Per Se: New York's 'best restaurant' trashed in New York Times review which likens one dish to bong water

Thomas Keller's Per Se has been a fixture on the foodie scene since 2004

Per Se (ThomasKeller.com)

You could most cetainly file this story under the category of “first world problems”.

But New York’s foodie scene has been left reeling about one of its most celebrated restaurants - indeed, one of the most celebrated in the world - was delivered a scathing review by the city’s most esteemed newspaper.

Ever since it opened its doors in 2004, the Per Se restaurant, owned and operated by chef and innovator Thomas Keller has been wowing people with its new American and French fare.

Thomas Keller (ThomasKeller.com)

The New York Times once called the eatery, part of Keller’s small but hugely influential food empire which also includes The French Laundry in California, the “best restaurant in New York”.

All the more shocking then, to read a review in the same newspaper that suggested that the restaurant had lost its world class status.

“The restaurant’s identity, to the extent that it has one distinct from that of its owner and chef, Thomas Keller, is based on fastidiously minding the tiniest details,” wrote reviewer Pete Wells.

“But, in three meals this fall and winter, enough other things have gone awry in the kitchen and dining room to make that theory seem unlikely. Enough, also, to make the perception of Per Se as one of the country’s great restaurants, which I shared after visits in the past, appear out of date.”

The restaurant is known for its tasting menu. In 2004, the year Per Se opened, the price for nine courses was $150 before tax and tip. Last week, it went up to $325, with service included, wrote Mr Wells.

“I don’t know what could have saved limp, dispiriting yam dumplings, but it definitely wasn’t a lukewarm matsutake mushroom bouillon as murky and appealing as bong water,” he wrote.

On and on he continued. Waiting service was bad, food was dull, staff uninterested. “Per Se is among the worst food deals in New York,” he concluded.

Mr Wells’s article, which unabashedly was targeted at those readers wealthy enough to be able splash out on a meal “that would cost the four of us close to $3,000”, sparked immediate attention. His piece, which by Wednesday morning had attracted more than 650 comments, was among the paper’s top trending stories.

On social media the reaction was immediate and strident.

“Thomas Keller will need a bong hit (probably several) after reading this @nytimes review for Per Se by @pete_wells,” wrote Eddie Lin.

“If you thought influence of NY Times in dining was waning, pay attention to what happens next at Per Se,” wrote Ben Leventhal.

Chase Madar wrote: “Pete Wells’ review of plutocrat eatery Per Se is a de facto endorsement of @BernieSanders.”

Per Se did not immediately respond to inquiries from The Independent on Wednesday. Its most recent twitter post was a tribute to David Bowie.