Room Service: The Cb Inn, Yorkshire Dales

The CB Inn is named after Charles Bathurst, lord of the local manor when it was built in the 18th century. From the outside, not a lot seems to have changed since then, aside from a fresh splash of white paint, but inside it is very different. What was once a traditional Dales inn has been transformed into a modern hotel-cum-gastro pub with the help of local craftsmen. And it has all been done without shedding any of the building's character.

Standing sedately between cosy beams and ancient flagstones are sturdy Yorkshire dressers, velvet-backed chairs, open fires and the kind of tastefully mismatched furniture that puts guests at ease. On the tables (as well as the beds) they have stuck to white linen and plain white crockery, rather than going for copper pans and frilly curtains. There is also a comfortable residents' lounge where guests can sit in front of the wood-burning stove.

A friendly, no-nonsense sort of place, the CB Inn gets lively on Saturday nights. Locals who have dropped by for a pint of Theakston mix with passing weekenders, busy getting stuck in to plates of grilled sea bass, roast duck or whatever else they have chosen from the inn's famous, but not altogether successful, "mirror menu". (The writing on the mirror was deemed a little difficult to decipher, both by the short-sighted and the vain in our party).

Everything has been well thought through, even down to the fridge full of little jugs on the upstairs landing that means guests can make their morning cuppa with fresh milk rather than UHT.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

The CB Inn, Arkengarthdale, North Yorkshire DL11 6EN (01748 884567, www.cbinn.co.uk). Most guests come here to walk in Arkengarthdale or neighbouring Swaledale; the hotel provides packed lunches and filled flasks. Further afield lie Richmond and Hawes, with numerous waterfalls and villages along the way. Or you could just stay put and settle for a game of quoits in the back garden.

Transport: with only infrequent buses, you will need a car to get to the hotel, unless you are just detouring from the Coast to Coast path, which passes close by.

Time to international airport: about an hour's drive from Teesside airport, or 90 minutes from either Newcastle or Leeds-Bradford.

ARE YOU LYING COMFORTABLY?

Each of the dozen double and half-dozen twin rooms is different but all are comfortable, smart and unpretentious and blend with the country colour theme - rusty orange, dusky pink, rich cream, deep green or pale yellow. None has particularly fancy styling, and bathrooms have cold lino floors.

Freebies: Just the tinysoaps.

Keeping in touch: all rooms come with phones and TVs.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Rooms cost from £35 per person per night, including a lavish cooked breakfast.

I'm not paying that: at the nearby youth hostel, Grinton Lodge, a no-frills bed will set you back £11.50 for the night (0870 770 5844, www.yha.org.uk).