Male grooming: Suits you, sir

A boom in make-up for men is breaking the final male grooming taboo. Jonathan Thompson reports

Even the most fashion conscious of men saw it as the final taboo. A spot of after-shave balm or moisturiser was one thing, but anything more was for women. Times, it seems, have changed. Gentlemen, brace yourselves and prepare to slap on the slap.

High-street chains, including Boots, Tesco and Superdrug, are embarking on big expansions of their male beauty products and move beyond facial softeners and moisturisers.

In upmarket department stores, male concealer, eyeliner and foundation are already flying off the shelves. Leading luxury brands such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Clinique and Clarins are scrambling to expand their lines to meet the boom in demand. Beauty for blokes is becoming big business.

In the UK, the male cosmetics market has grown by a staggering 800 per cent over the past seven years. Boots reports that male grooming is growing faster than any other beauty sector, and Tesco says that men are responsible for "soaring" sales in skincare and hair-removal products.

The logical next step is full-on cosmetics. Superdrug has also been watching the trend closely, and is preparing to launch a range aimed at men and women. This will include eyeliner, tinted lip balm and "eyebrow grooming gel".

Jeff Wemyss, Superdrug's beauty director, said men were becoming more comfortable with using products to improve their appearance.

"The merging of lines between beauty for men and women is a global trend that we are picking up on constantly," Mr Wemyss said. "Guys are just getting a lot more confident wearing make-up products. Fake tan started it all ... It's in tune with a general vanity drive."

According to the most recent figures from market analysts Datamonitor, men in the UK spend £920m on personal hygiene products each year, including about £65m on skincare products. The market for male grooming is expected to reach £1.5bn in two years.

The suppliers, particularly at the top end, are having a field day. Jean Paul Gaultier is enjoying notable success with its Tout Beau, Tout Propre collection of male make-up products that include eyeliner, bronzing powder and coloured lip balm.

Clinique has responded swiftly to the trend, offering unisex make-up products, plus a burgeoning men's line. Like Gaultier, it is planning a big expansion of its male products this year.

Julie Howard, Clinique's vice-president of product marketing, said the company was trialling new products for the range.

"In the men's market, we've seen a move from basic skincare to an increase in eyecare, wrinkle care and also lip care," she said. "Make-up is now an eventuality in this category ... The demand is absolutely there ... Many men start borrowing products from their girlfriends or wives, and then go on from there."

According to a recent survey for Gillette, the average man now spends 24 minutes a day on personal grooming. At least one in five now also regularly uses face creams.

At Tesco it's a similar story. The company has pinpointed those aged 15-34 at the heart of this upsurge, with sales up 15 per cent year on year among this group.

Barbara Daly, one of the country's most celebrated make-up artists, has designed a line of products for Tesco. "It is a huge trend," said Ms Daly, who made up Princess Diana on her wedding day. "Guys are definitely paying more attention to themselves, and our expectations are changing ... Men are very happy to have something on that enhances their appearance, as long as it isn't obviously perceptible."

THE PRODUCTS

From Gaultier's Tout Beau, Tout Propre range for men

1 Sharp Eyes - combined eyeliner and concealer (£15). An ingenious double-ended device disguised as a pen.

2 Better Than Tan bronzing powder (£28). Comes in a sturdy 'masculine' box and is applied with a traditional shaving-style brush. Available in two different tones.

3 Sneaky Kiss Nourishing Lip Balm (£11). Comes in three colours, adding moisture and volume to the lips. Shiny Lip Roll (£12) adds a touch of gloss.