Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

It's London Men's Fashion Week ... so where are Paul Smith, Burro and Boateng, then?

Melanie Rickey
Thursday 04 February 1999 00:02 GMT
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

LONDON MEN'S Fashion Week (LMFW) kicked off quietly yesterday morning with a five-hour gap after two designers pulled out from their catwalk shows at the last minute.

Designers Ken Odimah and Jeffrey Green had suffered familiar fashion fates: Odimah's financial backer pulled out, and Jeffrey Green's collection was allegedly stolen.

Unlike London Fashion Week, the glamorous women's event that has been in existence since 1983 and which now competes internationally with Paris, Milan and New York, LMFW is only nine months old, this being the second event.

And it has a long way to go if it wants to compete internationally, as the weakness of the schedule, not to mention two designers pulling out, proved.

The only well-known names holding catwalk presentations were John Rocha who showed last night, and Paul Costelloe who shows this morning. Ironically, neither of these designers is British. Costelloe is Irish, and Hong Kong- born Rocha is based in Dublin.

Instead, all the top British-born-and-bred menswear designers show in Paris and Milan.

Paul Smith, Ozwald Boateng and Burro (who showed at the first LMFW last July) showed their latest collections in Paris during the past week. Two weeks earlier, Vivienne Westwood and John Richmond had shown in Milan.

Olaf Parker, the designer for Burro, decided to stay away in favour of Paris simply because of finance. "We would like to support the British thing, but London just doesn't attract the right people. In Paris we are guaranteed that the photographers, buyers and press are going to be there. In London they seem more concerned with parties."

The event organiser, John Rowley, is philosophical. "It takes time for these kind of events to grow. We have been sponsored by Honda who are being phenomenally helpful, and they continue their support for another year. I am looking to next year as the acid test of our growth."

Mr Rowley has decided to focus on helping young menswear labels to gain a foothold in the market. "We're giving them a chance to get their businesses going. This is about promoting British menswear design."

The British menswear industry has grown by more than 30 per cent this decade. Retail expenditure on menswear was pounds 7.7bn in 1997, of which about pounds 1bn went on designer brands.

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in