Scarlett Green, brunch review: The grown up Australian cafe

Down Under is responsible for our flat white and smashed avocado obsession, but it's not all about that as Rachel Hosie finds at this antipodean mini-chain's latest outpost

Rachel Hosie
Thursday 20 September 2018 17:57 BST
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Brunching out...

Perched in prime position in London’s Soho, Scarlett Green is the latest opening of the antipodean chain, Daisy Green.

Each of the nine Daisy Green branches in the capital has a slightly different feel, and Scarlett Green may be the coolest of the lot, with industrial grey warehouse walls and exposed plaster.

And that means, it’s Instagram friendly: marble tables, big plants and fresh roses in little milk bottles on each table.

Of course, there’s bottomless prosecco (£39.50 for two hours and one savoury and one sweet dish). Unlike some places, the bottle is left on each table so you can top yourself up as often as you like (like trusted grownups). Staff are even very good at conscientiously replenishing our bottle.

If you’d rather take things a little easier, there’s a little jug of freshly squeezed orange juice for you to make yourself a Buck’s Fizz.

I start with the corn and broccoli fritters (topped with a perfectly poached egg, runny yolk and all) which are so big I’m practically eating two veggie burgers.

Nothing better than a runny yolk
Nothing better than a runny yolk (Harvey Gorst)

My companion opted for aubergine fritters, which turned out not to be fritters at all but rather a half aubergine with a crisp crumb on top, served with creamy cashew butter and lots of sweet corn. It’s well cooked and also has that oh so perfectly poached topper.

For our sweet course, I go for the granola which was deliciously sticky and crunchy, bursting with dried cranberries and lots of lovely fresh berries and thick yoghurt too.

My companion couldn’t resist the legendary banana bread: it’s warm, squishy and delicious. It’s so dense it could be, for some people, a bit cloying. But, for us, it’s remedied by the lightness of the cream (even if that does sound a little indulgent).

Marble tables: always a good backdrop for Instagram
Marble tables: always a good backdrop for Instagram (Leyla Kazim)

The portions are all pleasingly large, but this feels necessary considering all the prosecco.

The food’s delicious, as it should be considering our Australian friends are so great at brunch culture. It’s a welcomed variety to your bog-standard brunch menu, but don’t worry, avocado toast is still on the menu.

4 Noel St, Soho, London W1F 8GB; 020 3653 2010; open daily; daisygreenfood.com/venues/scarlett-green

Brunching in...

Smoked haddock kedgeree, with a cheddar and chive sauce

In need of a breakfast recipe to cure your hangover and compliment a cuppa? We can sort you out, with this wholesome smoked haddock kedgeree recipe that is jam-packed with flavour.

Serves 4

4 smoked haddock fillets
300g basmati rice
300ml milk
4 eggs
1 large onion
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 bay leaves
1 chilli, cut into fine slices 
50g peas 
Handful torn up parsley
Vegetable oil

For the cheddar and chive sauce

60ml of milk 
60 ml of cream 
1 tbsp. of butter
1 tbsp. of flour
1 egg yolk
A tsp. of chives
A sprinkling of cinnamon
1 cup of finely grated cheddar cheese 
Salt and pepper, to season 

Heat oil in a large pan and add the onion, frying for five minutes. Add the turmeric and bay leaves, and fry for a further two minutes.

Add rice and 600ml of water to the pan and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and cover for ten minutes. Add in peas, and cook for a further two minutes.

Meanwhile, put the smoked haddock and bay leaves in a frying pan. Cover with the milk, and poach for ten minutes. Remove the haddock fillets from milk and cut into small pieces.

Bring a pan of water to the boil and add in the four eggs, then reduce to a simmer for five minutes. Cool by plunging into cold water.

To make your sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour, whisking for one minute. Combine the milk and cream, and add to the saucepan slowly, whisking until thick. Add in an egg yolk and cook for 30 seconds, on low heat.

Next, add in the cheese to the sauce mixture and stir. Add the cinnamon and season. Remove from the heat.

Once sauce is completed, peel the boiled eggs and cut into quarters. Combine the fish, eggs, rice and peas together. Add the sliced chilli and drizzle the cheddar and chive sauce over the top. Sprinkle a little parsley before serving.

Recipe from The Saucy Fish Co, available in Sainsbury's freezer aisle (thesaucyfishco.com)

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