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Limerick city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in west Ireland’s meeting of quirky culture and history
From medieval castles to rejuvenated quays, Shilpa Ganatra finds a city with no shortage of cultural delights, immersive art, dining spots and Irish charm
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Your support makes all the difference.It’s a travesty that Limerick is better known as a rhyming scheme than a destination, given that the city fizzes with culinary, sporting and, above all, historical delights. Where else would you be able to weave through magnificent Edwardian, medieval, contemporary and Georgian areas during a lunchtime amble?
A weekend in Limerick reveals its cultural vibrancy. This working-class city is modernising at an invigorating speed, while still holding true to the Irish way of life that enamours visitors – it is in the traditional west of Ireland, after all. So, expect convivial pubs, grub, trad music and plenty of rugby action, alongside snazzy cocktail bars and terrific shopping opportunities.
What to do
Discover Limerick’s history
The Limerick of centuries past is found around every corner, from the large Edwardian houses along Ennis Road to the medieval city walls on King’s Island. The Georgian quarter is a draw unto itself: Limerick is one of just five cities to have substantial Georgian architecture left (the others being London, Dublin, Edinburgh and Bath).
Must-sees include the Hunt Museum – which hosts a quirky private collection of art and antiques, including paintings from Picasso and Renoir – and St Mary’s Cathedral, which dates from the 12th century and is said to be Limerick’s oldest building. Nearby, King John’s Castle is a Viking settlement-turned-medieval fortress that’s now the symbol of Limerick. Its story is brought to life in a riverside courtyard, where virtual – and, in summer, real-life – characters tell tales of yesteryear with props. If you don’t get a picture in the stocks, you’re not doing it right.
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Pay tribute to Limerick’s finest
Carve out time to meet Limerick’s famous folk – you’ll find a cheery statue of presenter Terry Wogan along the riverfront; a grand statue of actor Richard Harris on Bedford Row; and a poignant mural of The Cranberries’ late singer Dolores O’Riordan, facing Castle Street, by revered street artist Aches.
Soak in the city
On a warm day (or a cold day, if you’re wearing a wetsuit), a guided kayaking tour along the River Shannon is a pleasant way to take in the city from one end to another, learning about its history as you glide along.
To stay on terra firma, the Three Bridges Walk is a 3.6km stroll that passes the main sights, such as – you guessed it – the three main bridges of the city, plus King John’s Castle, St Mary’s Cathedral and the Treaty Stone (which gives Limerick its moniker of Treaty City). Extend your walk with a stop at the People’s Park, a peaceful oasis in the Georgian quarter.
Go sporty
Limerick has a notable sporting heritage, so there’s always a fervent atmosphere at GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association) and football matches at the Gaelic Grounds, and at the rugby at Thomond Park. In a flagship city centre building, the International Rugby Experience is a new state-of-the-art immersive exhibition that’s themed around rugby’s celebrated virtues: passion, discipline, integrity, solidarity and respect. You can have a go at perfecting your rugby techniques, too – scan the QR code to keeps tabs on your kicking and passing, and bring out your competitive side by eyeing where you are on that day’s leaderboard.
Where to stay
Contemporary budget hotels are yet to appear – B&Bs outside the centre are your best bet in this price range – but there are plenty of inviting city-centre hotels.
The Bedford Townhouse
For maximum efficiency over personal touch, The Bedford forgoes a hotel reception altogether – guests either check-in at the restaurant next door, or after hours, electronically. While rooms are on the small side, they’re recently renovated and have all you need, including big comfy bathrobes, along with added amenities such as a guest lounge and space-efficient gym.
The George
This 125-room hotel is just off O’Connell Street, which means you’re right in the thick of things. Offering value for money, it’s here you’re most likely to find yourself a bargain among the mid-range hotels.
No 1 Pery Square Hotel & Spa
This plush, 20-room boutique hotel houses one of the city’s top restaurants and a cavernous underground spa (access not included in room price) within its well-kept Georgian walls.
Where to eat
Mainline into the heart of the action at the The Milk Market and Wickham Way, two buzzy hubs of culinary delights, where you’ll find foraged herbs, artisan salami and vegan treats made by a host of friendly artisan producers.
For lunch, try Sodalicious for arguably the country’s finest soda-bread-based dishes – a staple in Ireland. Otherwise, try Hook and Ladder, a “living café”, where the maximalist interiors aren’t just decoration – you can also buy much of it instore. The St Tola’s goat cheese and strawberry salad bursts with flavour.
