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10 things to do in Bilbao
As the Guggenheim in Bilbao celebrates 20 years this month, here’s what else to do in this charming Spanish city
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Bilbao is having a moment. With the Guggenheim Museum celebrating its 20th birthday in 2017 and the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards (the “Oscars of eating”) landing here in 2018, it’s clear there’s an ever-escalating cultural and culinary buzz around this once down-at-heel, now fabulously bounced-back, Basque city.
Ogle art, inside and out
The glittering Guggenheim (guggenheim-bilbao.eus) sparked Bilbao’s renaissance when it opened in October 1997. In the subsequent 20 years, Frank Gehry’s striking shimmer of steel hasn’t dated one bit. The exterior of the building – guarded by Puppy, Jeff Koons’ giant topiary dog, and Maman, Louise Bourgeois’ super-size spidery bronze – is arguably more impressive than what’s inside, though the constantly changing exhibits include a range of Rothkos, Warhols and more. Also, the Artean Pass ticket (€16) covers entrance to the nearby Mueso de Bellas Artes (museobilbao.com), where a less eye-catching facade conceals a wonderful collection of more than 7,000 works, ranging from the 12th century to the modern day.
Stroll the Seven Streets
Bilbao’s Casco Viejo is the oldest part of the city, first laid out at the end of the 14th century. Cleaned up of late, its Siete Calles (Seven Streets) are ideal idling territory – browse shops selling tinned fish and live snails, incense-wafting hippy stores, time-warp haberdashers, cute boutiques and tempting bakeries, such as Labeko Okindegia at Carnicería Vieja 4. There are bars aplenty too, where you can stop for a cheap txakoli (slightly sparkling white wine) or zurito (small beer), just as the locals do.
Find out what’s SUP on the Nervión
The Nervión river winds through the centre of Bilbao. You can stroll along its cleaned-up promenades, cross it via Santiago Calatrava’s sail-like Zubizuri Bridge, or you can take to the water: Bilboats (bilboats.com) runs cruises. Alternatively, hop in a kayak or onto a stand-up paddleboard for a duck’s-eye view of city – Bilbao Kayak (bilbaokayak.com) rents equipment and runs tours, including a paddle at night.
Swim and be seen
Once an old wine warehouse, the Azkuna Zentroa (azkunazentroa.eus) has been totally transformed into a creative cultural and leisure space by architect Philippe Starck – check out the 43 bonkers columns holding up the first floor. There’s a cinema, exhibition rooms, cafe and shops but most enticing is the rooftop pool, from which you can swim with city views – and in which, thanks to its glass bottom, you can be viewed by people walking below.
Add pintxos to your pub crawl
Pintxos is the Basque version of tapas – most bars will have counter-tops laden with titbits such as tortilla chunks, jamon bocadillos or bread slathered in salt cod or fried fish. The best place to graze is Plaza Neuva. This Neoclassical square is packed with pintxos bars, making it easy to hop from one to the next. Be sure to include Gure Toki (guretoki.com) in your crawl, renowned for its more inventive bites.
Mix markets and music
Bilbao’s art deco Mercado de la Ribera is a handsome food hall, pungent with bright fruits, fresh fish, cheeses and hams – visit early to see it at its most lively. Or come late: the La Ribera bar (lariberabilbao.com), in the same building, is a good place to hear live music. Also, if you like, they’ll cook up the goodies you’ve just bought from the market stalls.
Get to Getxo
Escape the city for some sea air by making an easy day-trip to the coast. The suburb of Getxo is a 25-minute Metro ride from central Bilbao. Get off at Algorta to stroll the tiny old fishing port, eat fresh calamari and ice cream, bask on Ereaga Beach and walk the big villas promenade, a succession of grand mansions erected in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Have a Great Week
Aste Nagusia (Great Week) is Bilbao’s biggest festival, celebrated for nine days following the Assumption of Our Lady (next year’s takes place between 18-27 August). On day one the masses gather outside the Arriaga Theatre, a rocket – the txupinazo – is shot into the air, and the revelry begins. Expect parades of giants, food fights, funfairs, fireworks, Basque dancing and traditional sports (wood-chopping, anyone?).
Get high
A funicular railway has been shuttling up Artxanda Mountain since 1915. It takes just three minutes, and costs 95 cents, to reach the top, where there are cafes, a pool and sweeping views over the city to the sea.
Ride the world’s oldest transporter bridge
Leave the city centre to cross the Nervión via the extraordinary Puente Colgante, or Hanging Bridge (puente-colgante.com). Built in 1893, it comprises a gondola suspended on cables from 61m towers – the notion was to link the suburb of Getxo with the old port of Portugalete without impeding the passage of big ships. Travel across the bridge for 40 cents or pay for the tour (€9), which includes a lofty stroll along the 45m-high walkway.
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