Hotel Camiral review: A golf resort, but not as you know it
Catalonia's latest opening isn't just for those perfecting their swing
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Your support makes all the difference.The phrase “golf resort” generates a collage of clichéd imagery; precisely trimmed green turf, shiny golf carts and the middle-aged elite of big business, dressed in polo shirts and argyle sweaters, cementing mega-bucks deals. Oh, and Donald Trump.
Yet, following an ambitious makeover, Hotel Camiral, at PGA Catalunya Resort, is hoping to welcome families, friends and couples – in short, anyone after a luxury resort experience, not just those looking to perfect their golf swing.
The modern structure of the hotel appears to align itself to the natural curve of the landscape, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over the 25-metre pool and hectares of green lawn and forest.
The exquisite library, with its high ceiling, mid-century-style furniture, extraordinarily tall bookcases and gigantic mirror to rule all mirrors (a magnet for selfies), is the ideal spot to relax after a lavish meal at the hotel’s restaurant, 1477. There isn’t a wide range of vegetarian dishes on the Catalan-influenced European menu and the seafood all seems to come with some kind of meat-based ingredient, so I awkwardly requested adapted versions of what was on offer. The seared tuna was especially good, but the slightly overdone scallops left me wanting. The buffet breakfast is a less formal affair, the counters heaving with artisan bread and local cheeses and the option of eggs any style – though the consistently bitter coffee was a bit of a letdown.
The Art Deco-style lounge bar serves a casual Japanese-influenced tapas menu, and like the restaurant, spills out on to the pool-facing terrace. But for those not wanting to venture too far from their sun loungers, there’s the Pool Bar, offering freshly prepared snacks and cocktails, or if you fancy it, G&T tasting sessions. Children, too, are kept entertained at the purpose-built kids’ club, a skip away from the pool.
My favourite feature of any luxury hotel is the spa, and though Hotel Camiral’s is cosy for a hotel of its size, it has all the usual facilities; sauna, steam room, plunge pool and jacuzzi, as well as treatment rooms. I booked myself in for a full-body massage and a facial and woke up two hours later, having had the most rejuvenating nap in a long while.
Location
An hour’s drive will get you to Barcelona, while just 20 minutes away is the historic city of Girona, with its Gothic churches, colourful mansions lining the Riu Onyar, a host of museums and galleries, and the celebrated Jewish Quarter. A Game of Thrones fan, I was thrilled to recognise locations used in season six – as were the other snap happy tourists around me. And for panoramic views of the city, walking the city’s wall is essential.
I stopped for coffee at the hip Espresso Mafia and dined at acclaimed restaurant NU, where the food (think seafood-heavy tasting menus) is best consumed slowly, so you can enjoy every morsel.
The Emporda Wine region is also within easy reach of the hotel; the Clos d’Agon vineyard welcomes tourists for wine and cheese tastings, as well as tours, making for an indulgent afternoon.
An absolute must is the coastal hike, organised by the hotel. A storm erupted as I began the three-mile walk with my guide, Ivan, and even though by the end I was soaked to the skin, it really was a great experience; the views from the sandy cliffs of the Costa Brava’s rolling waves must be exquisite in the summer sunshine.
Another way to entertain yourself is to cycle the perimeter of the resort and go foraging in the forest - I was fortunate enough to find fresh figs, hazelnuts and asparagus, as well as a range of fragrant herbs.
Comfort
The hotel has 149 rooms and 13 suites in a range of sizes, each sticking to the hotel’s aesthetic of modern mixed with a smattering of polished vintage. Every painting, every fabric and texture – even the lightbulbs – have been chosen by painter-turned-interior-designer Lazaro Rosa-Violan.
“I am a painter, traveller, and creator of atmospheres,” he has said, and it’s evident in all the little details, the bespoke mood lighting, the neutral palette, the use of wood, the careful arrangement of mirrors.
The room I stayed in is spacious and the bed enormous. There is a desk to work at and ample living space with a coffee table and sofa, while doors open out on to the balcony overlooking the pool.
The modern bathroom has a bath and separate rain shower, while the tiles are hand-painted with flowers and herbs of the local region. I tend to dismiss chocolates left on the pillow, but Hotel Camiral’s turn-down treats were truly worth devouring.
Essentials
Hotel Camiral, PGA Catalunya Resort Carretera, Caldes de Malavella, Girona, Spain (00 34 972 181 020; hotelcamiral.com). Doubles from €175, B&B.
Wi-fi: Free
Accessibility: Six wheelchair-accessible rooms
Rooms: *****
Service: *****
Value: ***
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