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Reims city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in France’s foodie, champagne-swilling hotspot
A short train ride from Paris, this indulgent, history-packed city is a glorious base for champagne tasting and top food, says Alicia Miller
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Your support makes all the difference.If the Gallic royal pedigree or notable war history doesn’t get your attention, the wine sure will: Reims is the city of champagne, the world’s most famous fizz. A direct 45-minute train ride from Paris, and largely walkable, it requires neither wheels nor an outrageous budget to enjoy – although, if you want decadence, you sure can get it.
You’ll spend your weekend hopping between the Unesco-listed chalk cellars beneath the great champagne houses, taking in the coronation relics of the French kings and poking around fromage-scented food shops. And, of course, popping a few corks…
What to do
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims
Start at Reims’ crowning glory, its Unesco-listed cathedral, where 33 French kings have been crowned over the past thousand years. While much of the city was destroyed in the First and Second World Wars, this Gothic masterpiece somehow emerged still standing. Its few necessary postwar restorations only made it all the more majestic; for example, its stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall. Free entry; 7.30am-7.30pm.
Palais du Tau
After being crowned, all those kings had their slap-up banquets next door at the Palais du Tau – now a museum stuffed with precious coronation relics, sculptures, tapestries and photographs of the cathedral’s postwar reconstruction. It’s worth an hour of your time – when planning your days, do note that this Palais closes at lunchtime. Entry €8 (£6.70); usually 9.30am-12pm and 2pm-5.30pm, though summer hours vary.
Musée de la Reddition
Discover a whole other chapter to Reims’ history at the Musée de la Reddition, a short walk north of the central train station. This unassuming corner of a former technical college is where the Second World War ended on 7 May 1945, when German forces signed a surrender agreement. The room where the big moment took place remains preserved just as it was that day, down to the war maps on the walls. Entry €5; 10am-6pm.
Champagne Taittinger
Now that the history lesson’s over, it’s time for a toast. You can pre-book tours at dozens of champagne houses in Reims’ city centre, many perched regally on the main artery of Boulevard Lundy. The largest family-owned house – Taittinger – should be top of your agenda, not only for its relaxed vibe but for its superb caves (the Roman-era chalk mines now used as cellars for ageing the wine). The caves here were used as an underground hospital during the First World War – look out for vintage soldier graffiti carved into the walls. From €27 with tasting; book a timed slot in advance.
Champagne Lacourte-Godbillon
While it does require a 15-minute taxi ride from the city centre, nothing beats trying champagne right at the source – among the vines. Based in pretty premier cru village Écueil, 11th-generation grower Geraldine Lacourte-Godbillon manages her organic and biodynamic pinot noir and chardonnay vineyard with her husband, pressing everything carefully on site on a boutique scale. The welcome is warm, and the wine is delicious. If you thought champagne was all faceless big brands, think again. Tastings by appointment.
Where to stay
You’ll wake to a view of Reims cathedral when you stay at La Caserne Chanzy, a swish modern hotel set in an old fire station. There’s an onsite spa with thermal pools (book ahead, it’s popular) but the real highlight is the brasserie, which turns out impeccable three-course prix fixe lunch menus for a reasonable €34. Doubles from €249 (£210), B&B. lacasernechanzy.com
A brief suitcase’s wheel from the central train station, Hôtel Azur doesn’t compromise on style just because the rooms are a total bargain. Expect loud wallpaper, metallic pendant lights and a cute patio. It has bedrooms fit for solo travellers, and ones for a family of three or four, too. Doubles from €75, room only. hotel-azur-reims.com
If you want all-out indulgence – and have the budget to match – Domaine Les Crayères serves up chateau-esque environs, rambling gardens and impeccable service. The 20 bedrooms are full-on Maire Antoinette maximalism with toile de Jouy prints, gild-framed oil paintings and, in some cases, balconies. For an extra €37 you’ll get a Michelin-quality breakfast spread with perfect pastries and buttery scrambled eggs. Doubles from €490, room only. lescrayeres.com
Where to eat
Seafood doesn’t get fresher than at Le Bocal. This tiny, laid-back restaurant near Reims’ market is set above a fishmonger. Check out the aquatic display of claws and shells on ice downstairs, then order oysters, prawns, mussels and scallops for a lunchtime feast. There is – obviously – an excellent champagne list to match.
