Five recipes for when it’s simply too hot to cook

Emily Weinstein rounds up her favourite no-faff and no-cook (or at least very minor cooking) recipes for summer’s hottest days

Wednesday 18 August 2021 15:23 BST
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Chef Scarlett Lindeman’s tuna, avocado and cucumber salad
Chef Scarlett Lindeman’s tuna, avocado and cucumber salad (Getty/iStock)

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The dish I keep on repeat all summer long is something I’ve come to call the super caprese. It’s just a caprese salad, that ultra-Italian combination of fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, salt and olive oil, but made deluxe and regarded as a complete meal, with olives and capers added, maybe prosciutto, and a fair amount of bread on the side. If summer is here, so is the super caprese.

Imagine my joy, then, when I saw Hana Asbrink’s new recipe for chilled silken tofu with tomatoes and peaches, inspired by caprese salads and hiyayakko, the Japanese dish of cold tofu adorned with toppings like ginger and shiso. That’s below, with two dishes that involve very, very minor cooking (and no ovens). There are two additional cold dinners, too, including one of my favourite summer recipes: Scarlett’s tuna salad.

Cold tofu salad with tomatoes and peaches

Sweet, savoury and refreshing for a hot summer’s day
Sweet, savoury and refreshing for a hot summer’s day (Getty/iStock)

Sweet, savoury and refreshing for summer’s hottest days, this is the salad to make when tomatoes and peaches are at their prime, on the verge of bursting. Inspired by Italian caprese salad and Japanese hiyayakko, it features juicy, ripe wedges of peaches and tomatoes seasoned with flaky salt, which draws out their juices to mingle with soy-balsamic dressing and creamy silken tofu. Top the salad with a shower of fragrant basil and mint, a nod to the shiso that often accompanies hiyayakko, and a few cranks of black pepper. Be sure to spoon the umami-rich dressing (the best part!) over the tomatoes, peaches and tofu so that it pools at the bottom of the serving platter.

By: Hana Asbrink

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

For the salad:

340-400g silken tofu, chilled

2 to 3 ripe medium peaches

3 to 4 ripe medium tomatoes

Flaky sea salt

5g fresh basil leaves

2 tbsp fresh mint leaves

Black pepper

For the dressing:

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tbsp unseasoned rice vinegar

1 tbsp toasted sesame oil

2 tsp soy sauce

1 tsp sugar

Method:

1. Prepare the tofu: carefully drain the tofu in its packaging, then remove the tofu. Gently wrap it with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel to absorb excess moisture and set it on a plate.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the peaches and tomatoes: pit and cut each peach into 2.5cm-thick wedges, then core and cut each tomato into 2.5cm-thick wedges. Place tomatoes and peaches on a serving platter, pouring any tomato or peach juices from the cutting board over the dish. Season generously with flaky sea salt to draw out juices.

3. Remove the tofu from the paper towels and place it back on the plate. Using a large spoon, scoop out tofu mounds onto the tomatoes and peaches. Season tofu with flaky sea salt.

4. Prepare the dressing: in a small glass jar, combine dressing ingredients, cover and shake to combine. Spoon four tablespoons of the dressing over the tomatoes, peaches and tofu. Extra dressing can be served alongside.

5. Just before serving, stack together the basil and mint leaves and roughly chop. Top the salad with chopped herbs and black pepper. Serve immediately, taking care to spoon extra dressing and juices from the bottom of the platter.

Plantains with jammy tomatoes and eggs

Plantains work well here as they hold their shape and texture while absorbing the flavours of the surrounding stew
Plantains work well here as they hold their shape and texture while absorbing the flavours of the surrounding stew (Getty)

Plantains are nutrient-rich starches that can sweeten as they cook, and, in many parts of the world, they find their way into the best stews and porridges. This recipe is based on “tomato eggs”, a dish popular in Lagos, Nigeria and across west Africa. Tomato eggs can be made with yams or plantains, and here, firm yellow plantains work best because they hold their shape and texture while absorbing the flavours of the surrounding stew. It’s a perfect meal for days when you want something hot but not too heavy or filling. Any herbs you have on hand will work well, and the dish can be made vegan by substituting medium-firm or soft tofu for the eggs.

