Euro 2016 host cities: guide to Toulouse
As Uefa Euro 2016 kicks off, The Independent has compiled concise guides to each of the host cities
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Toulouse is a compact warren of winding cobbled streets lined with lovely rose-coloured buildings that give the Pink City its nickname. It’s a joy to explore on foot, especially since few cars brave the narrow lanes here.
The tree-lined Garonne River divides the city in two with the Vieux Quartier (Old Town) falling to the east and the former suburb of Saint-Cyprien rising in the west.
Most of the sights are on the right bank, where the 17th-century Canal du Midi flows around the city’s north-east shoulder.
The heart of it all is the Place du Capitole, a handsome square that’s presided over by a resplendent town hall of the same name. Behind it, you’ll find the main Tourist Office at Square de Gaulle (toulouse-visit.com), open daily.
Touch down
Toulouse’s Blagnac Airport is 7km west of the city centre. The Flybus shuttle departs from outside the arrivals gate every 20 minutes from 5.30am to midnight, taking 20 minutes to reach Matabiau station for €8 single.
Take a hike
Start in the heart at the Place du Capitole. The polished floor of this broad, pedestrianised square is emblazoned with the Occitan cross, a medieval symbol of the region. Walk up Rue de Rémusat and swing left on to Rue du Périgord where the frescoed ceiling of the 17th-century Carmelite Chapel (closed Monday; free), calls for a moment of neck-craning admiration. The murals, painted by Jean-Baptiste Despax, depict the Catholic virtues in gilded alcoves.
Exit and aim for the violet-painted shutters at the end of the street, then turn right to behold the Romanesque riches of the Basilica St-Sernin (basilique-saint-sernin.fr; free). This 13th-century church is a key stop along the Camino de Santiago, which pilgrims still pass through en route to Galicia in Spain. It takes its name from Toulouse’s first bishop, Sernin, who was dragged through the streets to his death by a bull in AD250.
It’s hard to imagine such a grisly act could have taken place in a scenic city such as this, especially as you cut down Rue Emile Cartailhac, taking in its picturesque procession of shuttered buildings and streetside cafés as it meanders down to the leafy banks of the Garonne.
Lunch on the run
The Marché des Carmes, in the place of the same name, is bursting with locally produced goodness: bread, vegetables, poultry, and a spectrum of fruit. It opens 7am-1.30pm daily except Monday, but is at its liveliest in the morning. There are plenty of tasty lunch options here.
Window shopping
Rue Peyrolières is also replete with friperies (second-hand shops), selling vintage accessories and clothing. Groucho at No 39 (groucho-retro.com) and Le Grenier d’Anaïs at No 54 (legrenierdanais.fr) are two of the best.
On Place du Capitole, master chocolatier Georges Larnicol (chocolaterielarnicol.fr) also tempts with his artisanal display of caramels and macaroons.
An aperitif
Gazing across the Garonne to the twinkling lights of the left bank, the Place St Pierre is an atmospheric spot to start the evening. Grab a table at Chez Tonton at No 16 (pastisomaitre.com) for good beer and atmosphere.
Dine with the locals
Le Py-R dishes up gourmet treats in the Carmes district at 19 Rue du Paradoux (py-r.com), with a three-course menu of delicate dishes that includes pigs’ trotters, wood pigeon and John Dory.
Across the Canal du Midi, Le Chai Saint-Sauveur at 30 Rue Bernard Mule (lechaisaintsauveur.com) has an inspired menu in an authentic setting, serving dishes such as pigeon roasted asparagus for €25.
Cultural afternoon
The Musée des Augustins at 21 Rue de Metz (augustins.org; €5) is a trove of Gothic and Renaissance artworks, with a peaceful cloister and gardens. Noteworthy pieces include Le Christ Entre Deux Larrons (Christ Between Two Thieves) by Rubens, bronzes by Rodin and several prints by the region’s most celebrated son, Toulouse-Lautrec.
Next, cross the Pont Neuf bridge to St-Cyprien, where Les Abattoirs (lesabattoirs.org; open Wednesday-Sunday; €7) is housed in a former slaughterhouse. The permanent collection includes Scène de Guerre, a dystopian depiction of war by Yugoslav artist Dado.
Icing on the cake
Over the summer the Baladine barge begins cruising the Garonne and the Canal du Midi, departing from Quai de la Daurade (bateaux-toulousains.com) for an hour-long journey. Arrive 10 minutes before to buy a ticket (€10), then sit back and watch as the dusty pink buildings of La Ville Rose drift by.
Additional research by Francesca Street
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