Great wines by the glass are also a feature at Aux 3 P’tits Bouchons, a wine shop and bar around the corner. In the evening join cool locals and visiting Parisian couples sipping organic and natural glasses – and devouring veggie burgers – in the moodily lit, laid-back space.
After classic bistro fare? Every lunch hour, you’ll find unassuming Le Grisbi (3 Rue de l’Écu) stuffed with locals, all of whom come to chinwag with the owner as much as feast on France’s greatest hits. You’re not here for the décor – the retro cinematic theme is slightly random – but for the friendly service and bargain steak frites (€12.50!).
Reims is stuffed with Michelin-rated haunts, but if you’re going to try one, two-starred Le Parc really is worth the (admittedly massive) outlay. It’s not just the grand old dining room overlooking a manicured lawn, or even the millionaire’s-choice wine list. It’s the hyper-local focus of chef Philippe Mille’s food. Think intricate tuiles modelled after the rose window of Reims’s cathedral, or jellies made from chardonnay grapes. Tasting menu will set you back about €200.
Where to drink
With garish English signage and a location on the main station strip, The Glue Pot looks exactly like the kind of place savvy travellers would avoid. But go against that instinct and head inside: you’ll be welcomed by a cosy retro pub ambiance and a great value by-the-glass champagne list stuffed with artisan names. There is a DJ on some nights, too.
You won’t be short of places to drink champagne here, but if you’re craving a bit more variety, make for relaxed Le Cul Sec, in the east of the town. As well as plenty of fizz, this place also has reds from Bordeaux, Alsace and Beaujolais, and rosés from the Rhone and Languedoc.
For that morning pick-me-up after the night before, Holy Shot (38 Rue de Talleyrand), just off of Reims’s main shopping strip, has the goods. Flat whites, frappes, noisettes (the French version of macchiato) – however you like your caffeine, they’ll do a top-notch version here.
Just want a classic French al fresco café? Make for greenery-trimmed Place du Forum, where café tables fill the square next to some Roman ruins. You can sip coffees or pastis while engaging in Reims’s best people-watching from a couple of different cafes.
Where to shop
Reims has some decent clothing shops along north-south strip Rue de Talleyrand – but to be honest, you’re not here for labels or homewares. If you haven’t guessed it yet, you’re here for drink – and food.
Stop off at Reims’s market, Halles Boulingrin, for a browse; you probably aren’t planning on taking home fresh produce, but it’s still fun to browse. Plus the Art Deco architecture is worth a look.
Around the corner, Trésors de Champagne is stuffed with smaller fizz producers that you might not find at home. Ditto with Cave des Sacres, by the cathedral, which is also one of the few shops open on a Sunday.
Like many French cities, Reims has its own signature treat – a pink biscuit, which makes for great gifts. The most traditional version is by Fossier, the country’s oldest biscuit factory, founded in 1756. You’ll find an alternative interpretation at La Petite Friande, which makes chocolates in the same rosy hue.
Architectural highlight
The must-see cathedral aside, Musée Hôtel Le Vergeur (2pm-6pm) is worth your time. This photogenic half-timbered home has a lovely little garden, and interiors that show off what life was like in Reims back in the day.
Nuts and bolts
What currency do they use?
Euros.
Should I tip?
There is not a huge tipping culture in Reims or indeed in France; if you have a couple of extra euros in change after a meal, leave them behind.
How should I get around?
Reims is largely walkable, though it pays to plan your itinerary carefully, as from tip-to-tip a stroll will take around an hour.
What’s the best view of the city?
From Rue Rockefeller, staring towards the front face of Reims’s majestic cathedral.
Insider tip
As you explore the city, look out for the history signs dotted at regular intervals. They are genuinely interesting – and, handily, written in English as well as French.
Getting there
Trying to fly less?
Reims is entirely reachable by rail from the UK. The city is a 45-minute train ride from Paris Gare de l’Est, which is a 10-minute walk from Gare du Nord, where the Eurostar arrives.
Fine with flying?
Several airlines, including British Airways and EasyJet, fly from the UK to Paris, a 45-minute train ride from Reims.
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