San José city guide: Where to eat, drink and stay in Costa Rica’s low-key capital

Once a gritty city pit stop, San José – or Chepe, as locals call it – is swelling with a creative energy powered by its history, architecture, art and food, says Anna Prendergast

The Escuela Metallica building in San Jose (Visit Costa Rica)

San José is loud and dirty and crowded – in other words, it’s like every other city on the planet. Except that it’s not: turn a corner and there are the peaks of Cerros de Escazú’s mountain range to the south. In the opposite direction, just sky. Look up, and pairs of green parakeets swoop between Victorian architecture and colonial buildings that hide some of the city’s best secrets: a sizzling food scene headed up by born-and-bred Tico (the name for Costa Rican locals) chefs, art tours led by locals, and markets where you can get a taste of Tico cuisine, culture and style.

The low-frequency curves of the streets give way to nature-packed views that feel out of place in such a metropolitan area – or is it that the city feels out of place in such close proximity to Costa Rica’s dense wilderness? Either way, here they are, hemming in the city-dwellers like a horseshoe.

Most travellers see San José as little more than a required stop-over after landing late into or before flying early out of the country. But the city is small – you can virtually walk from one end to the other in an hour – so those who can afford not to rush through are rewarded with insight into the country’s history and a city that is topping lists of “ones to watch” for good reason.

The city by night (Visit Costa Rica)

Things to do

A trip to the theatre

Modelled after Paris’s Palais Garnier opera house, Costa Rica’s National Theatre is the city’s pride and joy. You can step inside for free, but a tour of the impressive upper levels costs around ₡4,000 (£4.90), or tickets for live shows – everything from reggae to classical – are around ₡19,000.

Go to market

Head to the city’s Central Market to stock up on healing herbs, cheap souvenirs and fresh flowers. Costa Ricans are big on counter culture, so you’ll find plenty of locals ordering hot, handmade snacks such as chorreada (made with corn, milk and sugar) wrapped in banana leaf and served with coffee. The passages in the market are narrow – leave your big backpack behind – but vibrant and home to inexpensive gifts, spices and delicacies.

Get an art fix at CPC

The Centro de Patrimonio Cultural (CPC) is a hidden gem, too, with free exhibitions just off Calle 1 – when we last visited, enormous canvases by Leonardo Rojas explored the indigenous Boruca people’s concept of “Siwa”, humankind’s direct connection with nature and the environment.

Take in a festival

Every May, Chepe de Moda takes over the city with fabulous art tours hosted by local creatives, and some of the loveliest old buildings transformed into galleries and pop-up cinemas. The Centro de Cine in the Amón district is also worth a peek for its candyfloss-coloured exterior. Or, for a glimpse at the old capital’s Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, hop on a train at Atlantic Railroad Station to Cartago, 50 minutes away – it’s well worth the detour.

A communal area at Selina hotel (Selina hotels)

Where to stay

Selina is a hotel-hostel-coworking hybrid that even the locals like hanging out in. If the idea of a hostel makes you think of creaking bunks and questionable cleanliness, Selina will change your mind. There’s everything from private rooms to mixed dorms, depending on your budget, and great facilities, from its miniature cinema to its rooftop bar. There are salsa classes every Tuesday night, happy hours and yoga sessions, plus it’s walking distance from all of the places mentioned in this guide. Doubles with private bathrooms from £89, room only. selina.com/costa-rica/san-jose

For something more upscale, Hotel Presidente is a family business with a fascinating history – as suggested by the industrial antique sewing machines in the lobby – and a rooftop bar. Bedrooms are simple, but the huge, cool beds and buffet breakfast with fresh fruit and vats of coffee are exactly what you need to jettison the jetlag. Doubles from £118, room only. hotel-presidente.com

Outdoor dining at Silvestre (Silvestre)

Where to eat

Some of the city’s best restaurants and cafés come under the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it category. Few have obvious signs, several are tucked into garage-sized spaces, and many don’t make it into the guide books.

At La Esquinita de la Abuela (Grandmother’s little corner), traditional Tico dishes such as gallo pinto and picadillos go for around £3 per plate in a restaurant that looks like a real Tico home. Or head to El Acapulco, which serves up bocas (like tapas) under a clock that tells the time in Albacete, Spain, where the owner grew up.

Barrio Escalante is a trendy neighbourhood to the east of the city with global influences: Kan’s perfect pizza has a gorgeously garlicky base and crispy crusts; meanwhile, summer rolls come with a side of finely sliced mango salad at Arbol de Seda.

Celebrating something special? Indigenous-inspired Sikwa has live DJs every Wednesday night, while Silvestre’s eight-course menu (affordable at £64 a head, or more for optional wine pairings) is a sophisticated crash course in Tico cuisine.

Food at Sikwa, San Jose (Sikwa)

Where to drink

Anyone who’s perused a tea and coffee aisle in the UK will know that Costa Rica is a full of excellent beans. You’ll find the best quality coffee at pretty pit stop Cafeoteca, or handed over the pastry counter at Kam Breakfast & Bakery.

Cold artisan brews last no time at all at the Costa Rica Beer Factory, while Apotecario has live music and stellar cocktails. Or head to the Gran Hotel and take the lift to the fifth floor for cocktails accompanied by live piano, where you can get a fantastic view of the theatre and main square below.

Where to shop

Central Market is a must visit – but most of the souvenirs are made in China, so if you want something authentically Costa Rican and made by local artisans, head to Tienda Eñe. The space – part shop, part gallery – is filled with lovely handmade ceramics, silk scarves printed with carreta designs and utilitarian bags made by inmates at UAI Reinaldo Villalobos prison.

A creative coffee at Kam Breakfast & Bakery (Kam Breakfast & Bakery)

Nuts and bolts

What currency do I need?

Colones (₡) but most venues also accept US dollars.

What language do they speak?

Spanish, but most also speak English.

Should I tip?

Tipping is not required on top of the typical inbuilt service charge, but drivers may expect 10 per cent extra.

What’s the time difference?

Costa Rica is seven hours behind the UK.

How should I get around?

Walk.

What’s the best view?

From Gran Hotel’s fifth floor or Hotel Presidente’s rooftop bar.

Insider tip?

Try and avoid paying in dollars; you’ll lose out as bills get rounded up, and if the notes are even a little bit damaged, some places won’t accept them.

Getting there

Trying to fly less?

Container ships regularly travel from Le Havre in France to Latin America, including Costa Rica’s Puerto Limon. From here, it’s a few hours by bus to San José.

Fine with flying?

British Airways flies direct from Heathrow to San José during high season, but otherwise you’ll have to stop over, usually in Madrid, New York or Dallas. San José airport is a 45-minute drive from the centre of town, a little longer if there’s traffic.