From Brittany to Bordeaux: take an unmissable food and drink tour along France’s west coast
For the ultimate, indulgent foodventure, take a ferry to Brittany and work your way around the region’s culinary highlights
Okay, you’d be hard-pressed to find any region of France that doesn’t have fantastic food and drink, but Brittany, spanning the country’s north-west, is hard to beat. What’s more, it’s easily reached from Portsmouth via the aptly-named Brittany Ferries, where you can set off on a tasty road trip, starting from the gateway port town of St Malo. This charming, historic walled city, with its beautiful natural harbour and alluring sandy beaches, was founded back around 1BC and has weathered attacks from the British, pirates, and German WW2 bombers through the centuries, making it the perfect setting for a fascinating foodie road trip that’s edifying in every sense of the word.
As you might imagine, Brittany’s proximity to the sea means you’ll find plenty of local seafood, from oysters to mussels and scallops – try La Cabane, for its wonderful seafood buffet, where you can literally eat as much as you like, or the stylish Restaurant Le Petit Be, situated within the ramparts, where amid the delicious, fresh fish you’ll also find meat and vegetarian dishes. Don’t miss other Breton specialities such as crêpes and galettes, both variations on a thin pancake made with wheat flour or buckwheat, with both sweet and savoury fillings; you’ll find several good crêperies around the port, like Le Tournesol or Le Gallo, with an inventive range of ingredients, from smoked salmon to asparagus. Then walk it off with a stroll across to the nearby, tiny island of Grand Be, home to the ruins of an ancient fort.
Cider country
Continue your gastronomic journey by heading west along the wild and jagged Côte d’Emeraude (romantically named ‘The Emerald Coast’ after the glittering green shade of the sea). Make a stop at Sillon de Talbert, at the tip of the Trégor peninsula, a naturally-formed, long, thin sliver of land made up of sand and pebbles. It’s a magnet for seabirds and shellfish, and protected seaweed – known as ‘wrack’ – grows on its rocky shores. Shrimps, Palourde clams, spider crabs and more are harvested here, as is the wrack; for centuries, this seaweed was collected by boat and basket, but today they use tractors.
Fancy trying a local tipple? As you start heading south, you’re heading into cider territory. Build in a stay and sample this sharp, refreshing, apple-based beverage around Argol; the Maison du Cidre, a farm and working factory, offers tours of its orchard and you’ll see how the cider is produced, as well as trying it for yourself. Nearby, as you carry on hugging the Atlantic coastline, you’ll encounter some fascinating natural highlights, such as the Carnac stones, a series of prehistoric menhirs (standing stones) dating from Neolithic times.
Traditional treats
Your next gourmet stop is Nantes, a handsome city sitting on the River Loire, with many unmissable sights such as the magnificent, 15th century Château des Ducs de Bretagne, the Gothic Nantes Cathedral, and the Jardin des Plantes, the city’s beautiful botanic gardens. But it’s also known for exceptional food, and some of its best traditional products include Curé Nantais, a soft, cow’s milk cheese originally made by a priest; Challans duck, usually cooked with local Muscadet wine and apples; rigolettes, fruity, jelly-based sweets filled with jam; and Petit Beurre, a crunchy biscuit with ridged edges (you can still see the very Instagrammable, art deco exterior of the original LU factory which used to produce them). Grab yourself a slice of gateau Nantais – a rich, moist cake with a hint of rum – at a patisserie such as Maison Grimaud or Esthete, or indulge in lunch or dinner somewhere fabulous, like the richly-decorated La Cigale.
Still craving seafood? Make for the charming seaside resort town of Arcachon, best known for its oyster harvests. Be dazzled by the architecture of its splendid villas before sampling a platter somewhere like the Oyster Bar at Arcachon Market. Nearby is Europe’s highest dune (at 104m), Dune de Pilat, perfect for a post-prandial stroll.
Finally, you need to end with some of France’s best wine. Turn inland towards Bordeaux, the world’s most famous wine-producing region, and head for the world heritage mediaeval village of St Emilion. Best known for its Grands Crus. Spend a day or two visiting vineyards – try Chateau La Gaffeliere, or Chateau Mangot – and tasting – and don’t forget to buy a few bottles, as it couldn’t be simpler to take them back to Britain, along with any other delicious souvenirs, on the ferry.
How to get there
A relaxing, indulgent ferry trip makes for the perfect, planet-friendly form of transport
Travel with ease via a direct sailing route with Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth to St Malo with flexible bookings; overnight crossings depart several times per week, and you can travel with your own vehicle or on foot. The evening departure means you can enjoy dinner, and their award-winning service, on board, French-influenced food and drink, and a range of entertainment, from live music to the latest movies. Relax in one of the spacious lounge areas before retiring to your luxury two- or four-berth cabin, before waking up around 11 hours later in France.
What’s more, with Brittany Ferries one of the first companies to be awarded the ‘Green Marine Europe’ eco-label – a guarantee of their actions towards increasingly eco-responsible maritime transportation – you can travel safe in the knowledge that you’ve opted for a more planet-friendly option, from the eco-steering software that optimises routes, and self-sufficient water facilities on-board. They have also invested in four liquefied natural gas (LNG) vessels, which include two ships powered by hybrid technology, currently used on many of their Spanish crossings and which will operate on their French routes in the future.
Enjoy a simpler, easier holiday via ferry to France or Spain with Brittany Ferries. With budget-friendly Early Bird bookings and flexible ticket options, you can book the perfect trip with complete confidence for a low deposit. Sailing from Portsmouth, Poole or Plymouth, it’s the perfect way to enjoy hassle-free travel without airport queues or baggage charges, while enjoying sea views and incredible on-board amenities – making your whole holiday unforgettable from start to finish. Find out more and book now at Brittany Ferries. Brittany Ferries are rated Excellent on Trustpilot. They are also winners of the 2022 British Travel Awards for Best Ferry Company, Best Travel Company to Central/Western Europe, Best Travel Company to Southern Europe/Canaries and Best Travel Company for Family Holidays.
