Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

A fitted and finished twist for the Nineties

Roger Tredre,Fashion Correspondent
Thursday 09 July 1992 23:02 BST
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

MARC BOHAN, the French couturier who designs for the House of Hartnell, proved yesterday that the traditional skills of the couturier still have relevance in the Nineties.

Mr Bohan's autumn collection, shown at the Hartnell salon in Bruton Street, was a textbook lesson in fit and finish. Jackets were very fitted and long, and looked best worn with narrow skirts cut to below the calf.

Mr Bohan also produced pleated short skirts, for those Hartnell customers who still want to show off their legs.

Three-quarter length car coats in mohair and wool boucle were teamed with cashmere and wool crepe trouser suits, also fitted to flatter. Red was the predominant colour, with gold lace a strong theme for evening.

The ladies who feature regularly in Jennifer's Diary were out in force for the morning show: two countesses and at least half- a-dozen ladies, making notes in their programmes and cooing their delight.

'Divine, simply divine,' said one of them, applauding a black pinstripe trouser suit with a double-breasted corset-waistcoat.

More titled customers were to follow before the day was through. Hartnell's salon is too small to fit everyone into one show.

According to the guest list, the two afternoon shows drew another couple of countesses, a dozen ladies, a duchess, a baron, two princesses and a prince.

At a time when the pendulum of fashion is swinging against couture, this was good news for the House of Hartnell, which has had a chequered history in recent years, and is currently on the lookout for additional capital investment.

Prices for couture suits, made-to-measure, start at pounds 2,000. Hartnell also makes a de luxe range, with day suits selling from pounds 1,000, and a ready-to-wear collection priced at about pounds 500.

A fourth high street collection is currently under discussion with Designer Originals, a London-based manufacturer, with a view to launching next spring.

Manny Silverman, chairman, said: 'We want to make the Hartnell label available to all sectors of the market.'

(Photograph omitted)

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in