Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

Remote island home of spies and turtles opens its doors to tourists

Andrew Marshall
Thursday 05 February 1998 00:02 GMT
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

A new holiday destination has arrived on the map: Ascension Island, formerly one of the Cold War's most secret and remote outposts.

This British-owned fly speck in the mid-Atlantic between Africa and Brazil is to be opened for the first time to civilian flights, and the island is already gearing up for tourists. It is unlikely to be a mad rush. The cost of getting there will be high; and the number of available beds for visitors is tiny. Ascension, with a semi-permanent population of about 100, is one of the strangest places in the world, a James Bond island if ever there was one.

The island has a US Air Force base and it played a crucial role as a staging post in the Falklands War. But with the end of the Cold War it has started to become less useful. The super-secretive Central Signals Organisation, the overseas branch of GCHQ, runs a listening operation there.

Opening Ascension to civilian traffic has long been an aim of the island's enterprising Administrator, Roger Huxley. It will help prop up Ascension's microeconomy and also provide a vital new transport link for the 6,000 islanders of St Helena.

The island rises steeply out of the sea in the middle of nowhere. Formed by successive volcanic eruptions, it is interspersed with harsh fields of volcanic rock. One common description is "hell with the fires turned off". But the main peak in the centre of the island is covered with dense vegetation.

The island's attractions are mainly natural. It plays host to green turtles which swim hundreds of miles across the Atlantic to lay their eggs on its sandy beaches.

Just as fascinating are the mementoes of British and American military occupation - from the Victorian forts to satellite tracking systems.

- Andrew Marshall

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in