Let's do lunch...

Where does Rupert go for his roast beef? Which is the power table at Le Caprice? Why's the Wolseley making headlines? Ed Caesar presents media's good food guide

Monday 27 September 2004 00:00 BST
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1 VILLANDRY

Who goes there? BBC luminaries Andy Parfitt, Jeremy Vine and Richard Sambrook; the higher echelons of the radio and music businesses.

What's the USP? Sparsely decorated and staffed by periodically haughty waiters, Villandry is the perfect place for a power-brunch if you can drag your client out of the eclectically stocked delicatessen next door to the restaurant.

Best table? Table 5 in the side room, for those who want privacy but visibility by the large glass windows. For the genuinely discreet, Tables 40 and 41 in the Wine Room are the choice.

2 KENSINGTON PLACE

Who goes there? Louise Chunn, editor of InStyle; Associated Newspapers journalists; Michael Winner; Hollywood superstars.

What's the USP? With its spectacular glass front, this Notting Hill establishment is the perfect place for media people-spotting. Everyone from Princess Diana to the lowliest hack has eaten there, but it is dominated by Associated executives tucking into a foie gras pancake or two.

Best table? By the windows, where the acoustics are better.

3 ELENA'S L'ETOILE

Who goes there? Rimi Atwal of EMAP; Mixmag's Pauline Haldane; Lisa Opie of Flextech TV; EMAP executives, Greg Dyke.

What's the USP? A nexus of the publishing, music, and television industries, L'Etoile is a perfect place to entertain within walking distance of the office. This is where Charlotte Street darlings come to have their troubles soothed by legendary 84-year-old maitre d', Elena Salvoni.

Best table For a private affair, Elena will give you one of her side rooms - the only spot for the serious power-luncher.

4 ANDREW EDMUNDS

Who Goes There? Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman; Lee Roberts of Virgin Radio, Rowan Pelling, erstwhile editrice of The Erotic Review.

What's the USP? With its intimate, candlelit interior, and satisfyingly delicious food - the confit of duck is a highlight - this small Soho establishment is quietly becoming a favourite for the magazine and music bigwigs who work in the area.

Best Table

The further from the door the better. They'll never know you're there.

5 THE RIVER CAFÉ

Who goes there? Stephen Fry; The Blairs; Sky News political editor Adam Boulton; John Mortimer; Jeremy Paxman; Michael White, political editor of The Guardian; Piers Morgan.

What's the USP? The River Café is a haven for italophiles from every area of politics, the media, and the arts. Regulars devour Rose and Ruthie's legendary Tuscan cuisine while gorging on the host of other names sitting around them.

Best table? In summer, there's only one place to be: on the terrace.

6 THE GAY HUSSAR

Who goes there? Labour politicians; Guardian journalists, Mark Seddon, former editor of Tribune.

What's the USP? Between its darkened wood walls and photos of powerful guests, decades of political back-biting and journalistic intrigue have taken place. The politicians may have started to take their custom elsewhere, but Lobby journalists can still be seen plotting over a plate of goulash.

Best table? If history is your thing, sit at Table 10, where Tony Blair was persuaded to run for Parliament in 1982.

7 THE WOLSELEY

Who goes there? Michael Winner, Lord Saatchi, Dylan Jones, Lord Alli, Alexandra Shulman, Matthew Vaughn, AA Gill, Jamie Theakston, Steve Miron, MD of the Mail on Sunday, Nick Murrell, MD of M&C Saatchi, Robert Campbell, creative director at McCann Erickson.

What's the USP? The opulent interior at The Wolseley sings 'old-school class'Big portions of heartwarming dishes, like suckling pig, are perfect to devour while peering at your fellow diners.

Best table? The banquettes in the large central area are the prime seats.

8 SAN LORENZO

Who goes there? Lucy Yeomans, editor of Harper's & Queen; Stephen Quinn, managing director of Vogue; embattled England football managers.

What's the USP? Poor reviews haven't put off the hordes of celebrities who fill it every day. Deals and gossip are exchanged over a scoop or two of its speciality ice cream.

Best table? The one that Sven and Nancy always nab.

