Trouble in paradise: Mexicans and Americans watch in disbelief at Trump fightback

‘I can’t believe we’re going to have four more years of this.’ Chris Havler-Barrett follows the election with American tourists and Mexican locals in the surf town of Puerto Escondido, and watches the mood change pretty quickly

All eyes are on the TV screens as another state election result is announced (Chris Havler-Barrett)

The surf resort of Puerto Escondido in Southern Mexico is a major destination for Americans heading south of the border. Nestled on the Pacific coast, it’s a haven for surfers and those looking for a quieter life under a sun that shines as brightly in November as it does in mid-July.

Jose Alberto runs a small beachfront bar in the popular nightlife district of La Rinconada.

“It’s a really important decision, so many people are watching,” he says. His bar is normally closed on a Tuesday night, but he has taken the decision to open and host an election party on his roof terrace, such is the interest here.  

When asked why he is so interested in the outcome, he is direct. “Sincerely, I think Trump is very racist. We Latinos deserve a leader that will respect us. Many people are coming tonight to see what happens.” 

The feeling that this election is of historic importance is shared across the Mexicans gathered here. Santiago, who operates a successful logistics supply company in Oaxaca – with plenty of US clients – thinks similarly. “Even though it’s not the best for my business, I would like Biden to win. I think he has more ideas – with oil for example, taking it away and replacing it with something better,” he says, as he stares intently at the CNN coverage that is on all four of the screens in the bar.

There are two clear camps here – local residents, many of whom lived or worked in the United States previously, and Americans who have come down from north of the border for a variety of reasons. Both groups are here tonight to support Joe Biden, but for very different purposes.

The Americans in attendance, who hold the majority in terms of numbers, came to celebrate (or commiserate) as the night progressed. As the evening commenced, there was something of a party atmosphere – every table had a bottle of mezcal – the de facto national drink of Mexico – in the centre, and as the results first trickled in, the cheers were getting progressively louder for every blue state, as the boos got increasingly vociferous for every Republican who appeared on screen.

The New Yorkers in attendance were particularly tense, with concerns of post-election violence running high. Likewise, a contingent of Californians had taken the decision to fly south until the result is confirmed, working remotely and planning to wait out the results, returning in December once the election has been settled.  

Rumours spread that a few miles away, in the surfer’s paradise of Zicatelas, an enormous piñata of Donald Trump was to be destroyed when the election results were announced. This caused some excitement among many of those who had already indulged in the bottles of mezcal in front of them.

Not everyone in attendance was feeling optimistic about the future, however. “You know s**t’s going to get bad when Walmart stops selling guns,” laughs Daniel, who returned to his native Mexico after many years living in Texas. “Never underestimate the stupidity of Americans – just ask anyone here.”

Jann has lived in Puerto Escondido his whole life, but due to the cosmopolitan nature of the city, has spent much of his working life side by side with American colleagues. The disdain that almost everyone present felt for the incumbent president of the United States was clear. “There’s five, six hundred kids in cages. He says we’re going to pay for the wall,” Jann said defiantly, his dislike for Trump clearly apparent.  

Sincerely, I think Trump is very racist. We Latinos deserve a leader that will respect us. Many people are coming tonight to see what happens

Jose Alberto

“Tonight is just an excuse to drink and say ‘Bring it on’. We know it’s going to be ugly in the next few weeks. Biden will win the popular vote but then it will go to the electoral college.”

He continues: “Mexicans say Trump will probably favour the Mexican government because the Mexican president is an asswipe.”

The most interesting development of the evening was the conversation among the Mexicans in attendance. The Mexican political environment is quickly becoming as tumultuous as that of their American neighbours, as Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador slips further into populism and public protests grow. The outcome in the election tonight is likely to have an impact on voting here in 2022 when the presidential elections next occur.  

The pressure during this election has been turned up as the personal relationship between Lopez Obrador and Trump has linked their perception among the Mexican public. Daniel, seated at the bar, is as derisive of Lopez Obrador as he is of Trump, as he begins to despair of the ever-closer race unfolding onscreen. “We’re all in the s**t. Even Mexico. The guy we have as president, the world’s gone to s**t. It’s a s**t show.”

Not everyone in Mexico is rooting for Biden – and this again reflects the current political climate in the country. “Some people don’t like Biden in Mexico because they say he’s basically in favour of the Mexican ex-presidents like Calderon, some of the old school fellows that the Mexicans don’t like,” Jann explains. “But at the same time, if you’re Mexican and you support Trump, you’re not a real Mexican.”

Four more years of Trump is likely to lead to four more years of Lopez Obrador in turn, as Mexico reaps the benefits of sustained US isolationism. For Mexicans like Daniel and Jann who have come here hoping to watch the collapse of the Trump empire, the prospect of either of these scenarios is sobering.

The mood darkens rapidly as it becomes apparent that the expected Biden victory looks unlikely. Most of the Mexicans, who were originally here to gloat, have slipped away. By the time the barman calls time on the evening, pandemonium has broken loose.

“F**k you, Maine,” shouts someone from across the room as the television projects a Susan Collins victory. “I can’t believe we’re going to have four more years of this s**t.” As Jose Alberto washes the last of the glasses, and wipes down the bar, many of the Americans who were in such high spirits earlier are crying.  

There are only a few stragglers left, finishing up their drinks before returning home. The party atmosphere that defined the first few hours of the results is gone, replaced instead by the morose and the miserable.

In the end, no matter what the result, Mexico is likely to gain in the short term. “At the end of the day, it is what it is.” remarks Jann. Daniel is less sanguine: “Perhaps we’ll all just get drunk and wake up in the morning and forget who won,” he says, leaning back in his chair. “I called it, but I hope I’m wrong.” Despite the lack of a Biden victory, the mood upstairs in the bar is clear, even if the outcome is not. Puerto Escondido is all in for Joe Biden.