Luxury with substance: Culture, cuisine and R&R in Cyprus
Independent Head of Culture and Lifestyle Patrick Smith shares his cultural and culinary highlights from picturesque Paphos in western Cyprus
Flying into Paphos, you can’t help but feel a flicker of excitement as you first glimpse a land of Greek mythology, flecked with churches, castles and monasteries, and surrounded by the bluest seas. Stepping off the plane, you’ll be embraced by a warm breeze – even in March – and in no time, your sun-drenched odyssey can begin. In my case: three days of wining, dining and soaking up the sights, courtesy of Indulgent Escapes by Jet2holidays (where the five-star hotels are hand-picked, and packages include return flights, 25kg baggage and private transfers.* They also give you a priority lane pass for your UK airport, plus a complimentary drink on the plane, each way.**)
Found in the far west of Cyprus, Paphos is a picturesque harbour and mythical birthplace of Aphrodite, the goddess of love; there are ancient sites everywhere you look. On my first night, I check into the Annabelle, a gorgeous hotel set in six acres of tropical gardens and located right on the seafront. Mixing serenity with a quiet gravitas, the 244-room hotel is replete with gleaming marble floors, art deco furnishings and stone pillars. A beautiful piano – played every evening – sits majestically in a glass-clad atrium overlooking the ocean.
Laidback luxury
Our gastronomic adventure begins at Amorosa, the hotel’s signature restaurant where gourmet dining comes as standard. Waited on by friendly, knowledgeable staff, I plump for the seared scallops to start, and the black angus beef in red wine sauce for main. Both are exquisite. Across the table from me, my friend opts for two delicious seafood dishes: first the bisque, then the pan-seared seabass. It all goes down very well indeed.
Upstairs, the following morning, I book myself a massage at the state-of-the-art wellness spa, which is called Ouranos, the Greek word meaning “sky”. The treatment menu is longer than War & Peace. My friend goes for an hour-long facial that leaves their skin glowing. Then, after a hearty breakfast that embraces the local produce – olive bread with halloumi and anari cheese slices – it’s time to explore. Fifteen minutes’ walk from the hotel, along the Kato Paphos waterfront – and right next to Paphos’s vibrant harbour – exists a sprawling, Mediterranean-facing tract crammed with ancient ruins. Known as the Paphos Archaeological Park, this was once the ancient city of Nea Pafos (New Paphos), founded in the 4th century BC and the capital of Cyprus for nearly a millennium.
It’s remarkable. Dotted within the grounds are the remains of four elaborate Roman villas – the houses of Dionysos, Theseus, Aion and Orpheus. These feature intricate mosaic floors depicting stories from Greek mythology. Particularly well-preserved is the image of Theseus fighting the Minotaur in the labyrinth. Wander further and you’ll see the Agora (forum) and the semicircular Odeon theatre, before reaching the arches and columns that are the only remnants of the Saranta Kolones fortress.
The next leg of our culinary journey is at the Agora Tavern in the old town. A pastel-pink building with green windows and a wraparound vine-covered terrace, this is one of Paphos’ stand-out restaurants, serving up not only exquisite food but sunset views that leave you breathless. In terms of food, there are two options: vegetarian meze or meat meze. Choosing the latter, we’re presented with a procession of sublime dishes, which include halloumi, sausage and lountza. There’s also a fantastic selection of natural local wines.
Hiking and history
Rising at 7am the following morning, we hit the road for a tour of the nearby countryside and historical sites. Looming above Paphos are the sleepy, verdant Troodos Mountains, where we head with the help of a guide called Basil. We pass through a few traditional villages before crossing pine-forested peaks to the magnificent Kykkos Monastery, the richest of its kind in the country, founded in the 12th century. The first president of Cyprus, Archbishop Makarios III, served as a novice here in the 1920s and it’s now his resting place. Strolling around the museum, you’ll be struck by the opulence on display: some gold icons here, some Christian relics there.
After a traditional lunch of lamb moussaka in a nearby village, we take in a series of breathtaking waterfalls and then drive to the small, wine-making town of Omodos, which is also known for its lace and carob bakeries. Before having a coffee in the square, we stop off at the church of the Holy Cross, which is full of fascinating reliquaries. To round off the day, as the sun begins to set, we’re taken to a beach where Aphrodite’s Rock stands, where, according to myth, the goddess rose from the sea. The scenery is rugged, dramatic – and really quite magical, especially when bathed in the pink and orange hues of sunset.
That evening, we conclude our celebration of Paphos’ food scene at... a South African restaurant called The Lodge, where I gorge on a fillet steak that melts on my tongue, while my friend has the seafood safari salad. It’s a fabulous end to a trip that ticks all the boxes: sun, sights and the ultimate gastronomic experience.
Nothing compares to an Indulgent Escape by Jet2holidays. The UK’s number one is always giving you more, by offering luxury in the sun for less. Getaways begin with just a £60pp deposit***, then you can take advantage of flexible payment options, and enjoy a generous 25kg baggage inclusion. You will also have return private transfers*, priority lane passes for your UK airport and two complimentary in-flight drinks** wrapped up. It’s not too late to book your summer holiday, you can take £120 off per couple^ on holidays until the end of August. Find out more about the destinations and five-star hotels available by visiting Indulgent Escapes by Jet2holidays.
*Unless otherwise stated. **Excludes champagne which is payable. One drink per person, per flight. T&Cs apply. ***On bookings made ten weeks or more before departure. Full payment required by balance due.date. ^myJet2 save £60 per person on all holidays until the end of August. Members will need to be logged into their account for the discount to automatically apply. T&Cs apply, please see our website for details. £60 per person discount is not applied to Free Child Places.