9 PANE VINO

Who goes there? Jon Snow of Channel Four News; Times food critic Giles Coren, dozens of newspaper writers and executives who live nearby.

What's the USP? An unassuming, high-street Sardinian in Kentish Town which punches well above its weight in terms of attracting media high-rollers. Diners like the "passion" and the "piles of cheese and meat and bottarga and roasted vegetables".

Best table? "Every table is the best table" according to the manager. "We sit the common people next to the stars."

10 GROUCHO CLUB

Who goes there? Glamour editor Jo Elvin; Alex James; TBWA's Paul Bainsfair; advertising executive Tim Delaney; Stephen Quinn; Condé Nast's Simon Kippin; PR Julia Hobsbawm; Steven Gaydos, executive editor of Variety; Stephen Fry, Derren Brown and football agent Jon Holmes.

What's the USP? The exterior is the only anonymous thing about this private member's club. A huge cross-section of London and the world's media gather behind the bricky frontage for squid in balsamic vinegar or a cheap steak-frites. More often than not, though, eating is the last thing on anyone's mind.

Best table? The long wooden one with a budding actress serving drinks on the other side.

11 LE CAPRICE

Who Goes There? John Witherow, editor of the Sunday Times, Sarah Miller of Condé Nast Traveller, Alexandra Shulman of Vogue, Geordie Grieg of Tatler and Dylan Jones of GQ; advertising supremo David Kershaw; Condé Nast managing director Nicholas Coleridge, Jeffrey Archer, Sue Douglas, also of Condé Nast.

What's the USP? Refined, borderline depressing surroundings belie the frenzy of conversational activity bouncing between London's media royalty. The souffléed scallops are ample brainfood for the movers and shakers.

Best Table? Facing the wall as you enter - the best place to see and be seen.

12 THE IVY

Who goes there? Everyone. More specifically, Luke Johnson, Channel Four Chairman (and the Ivy's owner); David Kershaw; Lord Bragg; Independent editor Simon Kelner; Observer editor Roger Alton; The Sun editor Rebekah Wade; TV mogul Waheed Alli; cable TV controller Richard Woolfe; Flextech's Lisa Opie; Marie Claire editor Marie O'Riordan; GQ's Dylan Jones; EMAP's Marcus Rich; PR Mark Borkowski; Arena editor Anthony Noguera; Sky's Nick Milligan and Dawn Airey; Channel Five's Dan Chambers; advertising king Mark Wnek; BBC Chairman Michael Grade; Channel Five chief executive Jane Lighting; Sly Bailey, chief executive of the Mirror Group, Michael Parkinson.

What's the USP? Fabulous food, an exclusive atmosphere, and a waiting list to rival plastic surgery on the NHS. Many diners cite the frozen berries as their favourite dish, but who cares what you're eating when you can sit with the media aristocracy? The Ivy is still the place in London to be seen.

Best table: They get 1,000 calls a day - any table you can get.

13 SOHO HOUSE

Who goes there?: Working Title's Eric Fellner; Steve Coogan; Lorraine Candy of Cosmopolitan; Marcus Rich; Trouble and Challenge controller Jonathan Webb; Rimi Atwal of EMAP; Julia Hobsbawm; Harriet Scott, breakfast co-presenter on London's Heart 106.2, Johnny Hornby, CEO of CHI.

What's the USP? Four floors of media heaven: bars, restaurants and even a cinema make this a solid rival to The Groucho. Its clientele is predominantly based in the film and TV industries. Like the Groucho, food is not the main attraction here, and patrons have been known to take advantage of the late licence.

Best table The long oak table in the private dining room is perfect for an intimate, uninterrupted power meal.

14 J SHEEKEY

Who goes there? Janet Street-Porter, Condé Nast's Antonia Camilleri; Richard Woolfe; Mark Frith, editor of Heat magazine; Andrew Gowers, editor of the FT; PR Mark Borkowski; Jeff Ford and Dan Cambers of Channel Five; Michael Grade; Luke Johnson.

What's the USP? Tiffany lights, cracked laquer walls and a fish pie to die for. This discreet watering hole is a favourite business venue for London's media elite.

