Plate With A View: Vertigo, Bangkok

Lucy Gillmore
Saturday 15 May 2004 00:00 BST
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THE PLATE

THE PLATE

To be honest you don't come here for the food. Billed, rather grandly, as the highest roof-top restaurant in the world, Vertigo, on the 61st floor of the luxurious Banyan Tree hotel, lords it high above Bangkok. The open-air restaurant on staggered levels is a stylishly designed space, but it's the views that leave you breathless.

Our meal was disappointingly uninspiring and served with indigestion-inducing speed. We had the four-course set menu: the Vertigo Caesar salad to start, then the lychee and Sichuan pepper sorbet to clean the palate followed by the loin of lamb in a Japanese Green Tea crust on sautéed water spinach and truffle-mashed potato - tasty but lukewarm. For dessert, the chocolate om ali with apple sherbet scented with sake was a strangely unidentifiable concoction.

THE VIEW

Totally spectacular. You really do feel as though you're perched on top of the world. Bangkok's cityscape comprising miles of soaring skyscrapers, the river Chao Praya snaking through the jumble of buildings to the west, is spread before you. As night falls, millions of lights twinkle mesmerisingly. It has to be one of the most romantic dinner locations you could find anywhere in the world.

THE BILL

The four-course set menu costs 2,500 baht (£35.50) a head without drinks. However, it's worth it for the panoramic sweep of Bangkok. Alternatively head up to the Moon Bar at the far end of the terrace and enjoy the view for the cost of a cocktail.

Vertigo Grill Restaurant 00 66 2 679 1200; www.banyantree.com). Open 5pm-12am, weather permitting

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