Butterflies cluster to watch Yves strike a classic pose

The social butterflies who are long-standing devotees of Yves Saint Laurent sat clustered along the front row at his haute couture show yesterday. And they clapped as the master couturier sent jackets and dresses encrusted with exquisitely beaded butterflies down the runway at the Intercontinental Hotel.

The only trick in the collection was a play on a tuxedo jacket for which he is famed - the satin lapels were wrapped around the hips of "smoking" dresses for evening and cocktail skirts. After all, Saint Laurent has designed more than 60 haute couture collections, and is entitled to a bit of fun.

The majority of the clothes were without tricks or gimmicks. The classic mannish smoking trouser suit was there for those who could afford it. At a Saint Laurent show, the attention of the audience is firmly fixed on the beautifully crafted clothes with the eye straying only occasionally to glimpse Catherine Deneuve sitting serenely in her place of honour at the front of the catwalk.

Saint Laurent does not move with, or lead, fashion - he is on a plane all of his own. But his clothes are designed to accommodate women's bodies and not restrict them in any way - even if they are sizes bigger than a model eight.

Skirts were narrow but allowed freedom to move. Even long, shiny duchess satin dresses, reminiscent of 1930s Hollywood, did not cling to the body; there was room to breathe.

Saint Laurent's clothes are simple enough to stand strong colour. A cyclamen pink suit with formal structured shoulders was given a flash of perfectly judged cornflower blue scarf at the neck. But it would take bravery to wear a lapel-hipped dress in bands of green, turquoise, orange and violet.

The ruby heart, the necklace awarded by Saint Laurent to his favourite dress, was worn with a long, royal purple changeante ballgown. And the bride wore a brightly multi-coloured dress without so much as a hint of virginal white in sight.