Toulouse's long trek nears a happy end

Ntamack sees a bright tomorrow at last for aristocrats of French rugby

When Toulouse lifted the inaugural European Cup in 1996, many expected them to do a Real Madrid, and dominate the tournament's early years. Their charismatic captain, Emile Ntamack, could have been the Puskas or Di Stefano, and among the midwives to rugby's cross-border baby, only Cardiff came anywhere near matching the French club's infrastructure and support.

Ntamack has vivid memories of scoring in the competition's first match, watched by 500 curious souls in the incongruous setting of Constanta, a fading Romanian resort on the Black Sea, and he has continued to run in tries on a regular basis the length and breadth of the continent. But though the very fabric of the Heineken Cup is shot through with the red-and-black of Stade Toulousain – they share with Munster the record of 45 matches played – they have never been back to the final. Last season, what's more, the 16-times French champions won nothing at all. "It was not acceptable to a club like Toulouse," said Ntamack. "We need a trophy this year. We've got the potential to win the European Cup. It would be our gift to the city."

It is a reference to the darkest hour of la ville rose. Just over a year ago, an explosion ripped through the AZF chemical plant in the Toulouse suburbs. Largely ignored by the outside world in the long shadow of 11 September, France's worst industrial accident claimed the lives of 30 people, with hundreds more injured and thousands of homes wrecked. Stade Toulousain switched their opening Heineken Cup match against Leinster away to Dublin, and lost. They failed to qualify for the quarter-finals.

In happier times, the then 25-year-old Ntamack hoisted the original Heineken Cup, a spindly affair featuring the sponsor's star and a set of goalposts. The trophy fell apart within months, but the team's backline of all the talents endured – if not all in Toulouse.

"It was a wonderful year," Ntamack recalled. "An extraordinary time for the club. We won the French Championship, the European Cup and the French Cup. We introduced Thomas Castaignède to international viewers, and there was Philippe Carbonneau [twice a finalist subsequently with Brive] and Christophe Deylaud alongside. As a club, we have always valued the backs, men like Pierre Villepreux in the 1960s and 1970s, a little like the Barbarians or Llanelli. Perhaps the exception was Jean-Claude Skrela, but even he, as a very quick flanker, was almost an extra back in his day."

Now 32, Ntamack is seen more often in the centre than at full-back or wing. He is joint-captain this season with the lock forward and France skipper, Fabien Pelous. Who takes charge depends on selection. There is a feeling of quiet anticipation that what Ntamack calls "the new generation" of Toulouse backs are ready to pick up the mantle of the class of '96. Frédéric Michalak, Clément Poitrenaud and Nicolas Jeanjean have each been capped by France: they are 19, 20 and 21 respectively.

"Time passes, it's logical," said Ntamack, "but Stade Toulousain has got a new face. We started the season with three wins and a draw from five games, without playing our best. We have to hope we will be ready by next week."

The main problem has been at prop. There is the curious case of Andrea Lo Cicero, which somehow could only happen in France. The Italian prop cleared out his flat and vamoosed several weeks ago, citing ill health, yet popped up within the last fortnight playing two World Cup qualifiers for his country. What is happening with Lo Cicero?" I asked Ntamack. "Who's that?" he replied, and it took a moment to realise he was being sarcastic rather than having a language problem. Lo Cicero is clearly not expected back, adding to the departures of Franck Tournaire to Leicester and Christian Califano to Saracens. Hence last month's signing of Patrice Collazo from Gloucester.

Michel Marfaing, Toulouse's goal-kicking wing, is the Heineken Cup's all-time top try scorer with 24. Second is Ntamack, on 20. Both will be out to add to their totals in a pool that is difficult to judge. "London Irish are a strong, physical team," said Ntamack, "and I remember we had two hard games against Newport last year, one win each. We don't know Edinburgh well at all."

Toulouse's coach, the venerable Guy Noves, has been with the club in every European campaign. They have lost three semi-finals, to Leicester, Brive and Munster. "Our first few matches will show whether we have the potential to go on or not," said Noves. "As we say in French, 'appetite comes with eating'. I don't believe there is any significant gap between the French clubs and other nations. Apart from Leicester, who with their double victory are an exception, everyone is in the same boat."

London Irish are the visitors next Saturday to Stade des Sept Deniers, now redeveloped to hold 18,000 and renamed Stade Ernest Wallon, in honour of the club's first president and benefactor. "The European Cup opened French eyes and forced us to think differently," said Ntamack. "You work harder to be able to compete. It used to be three training sessions a week, now it's twice a day." Effort combined with élan: say salut to the new Toulouse.