Tivoli Avenida Liberdade hotel review: This could be Lisbon's best-value five star
With rooms from less than £200 a night B&B, this centrally located gem is the epitome of affordable luxury
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Your support makes all the difference.In a nutshell: A gasp-inducing lobby, impeccable service and a rooftop bar with unbeatable city views all combine in one of Lisbon’s most affordable five star hotels
Price point: ££
The neighbourhood
Hotels don’t get more well placed than the Tivoli. It’s located on the Avenida Liberdade, Lisbon’s answer to the Champs Elysee: a long, wide road in the city centre which is prettified by an avenue of leafy trees running down the middle. High-end designer shops mingle with hotels – head south and you’ll get to more touristy streets and high street brands, before eventually hitting the Tagus river. To the east is the historic Alfama district; to the west is Bairro Alto, famous for its restaurants, bars and vibrant nightlife. The majority of attractions are within a 20 minute walk of the hotel.
It’s also not far from the airport; hop in an Uber and you’ll arrive in 20-30 minutes (around €10).
The look
The hotel, which first opened 80 years ago, has recently undergone a €15m refurbishment with architectural firm Broadway Malyan at the helm to update bedrooms, leisure facilities and restaurants.
The real stunner is the lobby, where classic style meets art deco inspiration. For a start, it’s huge – a high-ceilinged giant box of a room with floor-to-ceiling blue velvet curtains and matte gold, intricately designed gratings. Natural light floods in from a skylight that runs the entire length and width of the ceiling, while a table crammed with vases of fresh flowers provides a focal point to the space. It’s all dotted with richly textured mismatching furniture, with a colour palette that ranges from copper to navy to gold to black to beige – but somehow, it all works seamlessly.
The vibe
Portuguese hospitality is renowned for its warmth and authenticity, and the Tivoli epitomises this style. Staff hit the exact right note – friendly without being overfamiliar, helpful without being too in-your-face, and discreet without losing a sense of humour.
Upon checking in, we were given a map and talked through some of the key sights and how to get there – a welcome touch that put us at ease straight away.
Although breakfast seemed a little understaffed one morning, our waitress greeted us with a smile every time she came by and apologised so profusely for the wait that we soon stopped being bothered by it.
Bed and bath
Compared to the grandeur of the lobby, the rooms are a little more understated, with neutral walls and carpets, grey velvet headboards and gold, cylindrical hanging lamps – all eminently chic and comfortable. A huge bed dominates and comes with its own pillow menu. There’s also an intimidatingly large television and a desk and chairs ideal for catching up on some work, or simply gazing out the window – the deluxe city view rooms overlook the Avenida Liberdade, which has the appearance of an urban forest from overhead as you look down at the canopy of trees.
The white/grey marble-clad bathroom is modestly sized – there’s no bathtub – but has a powerful rainfall shower.
Food and drink
One of the Tivoli’s strongest selling points is the newly refurbished rooftop Sky Bar, which offers magnificent views of Lisbon towards the river. Cocktails, DJs and live music make this a bit of a destination – arrive early to bag a table, as many non-guests come for drinks with a view of an evening. It’s not the best espresso martini I’ve ever had, but you’re coming for the setting, not the booze.
The inhouse Cervejaria Liberdade restaurant is on another level. Open since March, this contemporary eatery specialises in seafood so fresh it’s practically still swimming, all sourced from the 800km (497 miles) of Portuguese coastline.
We kick off with spider crab to share – a creamy, flavourful spread served in the shell with slender toast slices to dip. The mains, priced by the kilo, are even better. My partner opts for a hearty John Dory while I order prawns. Our waiter recommends I have three, which sounds rather paltry – until I see they are eyebrow-raisingly gargantuan. Three, it turns out, is the perfect amount.
Breakfast is a combination of a wide-ranging cold buffet, from cereal and fresh fruit to meats and cheeses, and a hot a la carte menu. The latter is extensive. French toast, pancakes, Portuguese custard tarts, chicken and avocado bagels and eggs any way are all on the menu. Unlimited coffee and the freshly squeezed orange juice come as standard.
Pools, spas and public areas
The hotel is well set up for business events, with 14 meeting rooms in its newly refurbed conference centre.
A circular outdoor pool surrounded by loungers would provide the perfect oasis on a hot summer’s day – however, when we went in early June Portugal was unseasonably chilly. We took one dip but, as the water was unheated, we only lasted five minutes before wimpishly adjourning to our room for hot showers.
More suited to the disappointing climate was the Anantara spa, where dim lighting, softly spoken staff and elegantly designed treatment rooms made us feel happier to stroll around in a robe. My partner enjoyed a relaxing massage to ease his weary pins, while I plumped for a stint in the sauna with a glass of rose. Bliss.
Nuts and bolts
Room count: 285
Freebies: Bottled water and four nespresso coffee pods to use with the in-room machine
In the bathroom: Portus Cale toiletries, including conditioner, and a full shaving kit
Wifi: Free
Extra charges: €15 a day for parking
Minibar prices: Champagne, €35; beer, €5; crisps, €4.50
Disability access: One fully accessible room
Pet policy: Accommodates pets in the room provided they weigh less than 7kg (15lbs)
Bottom line
Best thing: The location and lobby
Worst thing: The pool being cold
Perfect for: Couples and people on business
Not right for: Big groups on a rowdy stag or hen do
Instagram from: The Sky Bar
Room rate: Doubles from £177, B&B
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