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Stella McCartney's show at Paris Fashion Week says sustainability doesn't sacrifice luxury

Stella McCartney presented a sustainability-minded showcase at Paris Fashion Week

Thomas Adamson
Monday 04 March 2024 14:30 GMT

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A greenhouse in Parisā€™ Parc Andre Citroen was a fitting stage for Stella McCartney's ecology-minded showcase at Paris Fashion Week on Monday.

The British-American designer had star-studded endorsements ā€” a front row with the two surviving members of The Beatles, Ringo Starr and her father, Paul McCartney, in a seldom-seen joint appearance ā€” and the backing of the luxury conglomerate LVMH to spotlight the urgent need for the industry to reckon with its impact on the planet.

ā€œWe are one of the most harmful industries," McCartney said in a challenge to luxury houses.

Here are highlights of the fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear collections.

SEQUINS OF RECYCLED ALUMINUM

The fall collection began with an expletives-laden film voiced by Oscar winners Olivia Colman and Helen Mirren that invited the world to protect Mother Earth. Stella McCartney's message was clear: Glamour need not come at the earthā€™s expense.

Cue sequins made from recycled aluminum, sparkling faux-diamond crystal lattice details and alternative leather handbags. Mock crocodile-skin trenchcoats were fashioned from AppleSkin, a vegan leather made from apple waste. Dramatic wool coatdresses (one modeled by model of the minute Lila Moss, Kate Moss ā€™ daughter) sported cascading shaggy hoops, prompting one fashion insider to christen it the "new fur coat."

Stiff shoulder pads offered an '80s whiff to the collection, while a stylish, asymmetrical vegan leather stud dress provided a flash of punk. Sometimes the silhouette got lost in the shaggier looks, such as one limp black jumpsuit, but to dwell on that would be to miss the point.

ā€˜INFILTRATE FROM WITHINā€™

That sustainability need not lead to compromising on opulence for luxury garments was a message aimed at the influential Antoine Arnault of LVMH, the worldā€™s premier luxury group.

McCartney told The Associated Press her aim for the industry is to ā€œinfiltrate from within." The fashion sector contributes to global greenhouse gas emissions, she said, underlining the urgency for change.

ā€œIā€™m fighting inside, and theyā€™re very open-hearted to it. Iā€™m very encouraged," she said of LVMH, which bought a minority stake in her brand in 2019.

McCartney said the clout and backing of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault ā€œgives a really, really loud message to the industry.ā€

In a fact sheet sent to guests, LVMH noted that 90% of this seasonā€™s ready-to-wear is crafted from ā€œresponsible materials."

MELANIE C IS A STELLA FAN

The former Spice Girl was all smiles greeting McCartney after the show before taking selfies with fans, interspersed with refrains of ā€œgirl power.ā€

Melanie C said she has admired McCartneyā€™s designs for ā€œa very long time.ā€

ā€œBeing a sporty girl, I love the little nod to sport with the little rip away, with the denim and the vegan leather,ā€ the artist formerly known as Sporty Spice told the AP.

The singer said found the collection with its eco-message ā€œso moving. So prevalent. But it takes designers like Stella to get that message home.ā€

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