By: Yewande Komolafe

Makes: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

2 firm yellow plantains (about 450g)

3 tbsp neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola

1 small yellow onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, sliced

1 (340g) jar roasted red peppers, drained and chopped

1 fresh or dried bay leaf

1 Scotch bonnet pepper or 1 tsp red pepper flakes

Salt

1 (400g) can whole peeled tomatoes

4 large eggs

10g fresh herbs, such as dill or flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Method:

1. Cut off the ends of each plantain. Use a sharp knife to slice the peel along the length of each plantain without cutting into the flesh. Remove peels and discard. Cut each plantain into 5 to 7.5cm-long pieces, and then cut each piece in half lengthwise.

2. Heat two tablespoons oil in a large frying pan over medium until it shimmers. Place the plantains in the pan with the long cut side down. Sear until the cut sides are deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer the plantains to a plate and set aside.

3. Pour in the remaining one tablespoon oil, and add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the roasted red peppers and bay leaf, and drop in the Scotch bonnet pepper. Season to taste with salt. Cook, stirring, until the liquid from the roasted peppers evaporates, about two minutes.

4. Add the whole peeled tomatoes with their liquid. Use a spatula to carefully break the tomatoes into smaller pieces in the skillet. Fill the can with one cup water, swirl to rinse it and pour the liquid into the pan. Raise the heat to high and bring the sauce to a simmer. Allow the sauce to reduce, stirring occasionally, until thickened and about three-quarters its original volume, about 5 minutes. Season with additional salt if necessary.

5. Reduce the heat to medium and return the plantains to the pan, nestling each piece in the sauce seared side up until almost submerged. Cook until the plantains are just soft and the tomatoes are jammy, 4 to 6 minutes. When you poke the plantains with a fork, there should be little resistance.

6. Remove and discard the bay leaf and Scotch bonnet pepper. Make four wells in the sauce, spaced out evenly, and gently crack the eggs into the wells one at a time. Cover with a lid or aluminum foil. Cook until the whites of the eggs are set and the yolks runny, six to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Garnish with the herbs and serve immediately.

Scarlett’s tuna salad

This dish is so simple that seasoning it well is key
This dish is so simple that seasoning it well is key (Getty/iStock)

For when it’s too hot to cook, there's chef Scarlett Lindeman’s tuna salad – the same one she serves at her Mexico City restaurant, Cicatriz. Made with high-quality, oil-packed tuna, the salad is fresh, juicy, bright and summery, composed with cucumbers, avocado, pickled onion and lots of herbs. Don’t be afraid to season the cucumbers generously with salt at the start, and to season more as you build the layers of the salad. The dish is so simple that seasoning it well is key.

By: Scarlett Lindeman

Adapted by:Tejal Rao

Makes: Serves 4 as a side or 2 as dinner

Total time: 15 minutes, plus 1 hour for pickling onions

Ingredients:

118ml rice wine vinegar

1 tbsp sugar

2 tsp salt

1 red onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced

3 Persian cucumbers, peeled if skin is thick and waxy, sliced about 0.5cm thick

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 limes, juiced, about 60ml

140-200g olive oil-packed tuna

1 avocado, peeled and cubed

½ tsp or more finishing salt

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Handful basil leaves, washed and torn

Handful cilantro sprigs, washed and torn

Handful fresh mint leaves, washed and torn

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method:

1. In a clean glass jar with a tight fitting lid, mix vinegar, sugar and 1 teaspoon salt with ½ cup hot water. Shake until sugar is dissolved. Bring a pot of water to the boil, and add the onions. Let it sit for just a few seconds in the hot water, then drain well and transfer onions to the jar with the vinegar. The pickled onions will be ready to use in an hour, or can be made ahead and kept in the fridge for up to a week.

2. In a large mixing bowl, dress the cucumber and spring onions with the remaining salt and lime juice. It should be fairly wet. Pour into a deep serving plate or a wide bowl, along with any extra liquid at the bottom of the bowl.

