Why this African country is the ultimate winter sun escape
No jet lag from western Europe, sublime stretches of beach, and possibly the best jollof rice in the region – Vivienne Dovi reveals why Senegal is not simply a warm holiday spot but a vibrant cultural experience
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As I climb the steps to the colossal bronze African Renaissance Monument in Dakar, I’m in awe of the unhurried pace of life around me. Locals and tourists embrace the day’s easy rhythm while hanging out with friends or capturing memories. Opting for a tour inside, I eventually find myself in a narrow lift to ascend to the top. Through a tiny window, I watch the sky ignite with the setting sun. The Senegalese horizon painted in oranges and pink hues never fails to remind me that I’ve truly found a special place.
Senegal is an escape from Europe to get some winter sun, but is also so much more; the warmth that envelops me as I step off the plane in Dakar isn’t just due to the temperatures that hover in the high 20s from November to May. It’s the warmth of its people and the soul of this west African nation that truly sets it apart.
While pristine beaches might initially draw you in, you’ll stay for teranga – a Wolof (the largest ethnic group in Senegal) word that loosely translates to hospitality and is prevalent throughout the country. In practice, it’s the essence of Senegalese culture. You’ll notice a deep sense of community that welcomes you not as a tourist, but as an honoured guest in a collective home.
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The spirit of teranga is palpable as I stroll through Village Artisanal de Soumbedioune. Here, local artisans greet me with a warm “salam alaikum” (peace be upon you) as they work on their crafts. When I explain what I’m looking for in broken French, they eagerly walk me to where I need to be, even offering attaya tea – even though I wasn’t planning to buy from their stall. After trying on brass rings, a tradesman resizes them for me before we playfully negotiate the price.
Wandering into the nearby Medina quarter in Dakar, I take in the vibrant murals that highlight Senegal’s artistic soul. Art and fashion are part of the fabric of a nation, which countless talented photographers, videographers, artisans, models and designers call home. The city has also hosted Dak’Art, Africa’s largest biennial art exhibition, since 1990. Chanel gave its seal of approval in December 2022 by choosing Senegal for its first fashion show on the African continent.
Senegal’s cultural significance runs deep. It’s the birthplace of Négritude, the literary and ideological movement that celebrated Black identity and culture, influencing thinkers worldwide. As I admire these murals and visit exhibitions with contemporary installations throughout the city, I’m happy to witness the ongoing effect of a cultural revolution.
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To truly understand Senegalese culture, you need to experience its hospitality first hand. Being my fourth visit to the country, I have the privilege of being invited to a friend’s family home. They welcome me to join them for a communal dish of thieboudienne – rice and vegetables cooked in a well-seasoned tomato-based stew, served with fish. This dish, created in the northern city of Saint Louis in the 19th century, has sparked friendly rivalry within west Africa, with many countries claiming to have the best jollof rice. It’s a testament to Senegal’s influence on essential cooking practices across the region, but also the excellent quality of their food; in my numerous visits, I’ve yet to come across a disappointing meal.
You can stay busy in mainland Dakar, but you can’t go wrong with a quick escape. You can travel to the coastal city of Saly, less than two hours away, or take a traditional pirogue boat from the shore of Dakar to tiny Ngor Island. Spend time wandering the sandy pathways before settling on a sun lounger to watch the calm waters. Before I head back, I feast on fresh grilled fish paired with perfectly fried sweet plantain from a waterside eatery.
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For those with limited time, Virage Beach offers paradise without leaving the mainland. The Atlantic Ocean’s crashing waves provide me with a soothing soundtrack for lazy days and a playground for surfers. On a December afternoon, watching surfers from Copacabana Surf Village remains one of my favourite things to do.
Another day winds down at my favourite spot, Plage des Mamelles. The horizon once again transforms into a canvas of warm hues. I find it hard to pinpoint exactly when I knew I wanted to make Senegal my future home. Maybe it was during a quiet afternoon at Lac Rose, where the sun bounces off pink waters, or during a heartfelt conversation with a local where his love for his country was resonating through his words.
What I do know is that Senegal offers something special: a chance to slow down, to connect and to experience a culture that values community and hospitality above all. With Senegal sharing a time zone with western Europe, there’s no jet lag for you to contend with – just immersion and relaxation in a country that will capture your heart as much as it has captured mine.
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