Ruby Tandoh quits column due to ‘elitist’ nature of food culture
‘The stuff that makes the headlines again and again is toxic and elitist and supported by truly rotten foundations’
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Food writer and former Bake Off finalist Ruby Tandoh has announced her departure from her regular recipe column for The Guardian, citing the “toxic” nature of food culture as one of her reasons for doing so.
She also went into detail on Twitter highlighting the elitism that’s rife within the foodie sphere, as those with less money are often made to feel ashamed for being unable to afford costly, supposedly nutritious products.
“Little announcement: I’ve quit my Guardian recipe column! The circles of food hell are heinous,” she wrote.
“[Giles Coren] in the stinking depths, rich people slagging off convenience foods all around, professional fatphobes at every level and not a scruple in sight. I really tried, but I’m out.”
Tandoh carried on, explaining that while some of the high profile individuals in the industry do genuinely try to use their platform to spread positivity, others continue to perpetuate a “toxic and elitist” image of food culture that is “supported by truly rotten foundations.”
In a further tweet, the author outlined the most important lessons that she’s taken on since beginning her column following her appearance as a contestant on Bake Off in 2013.
Tandoh explained how, in her opinion, the majority of popularised food fads are simply old diets that have been rebranded and also noted that it’s important to focus on your social and emotional health as well as your physical state.
She highlighted the prevalence of fatphobia, ableism, classism and racism in food writing and also made a point of stating that processed foods aren’t always as damaging as they’re made out to be.
The writer made it clear that she’d reached the end of her tether trying to make a positive impact with her column, as she felt her efforts had become futile.
“As much as we all owe it to each other to do good in the world, I can’t shoulder this burden - it’s too big,” she wrote.
“I can’t fight and fight and fight only then to see my work ignored or co-opted; I can’t continue to throw myself into the path of every Food Issue like this!”
Tandoh finished the thread by revealing that she hasn’t ruled out the possibility of writing again in future, but at this point in time she can’t be certain.
“I’m done trying to fight a mouldy system from within,” she wrote.
Many have expressed their sadness over Tandoh's departure from the column, thanking her for the positive impact she's had on how people approach food and cooking.
This isn’t the first time the 25-year-old has been outspoken on a topic that she feels passionate about.
In February, Tandoh became embroiled in an online altercation with ex-reality TV star Lucy Watson about veganism.
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