
• Nicosia on Fridays.
• Reims on “most days”.
• Warsaw on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
• Zagreb on Saturdays 8 and 15 July.

Elsewhere, pressure on controllers can increase swiftly if poor weather causes delays and diversions – or if air-traffic control staff in a major nation take industrial action.

Aviation strikes

The most imminent action is at Geneva airport, where a strike by ground staff began on 30 June.

In Sweden, airport security staff in Stockholm and Gothenburg will walk out from Monday 3 July.

Italy is currently the European nation with the highest prospect of disruption. Transport staff, including some aviation workers, will walk out on Friday 7 July for 24 hours. On Saturday 15 July, air-traffic controllers in Italy are expected to strike all day.

Pilots working for Lufthansa may take action at short notice in July.

The Unite union has warned of “summer chaos looming” at Birmingham airport as it ballots 100 members working as security officers and terminal technicians employed by the West Midlands hub, as well as aircraft refuellers employed by Menzies. Industrial action could begin in mid-July.

Air passengers’ rights

With disruption certain this summer, it is important to be aware of your rights to care and alternative flights. For all UK and EU airlines, as well as non-European carriers flying from British or EU airports, an airline that cancels a flight has a strict obligation to passengers.

The UK Civil Aviation Authority says the airline must get you to your destination on the same day as originally booked – even if that involves buying a ticket on a rival carrier. The cancelling airline must also provide meals and accommodation commensurate with the delay.

In practice, the chances of an alternative flight being readily offered are low, so you may have to pay and claim back.

Dover delays?

The start of the main summer holidays in July 2022 was characterised by gridlock in east Kent, as British motorists made first contact with the new EU hard external border at the Port of Dover and Eurotunnel terminal at Folkestone. French border officials must carry out checks and stamp passports in constrained spaces that were never designed for such scrutiny.

By Easter 2023, concerns were focused on coaches leaving from the Kent gateway, with some travellers delayed by 12 hours or more.

The operators say additional facilities should ease the squeeze, and are hoping for a smooth summer – ahead of a difficult 2024, when the European Entry Exit System is due to be imposed.

French unrest

Paris and other parts of France have seen increasing turmoil following the killing of a teenager by police officers on 27 June.

The Foreign Office warns: “Since 27 June, riots have taken place across France. Many have turned violent. Shops, public buildings and parked cars have been targeted. There may be disruptions to road travel and local transport provision may be reduced.

“Some local authorities may impose curfews. Locations and timing of riots are unpredictable. You should monitor the media, avoid areas where riots are taking place, check the latest advice with operators when travelling and follow the advice of the authorities.

Most of the capital is unaffected by the unrest, which is largely confined to non-tourist areas. Clashes have also been reported in provincial cities from Toulouse in the south to Lille in the north. Local transport is being suspended overnight, and the Foreign Office also warns about the prospect of curfews being imposed.

Health check

British travellers to the European Union – as well as Switzerland and Norway – are entitled to urgent medical treatment on the same basis as people who live in those countries. The British government defines the right as “healthcare that cannot reasonably wait until you come back to the UK”. Typically this means care for free or at a much-reduced rate, sometimes with nominal extra charges for hospital meals and the like. So it is a valuable benefit.

To qualify, you should ideally produce a valid European Health Insurance Card (Ehic) or UK Global Health Insurance Card (Ghic). The Ehic was issued while the UK was in the European Union, and any existing card is valid until its expiry date. The Ehic or Ghic is the most convenient way to demonstrate your entitlement to treatment – but there is an equally valid alternative, should you fall ill. You, or someone on your behalf, should call NHS Overseas Healthcare Services on +44 191 218 1999 and ask for a “Provisional Replacement Certificate” (PRC) to be emailed to the hospital. This assures compensation by the UK government for the cost of your treatment.

In practice, hospitals in the EU will treat first and ask questions later, so do not hesitate to seek care if you need it.