3. Spoon tuna out of the oil, and use your hands to break it into bite-sizes pieces, directly into the now-empty mixing bowl. Add avocado, three tablespoons of pickled red onion and one tablespoon of pickling liquid from the jar, and mix gently with your hands to dress. Scatter over the cucumber mixture, and season with finishing salt and black pepper. Cover with torn herbs, and generously drizzle everything with olive oil. Eat right away, with spoons.

Lemon and thyme grilled chicken breasts

Cooking these classic herb and lemon chicken breasts over charcoal gives them the deepest, smokiest taste
Cooking these classic herb and lemon chicken breasts over charcoal gives them the deepest, smokiest taste (Getty/iStock)

These classic herb and lemon-seasoned chicken breasts will win over fans, especially when cooked over charcoal to give them the deepest, smokiest taste. For dark meat lovers, this recipe will also work with boneless, skinless thighs, though you might have to add a minute or so to the cooking time. Or use a combination of breasts and thighs and make everyone happy.

By:Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients:

Total time: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating

Ingredients:

4 (170g) boneless, skinless chicken breasts

1½ tsp salt

1 tsp black pepper

2 tbsp chopped thyme leaves

4 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

2 lemons, as needed

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, more as needed

Torn basil or mint leaves, as needed

Method:

1. Place chicken breasts between two sheets of parchment or plastic wrap. Using a mallet or rolling pin, pound each to an even thickness of 1.5cm. Do not make them any thinner or they could dry out.

2. Place chicken in a large bowl and toss with salt, pepper, thyme, garlic and the zest and juice of one lemon. Mix in olive oil. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours. Remove chicken from fridge while you heat the grill.

3. Light the grill, building a hot fire, or heat your gas grill to high. Once grill is fully heated, brush breasts lightly with olive oil and place chicken on the grill. Cook until undersides are browned and chicken is about halfway cooked, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip breasts and grill until cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes more.

4. Transfer chicken to a platter. Drizzle with oil and garnish with additional lemon juice, olive oil and basil or mint leaves.

Kimchi bibim guksu

A spicy cold noodle dish that’s perfect for a quick summer meal
A spicy cold noodle dish that’s perfect for a quick summer meal (Getty/iStock)

Bibim guksu, which means “mixed noodles” in Korean, is an adaptable, spicy cold noodle dish that’s perfect for a quick summer meal. For many Korean families, bibim guksu and samgyupsal, or grilled pork belly, is a go-to meal after long afternoons spent in the sun. Traditionally, bibim guksu does not include kimchi, but here it imparts a robust flavour with spicy and sour elements. Somyeon (thin wheat flour noodles) or soba are traditionally used, but angel hair pasta would work as well. You can double the sauce and use it for bibimbap in another meal.

By:Darun Kwak

Makes: 2 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

For the sauce:

100g kimchi, chopped into 1.5cm thick pieces, plus 60ml kimchi juice

3 tbsp gochujang

2 tbsp rice vinegar

1 tbsp sugar

1 tbsp soy sauce

1 tbsp sesame oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tsp roasted white sesame seeds

For the noodles:

170g somyeon (thin wheat flour noodles) or soba

Handful salad mix or leafy greens

60g julienned cucumber

30g julienned carrot

Perilla leaves, chopped (optional)

Gim (roasted seaweed sheets), crumbled or crushed (optional)

2 soft-boiled or hard-boiled eggs, halved and served chilled, warm or at room temperature, depending on your preference (optional)

Method:

1. Bring a pot of water to boil. While the water comes to a boil, prepare the sauce: in a small bowl, mix all the sauce ingredients. When adding the sesame seeds, crush them gently between the palms of your hands to release a deeper flavor. Stir sauce to combine, then set aside (makes 180ml).

2. Cook the noodles according to package directions, making sure not to overcook. Once the noodles are cooked, rinse thoroughly under cold water, to ensure they maintain a chewy consistency.

3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the noodles and the sauce. Mix well with clean hands. (This adds sohn mat, which is Korean for “the taste that comes from one’s hands” or “a homemade taste”).

4. Divide the mixed noodles between two bowls. Top with small piles of salad greens, cucumbers and carrots, plus perilla leaves, gim and eggs (if using).

© TheNew York Times

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