Paris: Les hotspots

Paris in July is steamy, social and high on pleasure - here's where to go. Three-floor, designer-concept store Colette opened just three months ago, with fashion, designer objets, exhibitions and a cafe, and Parisians remain divided as to whether it's all that cool or not. Still, there are those who swear that any store which sells Lucien Pellat-Finet cashmere shrunken sweaters, Pucci knickers and Marie-Helene de Taillac jewels qualifies as totally fashion. Suspect: their "London vases", elliptical shape, cheap, glass vases, very like those John Lewis have been selling for years. 213 rue Saint Honore, 75001. Tel: 42 86 91 03.

Just down the road is the 85-room Hotel Costes where the glossy people - Eva Herzigova, Kate Moss and Mickey Rourke - have now been joined by fat expense accounts and wannabes. Parisians use it as a lunch spot, bar and late-night restaurant, as it is open until 2am. 239 rue Saint Honore, 75001. Tel: 42 44 50 00.

For dinner, try Natacha's over on the Left Bank, which does delicious modern French cuisine and pulls a fashionable crowd. Last time I went the place was buzzing because Leonardo DiCaprio was there, surrounded by ravishing model-types. Utterly glamorous, except it meant all the other diners just would not leave and we had to wait at the bar for an hour and a half before we could get to our table. 17 bis rue Campagne- Premiere, 75014. Tel: 43 20 79 27.

For downtown nights, gossip and home-made guacamole, the back-street Argentinian Anahi is where to go. A favourite haunt of fashion designers such as Helmut Lang and Martine Sitbon, 49 rue Volta, 75003. Tel: 42 77 41 65.

Overlooking the Canal Saint Martin, the Cafe de la Marine is everything you want from a French bistro. The atmosphere is relaxed and the food tasty, fresh and French, with warm mussel salad, lamb baked in olives and haddock and mashed potato in a creamy sauce. 55 bis quai de Valmy, 75010. Tel: 01 42 39 69 81.

For hanging out and terrace life try the Rue Montorgueil in the 2nd arrondissement. It's a market street, so still has that authentic Paris feel as you pick your way past fish heads and flowers to get to a morning espresso. La Fourmi up in Pigalle is a new bar, which is great for drinking day or night and is the current favourite with the Pigalle hipsters. 74 rue des Martyrs, 75018. Tel: 42 64 74 28.

For clubbers, the infamous gay club, Le Queen, has an excellent mixed night on Wednesday, aptly called Respect, run by first-rate promoter, Gerome. New French House, Hip Hop, Garage. Flamboyant dress. 102 Avenue des Champs Elysees, 75008. Tel: 53 89 08 90.

For star-spotting, try Les Bains Douches. Tom Cruise, Johnny Depp and Naomi Campbell frequent this exclusive joint. Top international DJ's feature in either the restaurant (mostly soul and rap) or on the dance floor (mostly house and techno). All a mite like The Hippodrome though (that is, pretty naff), and very difficult to get in. Friday's Gold night is best. Next one's on 11 July. 7 rue du Bourg-L' Abbe, 75003. Tel: 48 87 01 80.

For something more atmospheric check out Citchea Club where a mostly Parisian crowd chat and dance to an interesting mix of Hip Hop and African sounds. Good place to start the evening, opens at 9.30 pm and costs nothing. 114 rue Oberkampf, 75020. Tel: 40 21 70 95.

The small and intimate Folies Pigalle was a cabaret/brothel earlier this century and now provides a post-party haunt for insomniacs; open until noon next day. Recently getting a little touristy. 11 Place Pigalle, 75009. Tel: 40 36 71 58.

Dance-wise, the best of the bunch, is Rex Club. Lauren Garnier is the force behind this most modern of Parisian joints. Techno party every Friday, House party every Saturday. 5 boulevard Poissiele, 75002. Tel: 42 36 10 96.

Alicia Drake and Christina Bexson