Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

Postcard from... Belgrade

 

Marie Dhumieres
Wednesday 31 October 2012 10:30 GMT
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

When I visited Borko's 15th floor flat in Belgrade, I commented on the stunning view from his rooftop terrace. He laughed: “Yeah it was a great spot to watch the Nato air raids too.”

The bombing campaign on Serbia in 1999 aimed at forcing Serbian leader Slobodan Milosevic's troops out of Kosovo, but Serbian civilians also paid a high price for it. Milosevic retreated, and Kosovo unilaterally declared its independence in 2008. Serbia still doesn't recognise it.

In Belgrade, the most visible, shocking reminder of the Kosovo war is the former Yugoslav Defence Ministry, above, bombed in '99 and left untouched. Entire wall sections and metal girders hang in the air in the middle of an upmarket area sharing a street lined with embassies.

Some say it was left intact as a reminder of what happened. But if someone made an offer to redevelop the land, the building would probably be scrapped.

A few kilometres down the same boulevard, Marija, a photographer, points out the former police headquarters, also bombed by Nato. "It was so humiliating to be bombed when I did nothing wrong," she tells me. Billboards were installed on the facade of the ruins a few years back, hiding the damage. The problem, she adds, was that no one thought people might be offended when the first poster to appear turned out to be a giant... Coca-Cola commercial. Local reaction was fierce and the poster was rapidly removed.

Yesterday, US State Secretary Hillary Clinton was in Belgrade, meeting the Serbian president and Prime Minister, to show her support and encourage... the Belgrade-Pristina dialogue.

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in