Best table? Table 12 for people- spotting. A clear view of the door and the entrance to the Gents'. Perfect.

15 ORSO

Who goes there?

Andrew Neil; Brian MacArthur, media editor of The Times; national newspaper media editors, senior BBC executives.

What's the USP? Hollywood legends adorn the walls, and Hollywood stars come through the door, but the real action is occurring between the newspaper execs who frequent this Covent Garden establishment. Deals and stories are traded over a plate of suckling pig and a bottle of red.

Best table? Behind a pillar at the back of Orso is the table the management don't want everyone to know about.

16 CHRISTOPHER'S

Who goes there?

Sarah Sands, deputy editor of The Daily Telegraph; Andrew Marr; The Spectator's editor Boris Johnson - and its publisher Kimberley Fortier (but not as often as she used to).

What's the USP? Dark wood and deep sofas give this Covent Garden haunt a Sex and the City feel, while the menu mirrors the patrons: big, meaty, no- nonsense. Christopher's is East Coast glamour in London.

Best table? For heavyweight guests, the manager arranges the private dining room with a view of Waterloo Bridge.

17 THE SAVOY GRILL

Who goes there?

Rupert Murdoch; The Daily Mail's Paul Dacre; Michael Parkinson; John Major; Lord King, Ivan Fallon, CEO of Independent News & Media, David Frost, Jeremy Deedes of the Telegraph Group

What's the USP? The days of Fleet Street editors with their own Friday table may have passed, but media players can still sample a slice of the British establishment (and quality roast beef) in this grand old venue.

Best table? The banquettes are where the serious players sit.

18 THE SPECTATOR OFFICES

Who goes there? Broadsheet sketch-writers Simon Hoggart, Ben Macintyre and Frank Johnson; Elinor Goodman of Channel Four; the Daily Telegraph's George Jones; Alan Watkins of The Independent on Sunday; Michael White of The Guardian; BBC Political Editor Andrew Marr.

What's the USP? Boris Johnson's hospitality. Guests are treated to what can only be described as 'haute' school dinner, with the Shepherd's Pie a particular favourite.

Best table? There's only one.

19 FLANEUR FOOD HALL & RESTAURANT

Who goes there? Guardian and Observer editors Alan Rusbridger and Roger Alton; their staff.

What's the USP? Popular eatery for the left-wing broadsheets down the road. Journalists can tuck into generous portions of charcuterie at tables tucked between floor-to-ceiling shelving stuffed with gourmet comestibles.

Best table? When your editor asks you to pass the pepper mill, you know you're on the right table.

20 PLATEAU

Who goes there?

Martin Newland, editor of The Daily Telegraph; Dominic Lawson, editor of the Sunday Telegraph, countless Mirror and Telegraph staff.

What's the USP? It may have good quality food, a futuristic design and a decent view - but the appeal of this Docklands outpost of the Conran empire lies principally in its location. Since the eastern exodus of many national newspapers, Plateau has become a stylish place for Canary Wharf-based editors and hacks.

Best table? Number 18 in the restaurant and 54 in the brasserie have the best views.

21 OXO TOWER

Who goes there?

Granada Chairman Charles Allen; Mike Soutar of IPC.

What's the USP?

Nicknamed the 'IPC staff canteen', this landmark institution still has power-players coming back for more, despite a reputation for over-priced and unfulfilling fare. What better than a panoramic view of London to make you (or more importantly your guest) feel like the most important person in the world?

Best Table Any with a decent view of St. Paul's.

22 PONT DE LA TOUR

Who goes there?

The Blairs and the Clintons; Lisa Palta, editor of OK!; film bankers, Paul Jackson, CEO of Ogilvy, Robin Cook, Les Hinton, CEO of News International; his editors.

What's the USP? With stunning views of Tower Bridge, and typically Conradian fare (the lobster and chips is a particular favourite), Le Pont still holds serious cachet as a power-dining venue. This is where the City meets Soho - a place for media people to grovel to their bankers.

Best table? The terrace (in summer) is the most sought-after spot.

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