Cream Of The Country: Woodstock

Inspector Morse fans flock to this Cotswold town. Graham Norwood investigates what it is like to live here

Woodstock has a split personality. On the one hand, it is a posh semi-rural commuter belt for those residents working in Oxford eight miles away; on the other, its charm and history make it an attraction in its own right.

There are low-key craft fairs in the town hall, while groups ranging from the Tuesday Tots to the Young Archaeologists to the Royal British Legion meet across the town. In the spring, there is even maypole dancing. But stroll around, and you will soon encounter outsiders - coachloads of visitors from around the world converge on Blenheim Palace or follow in the footsteps of TV's Inspector Morse, whose murder investigations often featured the town.

As part of the Cotswolds tourist route, along with nearby Stratford, Oxford and Stow-on-the-Wold, Woodstock is routinely packed with American and Japanese visitors - good news for local businesses but trying if you want a seat in a café or a quick pub meal.

"I'd be lying if I said tourists didn't get in the way of everyday life because they do - but they allow our everyday life to be much better because of their investment in the town," says Malcolm Smith, a retired resident of Woodstock for more than 20 years.

But would-be buyers undeterred by the busy streets can get beautiful, well-preserved homes, many of which are protected through listing and being in conservation areas.

Properties close to the centre and on most approaching roads are usually built of Cotswold stone, typically date from the late 18th century to early 20th, are often covered in ivy, and have oak beams, open fireplaces and stone walls inside. Less appealing post-war semis and more recent properties in a few streets such as Hensington Gate will offer more space and possibly parking, but will still typically be £250,000 or more. With few flats for first-time buyers in the town, the population is older than average, while dotted around the outskirts are much larger country houses and estates.

Nearby villages such as Coombe, Bladon, Thrupp and Kirtlington share the Woodstock postal address and offer more value for money - including parking - but they lack the cachet and facilities associated with living in the town. "Demand from buyers has been well down this year in Woodstock, just as it has been everywhere else, and consequently some sellers have had to trim prices," says a spokeswoman for Scott-Symonds, a local estate agent. "But the biggest demand by far is for small cottages, and these have gone for their asking price or very near it."

Woodstock is well-served for basics - there's a Co-Op grocery shop, a delicatessen, a newsagent and a stationery store, not to mention plenty of tearooms and around 20 B&Bs for visitors.

With tourism and coaches come traffic problems. Parking is difficult and few smaller older houses have garages, but most of the locals are happy to put up with the inconvenience for the pleasure of living in such a charming town.

Fact box

Cost of living: Two-bedroom cottages, most likely terraced, would be £250,000 on the outskirts, or £325,000 near the centre. Larger properties exceed £500,000 and frequently pass £1m. There is also a £10m estate for sale on the edge of the town.

Attractions: Monthly farmers' markets, an athletics team and dozens of societies. Places to see include Blenheim Palace, the seat of the Dukes of Marlborough since the 1700s and birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.

How to get there: Only 100 minutes' drive from London. Trains from Paddington to Oxford are frequent but slow. The drive from Woodstock to Oxford is slow on weekdays.

Downside: Town is heaving with tourists in the summer.