Master's eye is sorely missed in Gucci's first post-Ford collection
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Your support makes all the difference.The House of Gucci last night showed its first catwalk collection since the departure of its creative director Tom Ford.
The House of Gucci last night showed its first catwalk collection since the departure of its creative director Tom Ford.
The Milan menswear show for spring/summer 2005 is the first glimpse of Gucci's future after the regime change in April. For almost a decade Tom Ford has set the fashion world on fire with glamorous, retro-sexy Gucci collections that took the house back to its Studio 54 disco days.
Under the patriarchal eye of Domenico De Sole, the Gucci group acquired a stable of va-va-voom luxury labels such as Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga. Ford and De Sole were the architects who built this luxury goods empire to rival LVMH. Their departure in a boardroom coup leaves very large suede loafers to fill.
The fashion industry was understandably sceptical at the appointment of Robert Polet as Gucci CEO: a former president of Unilever's frozen food and ice cream division. Less surprising was the promotion of the Gucci menswear designer John Ray to creative director. The Scottish-born, Central Saint Martins-trained designer was deemed a safe pair of hands. He has been part of the Gucci family since 1996 and it had been rumoured that he was the workhorse while Tom added the finishing touches.
As a declaration of business as usual, Gucci chose to show at their usual venue. Champagne cocktails were served by black-clad, chiselled cheekboned waiters straight out of Central Casting. The show opened in mellow mood with ecru tunic tops embroidered with Indian silks.
Out stomped the buff boys in brief, brief swimming trunks with gold Gucci G buckles and leather trim. But line hammam robes looked more ethnic than Olympian. What can only be described as silk blouses with plunging scoop necks looked far too girlie for Gucci's core customer. Ivory and navy pinstripe suits had the sex appeal of Ford's Gucci but not with a butterfly print silk blouse beneath.
Whether Ford was a great stylist, editor or added crucial finishing touches, it is his sly eye and sexy grin that Gucci is missing this season.
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