Is it safe to visit Hong Kong right now?

The definitive guide to travelling to Hong Kong during the protests

Much of Hong Kong’s transport has run into issues – ferries are one of the few modes that have been left unscathed (Getty)

The Star Ferry chugging across Victoria Harbour, neon towers glittering below The Peak, dim sum baskets stacked high like skyscrapers... Hong Kong’s typical postcard scenes have recently been eclipsed by a non-stop stream of violent clashes. As the city reels from more than four months of anti-extradition bill demonstrations, here’s what you need to know about how the protests will affect your visit.

What are the protests about?

Mass demonstrations kicked off in June in response to a proposed extradition bill, which included an agreement with mainland China. While the Hong Kong government argued it would plug legal loopholes, opponents feared the bill would enable the central government to extradite political dissidents on false pretences and try them in the country’s opaque legal system.

As a Special Administrative Region of China, Hong Kong is semi-autonomous, operating on the principle of “One Country, Two Systems” and guided by its own mini-constitution called the Basic Law. The city currently enjoys freedoms that aren’t seen elsewhere in mainland China, including free speech, an independent media and the right to peaceful assembly.

Following two mass rallies in June – one of which more than 2 million people (out of the city’s 7.4 million population) attended, according to organisers – Chief Executive Carrie Lam still refused to withdraw the bill and, as the weeks went on, protesters’ demands expanded to include an independent inquiry into police behaviour and adoption of universal suffrage, among others.

After more bloodshed in August, Lam vowed to withdraw the bill when the Legco session resumes on 16 October. In the meantime, violence has escalated considerably, with police regularly deploying rubber bullets, beanbag rounds, tear gas, water cannon and, in some cases, live ammunition. On the other side, protesters have reportedly attacked officers, lit fires, thrown petrol bombs and damaged property.

What’s the latest?

At the start of October, the government invoked a colonial-era law called the Emergency Regulations Ordinance, which enables leaders to make “any regulations whatsoever which he may consider desirable in the public interest”. This could include anything from limited telecommunications to property seizures, transit control or deportation.

So far, they have harnessed the law to ban masks or any kind of “facial covering” that can prevent identification. As you could have predicted, protesters fiercely rebelled against the ban and more chaos ensued. Currently, there are protests nearly every night of the week, though most of the action tends to take place on weekend evenings.

Have tourist areas been affected?

Yes, but not continuously. Unlike many protests, which pick a core spot and report back every day, Hong Kong demonstrators have been known to shift course quickly. It’s common for the protests to block an area for two hours, then be vacant three hours later. Hence their slogan: “Be like water”, inspired by a Bruce Lee saying.

Many tourist areas have been affected: Central and Admiralty (particularly near the government buildings), Mong Kok (near the Ladies’ Market), Tsim Sha Tsui (near the Star Ferry and major shopping malls), and Nathan Road (near the Temple Street Market and Jade Market). Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, one of the city’s most prominent shopping districts, have also seen many protests.

What about getting around?

Hong Kong’s famously efficient Mass Transit Railway (MTR) has regularly been targeted because protesters believe the company has colluded with police. As a result, various MTR stations have been vandalised and, this week, service has been temporarily suspended at some stations.

Recently, the MTR has also started closing stations earlier than usual, around 8 or 9pm, so it’s best to check the company’s website and leave extra time to get around. In addition, protesters and police have, at times, barricaded large highways and cross-harbour tunnels, which can leave you stranded. Check news and social media before leaving for your destination, then choose the best mode of transport – be it a taxi, tram, MTR, bus or Star Ferry – for the evening.

Does it affect passengers transiting through the airport?

In August, Hong Kong International Airport was forced to cancel hundreds of flights due to mass protests in the arrivals and departure halls, which blocked travellers from checking in. However, since the most recent incident, the airport has increased security and there have not been further issues thus far. Even so, it’s best to arrive two hours earlier than normal in case of transit disruptions.

Is it safe to visit?

While it’s not unsafe everywhere, it’s certainly not the best time to visit Hong Kong. The chance of danger is simply higher than usual and you must stay vigilant at all times. It will likely not be the ‘convenient’ or ‘easy’ Hong Kong you envisioned, nor will it be the most carefree. The city feels sad and sombre, and there’s tangible tension in the air.

How can I track when and where the protests will take place?

Keep up to date with local media, including the live blogs of CNN or the South China Morning Post (SCMP). Download the SCMP app for real-time notifications, and reference the MTR’s website for transit updates. On social media, you can follow hashtags like HKProtest and #antiELAB to stay on top of the latest movements.

Though it’s currently only available in Traditional Chinese, this live HK Map provides a quick visual of where protesters and police are gathering. The dog icon means the city’s riot police have been spotted; the camera refers to live video footage; and police cars are self-explanatory.

What can tourists do if they’re caught in the protests?

If you find yourself stuck, it’s best to find shelter in a nearby building or attempt to leave the area via one of Hong Kong’s many side streets. As the UK Foreign Office suggests: “The situation around protests and public gatherings can change quickly, with the potential for violence, especially during unauthorised protests. If you’re in an area where demonstrations are taking place, you should remain vigilant, follow the advice of local authorities and move away quickly to a safe place if there are signs of disorder.”

I’m going to Hong Kong despite the protests. How can I make the most of it?

Much of the territory is still safe to explore. For instance, The Peak, one of the city’s major attractions, is so far unscathed. You can also visit outlying islands like Cheung Chau or Lamma, or head to the Southside of Hong Kong island – home to beach towns like Stanley, Shek O and Repulse Bay.

“For action seekers, the Southside and Sai Kung have some of the best hiking trails on the island,” recommends Sarah-Jane Radcliffe, the general manager of Jacada Travel Hong Kong. “Take to the water, charter a junk for the day and cruise the South China Sea. There are plenty of water activities available from jet skiing and banana boating to stand-up paddling and wakeboarding.”

How is it affecting local businesses?

“The hospitality industry has been very badly affected with staff having to take unpaid leave and hotels running at as little as 4 per cent occupancy,” says Radcliffe. “Shops, restaurants, and tours have often opted to close on weekends and many establishments are fighting hard just to pay staff wages.”

“Small businesses and locally-led tours with less capacity for loss have been the hardest hit with many having to close down. The government has offered incentives to landlords to lower commercial rents to try and help keep the local industries alive.”

To support local businesses, Radcliffe suggests shopping at lifestyle complexes like PMQ and Tai Kwun – two heritage restoration projects that now house some of the city’s best indie boutiques and restaurants. “Burgeoning design hubs like PMQ for local wares from bamboo sunglasses to hand-painted scarves and then pop down to the antique shops of Hollywood Road for a more lasting souvenir.”

When will it end?

There is no end in sight, unfortunately. The government has yet to develop a plan or establish meaningful dialogue – and neither side shows signs of backing down. If nothing changes, it seems tensions will be running high for some time to come.