Nike shows that its progressive stance only goes so far

Inside Business: Cancelling a run of trainers in China, after their designer backed Hong Kong protesters, is at odds with the sportswear giant’s self-made image as a champion of social causes

Nike’s Colin Kapernick advert that positioned the brand as a social causes champion (EPA)

How does one square Nike’s positioning of itself as a champion of progressive social causes, with the cancellation of a line of limited edition shoes in China in the wake of the views expressed by their designer?

The trainers were the creation of Undercover, the studio of Japanese designer Jun Takahashi. Earlier this month, it posted a photo of protesters in Hong Kong together with the slogan “no extradition to China” on Instagram.

The post was deleted after Undercover said it was an “individual opinion” posted by mistake. But by then the furore was underway. Chinese Instagram users, themselves using software to get around an official ban, reacted with outrage. The trainers were ultimately removed from retailers’ shelves as Nike cancelled their release.

The contrast with the firm’s recent marketing efforts could scarcely be more stark. In the wake of a revolt by female staff members, which led to an exodus of male executives, the company has been seeking to improve its image in terms of gender equality – pumping money into the Women’s World Cup, and deepening the involvement of its Air Jordan in the WNBA by signing New York Liberty players Kia Nurse and Asia Durr to the brand.

A revamped space in its flagship London store on Oxford Street celebrates “diversity and inclusivity in sport”, with the use of plus size and para-sport mannequins. There was also recently a video of Caster Semenya, the 800m runner who’s been grappling with demands from the International Amateur Athletics Federation that she take testosterone suppressants if she wants to compete, calling for acceptance.

Perhaps the most famous case of Nike trying to be seen to take a stand came courtesy of giving a multi-million dollar contract to Colin Kaepernick, the former San Franscico 49ers quarterback who protested racial injustice by taking a knee when the US national anthem was played at NFL games.

An ad followed with the picture of his face bearing the legend: “Believe in something, even if it means sacrificing everything.”

The Kaepernick campaign represented a risk, even if it was a calculated one based on Nike’s knowledge of the views and inclinations of its youthful customer base. It nonetheless mattered, particularly in Trump’s America, and Nike got a lot of credit for it. Together with a handsome dollar pay-off, of course.

Nike’s latest actions, however, cast a shadow over that campaign and the other mentioned work. It shows that its brand values only go so far. If it risks the holy yuan, and 18 per cent growth, the company will kowtow along with everyone else. It’s no consolation that its rivals would probably have done the same thing.

The Financial Times, which broke the story, says it made repeated requests to the company for comment without getting a response. That tells you a lot. By keeping schtum, it’s probably banking on the affair blowing over.

One way of hastening that would be to create some noise elsewhere, and perhaps a bit of controversy that’s safer from a commercial perspective. Time for another Kaepernick ad perhaps? Given the last lot were financial and PR winners it wouldn’t come as a great surprise.