24-Hour Room Service: Domaine de Rochevilaine, Brittany

For centuries there was nothing on the lonely Pen Lan headland but the solid squat Maison du Douanier, built under Louis XIV for customs officers to levy a salt tax. Then in the Fifties along came medieval enthusiast Henri Dresch who bought up old Breton manor houses and fishermen's cottages, religious sculpture, ancient wells, carved archways, a gateway topped by lions – even some beautiful carved beams from a deconsecrated church – and had them reconstructed stone by stone on the edge of the sea. The result is theatrical but delightfully so, and a few subsequent buildings, including a luxurious health spa have been subtly incorporated, to make one of the most original hotels – and some of the most remarkable sea views – in France.

Today, the hotel offers no fewer than three swimming pools, as well as the Centre Aqua Phénicia spa named after the Phoenicians who once traded along this coast. The speciality is the Table Phénicienne, a soothing massage on heated stone tables with essential oils and relaxing music. There's also a first-rate restaurant, where Michelin-starred chef Patrick Caillaut does delicious things with local produce, notably fish from Concarneau or delivered directly to the door by local fishermen, including sole with a cider sauce, and a luxurious all-lobster menu served for two.

The main attraction, though, is the sea. At high tide it's possible to swim directly from the rocks below the hotel; at low tide, the locals clamber over the rocks with buckets and shrimping nets for la pêche à pied, while the moules à bouchot (mussels cultivated on stout oak posts) are exposed out in the bay.

The Sentier Cotier de Billiers coastal path runs either side of the hotel past tiny coves gleaming with oyster shells. To the west there is a marshy creek where moored fishing boats include Belle de Vilaine, a reconstruction of a traditional c1890 two-masted fishing chaloupe, which is occasionally taken out for trips (ring on 00 33 297 415 835).

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

The Domaine de la Rochevilaine is at Pointe de Pen Lan, 56190 Billiers (00 33 297 416 161, www.domainerochevilaine.com), 35km from Vannes in southern Brittany, and is on the TGV line from Paris. The port of Saint-Malo is 35km away. Taxi pick-up can be arranged from Vannes; but a car is a good idea if you want to explore the area.

Time from international airport: the nearest airport is Nantes (90 km).

ARE YOU LYING COMFORTABLY?

38 bedrooms spread over 10 or so buildings give the feel of a village. Staff are young and helpful, and manager Bertrand Jacquet ensures that everything runs swimmingly. Beds are large and most rooms have sea views and have been recently redecorated with colourful fabrics. The only slight minus was the insufficient size and number of towels. A couple of rooms have not yet been done up and have fustier four posters.

Freebies: Châteaux et Hôtels de France shampoo, soap and bubble bath, plus a packet of banana-flavoured Dead Sea bath salts

Keeping in touch: direct dial phones, satellite TV.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Double rooms and junior suites range from €105 (£75) without sea view in low season to €304 (£217) with sea view and a terrace in high season. "Manoir" suites range from €296 (£211) in low season to €440 (£314) in high season. Breakfast costs €15 (£11)

I'm not paying that: 200 metres from the coastal path at Arradon, just west of Vannes, the pleasantly decorated Le Logis de Parc er Gréo (9 rue Mane Guen; Le Gréo, 56610 Arradon, 00 33 297 447 303, www.parcergreo.com) has 12 colourful rooms for between €66 and €123 (£47-88) and two suites for €149-259 (£106-185), breakfast costs €10 (£7); there is a garden and a pool, but no restaurant.