Global cuisine isn’t Limerick’s forte, but Dasco Deli is a notable exception. The restaurant (and grocery store) is run by husband and wife duo Carlos and Gwen Dasco, who serve both Irish and Filipino cuisine, including their signature dish: a delectable purple yam cake.
Modern European dominates evening choices. Cornstore is a trendy joint where big flavours match big portions, all washed down by innovative cocktails – the velvet picante has just the right amount of kick. Freddy’s is more refined, with their local-leaning menu (featuring the likes of seabass on a bed of mash, samphire and creamy mussel sauce), complemented by the spectacular location in a 19th-century stone-and-brick building. Top service, too.
Where to drink
Coffee culture thrives in Limerick. You’ll find a cluster of top-notch coffee shops along Thomas Street: there’s no wrong choice between Oahu, Carlton Coffee and Habit. A few streets away, Rift Coffee serves premium coffee – as well as hearty breakfasts, brunches and sweet treats – in a sociable, laidback atmosphere that’s perfect for people-watching.
Time your visit to a boozer carefully – most are heaving when there’s a big match on. Try The Commercial for a busy, low-lit pub that feels like it hasn’t changed for decades. More-modern drinking dens include Crew Brewing Company, an industrial-chic microbrewery where pints are poured straight from the tanks. Treaty City Brewery is another popular microbrewery – book a highly entertaining tasting session, which allows you to sample the wide range of brews with an insight into each. Prefer a glass of wine? The Copper Room offers an excellent selection in a stony, cavernous setting that’s conducive to ambling conversations and decadent times.
For a side of music with your tipple, The Locke Bar is renowned for its trad sessions. Dolan’s is the city’s main bar and contemporary gig venue – it’s a magnet for touring bands, and thus an excellent bet on a spare evening.
Where to shop
The shopping district around O’Connell Street is compact and thriving, and includes Brown Thomas, Ireland’s luxury department store.
For something specifically traditional, Irish Handcrafts is a haven for Aran jumpers and throws, which seem to be enjoying a comeback recently. Made is a co-operative of artists, designers and makers, whose varied products – from scented candles to funky jewellery to creatively designed mugs – combine to make an aesthetically pleasing environment to peruse. That’s also the case in unique gift and homeware store ReStory, one of the many artisan shops open in The Milk Market. Like the name suggests, much of ReStory’s wares are upcycled, and shoppers need only ask to find out the unique story of the maker and the product.
Equally, Wickham Way is a busy, covered market where creators sell their products at excellent value – whether that’s a refurbished stereo, greeting cards or knitted headbands and gloves.
Opposite, Cahill’s is one of a kind – it’s a tobacco and snuff shop from 1870 that’s expanded as a loose-leaf tea specialists. Buy a bag of cherry sencha, spicy chilli rooibos, pina colada or green tea with peach for €6. Needless to say, the clientele are varied.
Architectural highlight
The grandeur of St Mary’s Cathedral can’t be beaten, especially with its luminous stained glass windows. For contemporary tastes, the flagship building is that of the International Rugby Experience. It’s designed by Stirling Prize-winner Niall McLaughlin, and features smart nods to the aesthetics of rugby, such as the ‘H’ of the goal within the interior structure and the rugby ball shape on the ceiling of its impressive top floor. This glass-walled area also offers 360-degree views of the city and beyond.
Nuts and bolts
What currency do I need?
Euros.
What language do they speak?
English and Irish.
Should I tip?
Yes, 10-20 per cent.
What’s the time difference?
GMT+/-0.
How should I get around?
Walking, especially as it’s flat.
What’s the best view of the city?
Grab a drink on the riverside terrace of The Curragower. Here, you can survey Limerick’s skyline, which includes St Munchin’s Church, St John’s Castle, the City Hall, St Mary’s Cathedral and the County Courthouse.
Insider tip?
Don’t leave without a visit to Angel Dust, a designer patisserie with only a few options daily – like a divine cherry choux bun (complete with a pipette of extra cherry coulis) or glossy chocolate eclair. Get there early, as they often sell out and close up before the day is through.
Getting there
Travelling flight-free
The most direct route is to take the ferry across from Holyhead to Dublin, and then either catch a coach, or drive the three hours to Limerick.
Travelling by air
The closest airport is Shannon. Aer Lingus and Ryanair both fly from the UK. By bus, it takes an hour to get to the centre of Limerick, or it’s 20 minutes by taxi.
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