Travel-Lake District: How to make tracks through a patch of tranquillit y

Weekend walk: Matthew Brace explores a stretch from Rosthwaite to Stonethwaite that provides the perfect introduction to Lakeland tramping

At the end of a twisting, swooping, Lakeland road past miles of conifer and beech woods, lies a promised land. Here in a natural amphitheatre on the floor of a once glaciated valley three streams meet and combine their strength into a frothing river. On all sides the rust brown fells rise up into the clouds.

This is Borrowdale, deep in the heart of the Lake Dis1trict. It can be a mournful place when the skies are low but at the same time a haven of peace and beauty. It is also the wettest place in Britain so bring your waterproofs.

I was always convinced Tolkein found Frodo the Hobbit here, but he didn't. That was Herefordshire and Worcestershire which seem far too tame in comparison. Still, that does not stop the walker familiar with the story imagining there are Hobbit holes tucked into the fell-sides.

This four-mile walk, the Stonethwaite Stroll for want of a better title, is ideal as a small child's introduction to the delights of tramping the Lakes. It rambles on the flat between the villages of Rosthwaite and Stonethwaite, so start in either.

Parking in both has always been hellish. You may find you are forced up towards Seatoller but it is only a short walk back and an opportunity for another view or two.

If you choose Rosthwaite walk back to the northern entrance to the village (the one you came through from Keswick). As you drove in you might have seen a small lane on your right. Find it again and take it and when it peters out follow on along a footpath.

The river running parallel on your right is the Derwent which frequently floods here and stops the traffic on the road. (Nature getting its own back). It has already been joined at this stage by Hause Gill which tumbles down Honister Pass (the big valley on your right) and just a few hundred yards down the valley the river is further swelled by the Langstrath Beck. Eventually the whole lot pours into the beautiful Derwent Water.

When you reach the bridge at Longthwaite don't be tempted to cross it, even if the Youth Hostel on the other side is welcoming and warm.

Instead, head down the lane ahead of you and on to the main road. Looking back down the valley you should get a good view of the tree-covered Castle Crag, one of the Lake District's smaller fells but a potentially treacherous climb. It is very steep in places and peppered with disused slate mines whose entrances gape from the ground. But from a safe distance it looks fine.

The road will bring you past a school playground and into Stonethwaite which is little more than a hamlet. Turn left just before a red phone box and cross Stonethwaite Beck on a small bridge. Turn right and head up towards the looming fells.

Ahead of you is the valley of Greenup Gill which leads to the summit of Ullscarf (2,370m). To the right of this is the Langstrath Valley, or the "valley with no end" as some walkers call it. On big treks to the high peaks it does seem an awfully long trudge.

Between the two is a fat haunch of rock known as Eagle Crag. There were once golden eagles here, apparently, but now most have retreated to even more remote areas, up in the Scottish Highlands.

There is another footbridge across the brook just beyond a wood, or stepping stones can be used with care at low water.

Walk up Langstrath as far as you want before heading back. The RAF used to fly their jets down the Langstrath. I've not heard or seen one for several years but be warned they are abominably loud.

You come down on a rubble track through fields with the screes of Bull Crag over your left shoulder. Soon the chimney smoke of Stonethwaite can be seen. The first building you will pass is the Langstrath Hotel and it is a very welcoming sight.

It has always amazed me how they get the beer trucks up here through such tight valley lanes but I'm glad they do because Lakeland walking requires liquid celebration. You will struggle to find a better place for food, beer and cheer than the Langstrath.

A pint of Jennings Cumberland ale and a plate piled high with wild boar pie will bring a smile to the most bedraggled and down-hearted walker.

If you start this walk in Stonethwaite you will benefit by being in the right place when you stand up again after a Langstrath evening meal. Walking suddenly loses its appeal. But even if you still have to carry on to Rosthwaite, it's less than a mile. Either cross back over the same footbridge in Stonethwaite and turn left or go along the road, turning right shortly after the school playground.

Directions

Start at lane by entrance to Rosthwaite

Follow to end and carry on along footpath

At bridge go straight on to main road, cross

Into Stonethwaite, left and cross footbridge

Right and up Langstrath valley

Back on track to hotel

Back to Rosthwaite over bridge and track or by road

What to take

Kendal Mint Cake

OS Landranger Map No 89

Waterproofs